Pump/Meth vs Race Gas/Meth in MY car...
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Get some sticky tires and it will happen, very easily. The way you ride those bikes, some cooler weather and you are not too far from it
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What is a front diff worth on the used market? I have one too. Didn't really plan on sellng it in case I wanted to go back or sell the car but I am curious to know what they go for just in case... Anybody have a good idea on the trading value?
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I have no idea what they are worth. A buddy of mine retired and moved permanently to Mexico and I bought a bunch of his spare parts. The diff was one of them. I'd too like to know the value of that and a BUNCH of other stuff!
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We started out to do an AWD vs. RWD comparison, but as it turned out, after a few pulls, we realized my front dif was, and likely has always been, toast. How did we know? We made 3 pulls back to back, removed the drive shaft and made 3 more pulls making sure to duplicate all conditions. The difference between the runs was less than 5 horsepower!!! Kind of explains why I always got stuck in 3 inches of snow last year? Anyway, I always wanted to do a race gas tune, so, we took this opportunity, as the AWD test was spoiled. Since we had removed the drive shaft, we base lined the car on pump gas and meth and RWD. Then we drained all the pump gas and the (100%) meth tank and tuned with MS109 and 50/50 meth/water. (As a side note and from experience, we felt that race gas with 100% meth would greatly impact performance such as spool, so we went with 50/50 as we can’t disable the Aquamist system unless you want to run on waste gate, and I don’t.) We learned that we cannot run pump gas on my race tune, however, my pump gas-100% meth tune is only 20whp and 20wftlbs shy of my MS109 -50/50 tune. This is the case because I cannot get over 1.3-1.35 bar. My waste gates are maxxed out and my boost solenoid duty cycle is at 100%, if not higher. Obviously, we could achieve much better power numbers on race gas with more boost, we just can’t get there, with the parts we have. We could NOT get it to pull timing on the race tune. We kept adding timing, but made no more power. (Yes, we took the timing back out) It did pull 1-2 degrees on the pump tune. We feel that by adding a couple gallons of MS109 with the pump gas would likely get us to the race gas level of power as the timing retard was likely worth the 20hp gain. As of an hour ago, my car is officially RWD for now...
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I may be in the minority here, but i think the AWD portion of the TT is mostly non existent.
I challenge anyone to show me the front tires spinning on ANY surface, let alone dry.
Almost Zero
I challenge anyone to show me the front tires spinning on ANY surface, let alone dry.
Almost Zero
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That's what we set out to do, but failed as my dif is junk. I was expecting to see an extra 3-6% more power to the rear. As far as your question, you would see more power on the dyno, but on the road, you would likely not feel any improvement as you would STILL be turning all that front end stuff...
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Sorry it took so long, I had to go dig back into my car, as it's been a while since I wired it. Provided you have the HSF-1 kit, this is what I found: The green wire is the injector pulse wire. It goes to any injector wire at the ECU. I chose the brown w/green tracer as it was the first one I could get to, pin C2 on the ECU. Do not cut this br/gr wire, just solder the HSF green wire to it. In the control module the green wire goes to terminal "PWM IN", pin 17.
The HSF gray and white wires are the boost solenoid wires. Find Pin C4, this should be a white w/green tracer. CUT this wire about 3 inches from the ECU. Solder the gray wire onto the wire coming out of the ECU. Solder the white wire onto the other cut end. In the little black control module the gray and white wire should be on terminals 9+10, marked M-SW-1, M-SW-2. My car is a 2003, but I think the wiring should be the same. If you don't have a wiring diagram, PM me your email address and I will send it to you.
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Joined: Mar 2007
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Sorry it took so long, I had to go dig back into my car, as it's been a while since I wired it. Provided you have the HSF-1 kit, this is what I found: The green wire is the injector pulse wire. It goes to any injector wire at the ECU. I chose the brown w/green tracer as it was the first one I could get to, pin C2 on the ECU. Do not cut this br/gr wire, just solder the HSF green wire to it. In the control module the green wire goes to terminal "PWM IN", pin 17.
The HSF gray and white wires are the boost solenoid wires. Find Pin C4, this should be a white w/green tracer. CUT this wire about 3 inches from the ECU. Solder the gray wire onto the wire coming out of the ECU. Solder the white wire onto the other cut end. In the little black control module the gray and white wire should be on terminals 9+10, marked M-SW-1, M-SW-2. My car is a 2003, but I think the wiring should be the same. If you don't have a wiring diagram, PM me your email address and I will send it to you.
The HSF gray and white wires are the boost solenoid wires. Find Pin C4, this should be a white w/green tracer. CUT this wire about 3 inches from the ECU. Solder the gray wire onto the wire coming out of the ECU. Solder the white wire onto the other cut end. In the little black control module the gray and white wire should be on terminals 9+10, marked M-SW-1, M-SW-2. My car is a 2003, but I think the wiring should be the same. If you don't have a wiring diagram, PM me your email address and I will send it to you.
Last edited by bimmer81; Sep 2, 2009 at 10:02 PM.
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not as noticable as the LWFW alone, but I did see an improvement as I was likely turning all dead weight anyway.