i think joe and mark summed up best !the end!

 

Paulie one word comes to mind to describe Co Co (for those of you that don't know, that is Paulie's dog)

























****!!!!

 

Part of JoeTT's quote:

Regardless i think the Proto intake is another good way of "skinning the cat" so to speak and really is better suited for the purpose built high hp cars .As others have said the filter location is great for power but not so great for large tire setups and filter longevity.My 2 cents.

+1

My Proto Set-up was set-up all at once and may be considered 1st generation.
The only problem I had was rubbing on the hose clamps when I mounted GT2 wheels
with Pilot Sport Cups on my car at TX2K8. Clearance has been improved and Markski
has the right Idea with making it OVAL in places. Evoms has a killer set-up as well, very top notch. EPL has done amazing things with the stock set-up also.
Keep in mind that the filters in the fenderwells need cleaning/replacing, and
the sound of the blow off valves in the fenders is sublime.

Good luck

 

The rubbing is a concern, especially since I don't know anyone (well, except Kid GT2, who hasn't really driven his set up much) with this set up in a GT2.

 

Mine does not rub on the pipes any more! LOL, I have the Proto system but installed it like Markski's set up, so that did away with any rubbing, as for road dirt, its like that with any set up so whats the diffrence! The turbo's need to breath, I think you will notice a diffrence Sean, talk to Markski and see,
Good Luck with what ever you do.
Protomotives or Markskis are very well made.

 

hey doc... if you pressure test it you will know if its rubbing through ... if it does rub through the car will idle funny because its getting un-metered air(maf)

tim

 

good info, thanks.
Dennis

Could it be that at the 600-650 whp the evo tubing is good enough, and the hard pipe systems aren't necessary until the 800 whp levels?? Anyone else experience this.

Sean, if you are at this level is it really worth it over what you currently have which is not stock and is already top quality?

 

Tim,

I'm pretty sure the part that would tend to rub is the fresh air intake pipe with the filter on the end, which would not affect the metered air, but would introduce debris to the turbos, if it were to develop a hole. Chances are you would develop a flat before wearing through the metal pipe, however, if the wheel wore through the metal pipe, you would probably not know until your turbos had damage and the car was not running properly due to turbo damage.

There is also a risk of the pipe being hit from road debris like a stick or other object that is kicked up "just the right way" to catch the pipe and subsequently dislodge it from the turbo itself. With the close tolerance, it would not take much to get in between the tire and pipe to exert some severe force. If this were to happen, your turbos would be sucking rocks and dust into the motor until you were aware of it, which could be minutes, days or weeks, even. Also, if the filter ever came off for any reason, you would not know it, as it can not be seen without bumper removal. Again, you could end up driving around with unfiltered air for months without knowing it. IMO, these are a few things to consider with this style of intake and played a part in my going back to the OEM configuration. When I ran this style of intake, I did routine checks of the fresh air pipe and the turbo connection on a weekly basis.

 

an some of you with experience and photos of these different set ups post some photo's and diagrams of these set ups and locations? Both in the car and out?

 

EVOMS hard pipe kit installed




Protomotive kit installed




OEM intake, air box, diverter valves, cooling fan, etc. removed - diverters mounted on IC's and a lot of plumbing is re-worked. Replacement Ford MAF relocated to just before throttle body.

 

thanks John

 

Those intakes were were designed for my car on my dime.

 

I find this thread a little interesting.

Some motors make power others don't see a difference. If you start with the intake you are in trouble from the get go. If you happened to make power then you got lucky and found your weakest link.

If you don't know what your motor is flowing, then you won't have the slightest idea what volume you need to flow at the intake pipes. It is either sufficient or it isn't for the motor. If you don't know the flow of both then you are just guessing.

The only freebie/torque hp that you obtain is by routing the tubes away from heat sources along with using a material that does not absorb heat or become a heat sink. This really makes a difference.