I think this "forced break-in" is what you need. It "warps" the discs thus makng them appear "thicker" which in turn allows your pedal to grab sooner/lower...I bet if you do this excercise, it might be better?

 

Sean if you put your car in the garage when you do this, it will make you cool and add 15 HP to the rear wheels. Trust me on this. Just face the car in, and close to the wall when you try it. I promise.

 

i said this long time ago!!!!!! i told you guys put it in 2nd or third and launch the car!! it will make the disc warp a little do that 4- 5 times and should be good!! man if you guys only listen before!! mine feels like 95% stock now

 

You have a triple disc?

 

yea i put it in 2 months ago. The best thing i ever did! hands down..

Me and Todd from Proto talked about the breakin procedure for hours till i got it perfect.
He actually siad the fastest way was to use a trailer and Load it on ion 3rd gear slipping it and do that 3-4 times.
I guess you can use a really steap hill?

 

the only reason i bought it was because of DR_JITSU he siad straight out.. "It holds like a Mother!! but its a ***** to drive!"

And i love it!

 

I had zero issues with my ATS clutch. I actually let other people drive my car to see how well it works. I think Chris (roadsterdoc) can shed more light on his driving experience. I did not break my clutch in, I allowed Akram to do it so I can not say what is was like before he broke it in. I hope this helps.
Robert

 

Also for those of you with true carbon based clutches (ATS is Hybrid) you also will need to do a quick slippage on a dyno before tuning if the car hasn't been driven prior. Carbon with no heat = a bit of slippage but it literally take less than a few blocks of normal driving to get it to operating temperature.

 

Wes,
I just got my ATS triple carbon from VR. I need to send it to Carbonetics in Cali to have it further modified. Any other recommendation of breaking it in? Not quite sure what you mean about slippage on dyno, can you be specific?

Art

 

This is something the Supra guys were doing 8 years ago when the RPS Carbon/Carbon first came out. I would NOT recommend doing this on a NON-Carbon clutch. You will have NO clue when enough is enough and can cause more wear than desired. On a Carbon unit, all you're doing is heating that Carbon up and making it grabbier...in the process helping to "break it in" a bit.
Peter

 

The carbonetics/ATS triple is actually not a true carbon/carbon material. It's carbon based impregnated with silicon and various other metals. One needs to be careful about overheating it, because while it does have carbon in it, it is still prone to warping and can be overheated. This clutch is rated to 700whp in a drag racing environment per Carbonetics specifications, if I recall from recent posts you're looking to exceed this rating by quite a bit ? You may be good for a bit, however as the clutch wears you are going to deal with significant wear problems as well a decreased engagement window, a characteristic common to these styles of clutches which use multiple plates while using the factory hydraulics which limit your flexibility for adjustment.

With a Carbon/Carbon unit, say you let your car do a complete cool down prior to dynoing it. The carbon/carbon grabs better with heat, so in order to get it to operating temperature (since it's strapped down and driving around the block is not an option) you need to use the dyno brakes to get a bit of heat in it, usually with a quick slip or two in third gear. Otherwise you'll see some nice spikes in your graph on the first pull. After the first pull the clutch will obviously have enough heat in it so the second one will work. Most wouldn't notice the dips, but when you're dynoing 1,000-1,500hp cars frequently these small steps have to be taken into account.

 

Wes which clutch do you have in your 24/18 car? How well does it hold the power & whats the engagement like?

 

In both of our cars we run the Tilton triple. There isn't a 996 I've ever heard of that exceeds the torque capacity of the clutch (1400tq) while remaining completely drivable in street duty in terms of clutch modulation and engagement point. The main reason being we anticipated making over 700whp (even on the K24/18gs) and wanted to upgrade to larger turbos down the road and frequently drag race without having to change the clutch. We've tested many different combinations and felt there was a big gap that needed to be filled so we developed something to fill the gap.

Most K24/18G cars and similar turbos can get away with the Clutchmasters Stage 3 and be very happy while remaining drivable in my opinion and be fine, if you're pushing past that the ATS/Carbonetics is the next step but the threshold of additional power is not much more based on manufactures ratings so guys running built engines or 30s or larger may overpower it.

 

Great Info Wes!! you have always been a world of knowledge on this board! Cheers!

 

Thanks for the info Wes.So the Clutchmasters stg 3 is close to the holding power of the ATS?