Guess it's my turn for this failure.
Was showing my son the button with the car in the garage, and when he pushed it, the right side only raised up.

We tried cycling it a few times, but I could lift it by hand, but it would want to stay down at the bottom, even with the rt. side all the way up.

Anyone do a fixed wing conversion and have some hydraulics they want to get rid of?

Maybe time for an Aerokit decklid....?

Not in a huge hurry as I have clutch to do.... and it's just resting now.

 

==Maybe time for an Aerokit decklid....?==
JJ, you had it right. With good and honesty excuse.

 

I just noticed that bad107 has one for sale in the Automotive Parts & Accessories For Sale forum. Parts are in Houston, but he said he's willing to ship. Good luck.

 

Mine did the exact same thing. but was fixed this week. My son followed the directions for fixing it right here on the forum and it was working within 1 hr. He used that Lucas power steering fluid with leak seal that was recommended. Takes a little time, but now both sides come up equally and all it took was a little elbow grease and simple tools. When I first got the spoiler failure light, I started looking it up here and saw quotes of 1.5K to 2K$$$ and really started looking at GT2 wings. Then, we did a little research and found out that it's usually just needs a little hydraulic top off. Hopes this helps. Did you get the "spoiler failure" displayed in the menu?

Pretty simple operation...

John

 

Thanks much. I saw that, but he's higher for used hydro's than I've seen elsewhere. If I spent that much, I'd just buy the Aerokit wing/decklid.

 

Hey John. Thanks for your post.
As there are a number of issues that folks have posted about the wing, which repair post did you look at for your repair?

 

I actually have two sets for sale...

one is just the hydraulics and the other is a full decklid with hydraulics and wiring harness. Both are actually at VividRacingTx facilities in Houston but I am happy to ship either. I will PM you my number if interested.

Thanks!

 

I suspect he is referring to the following procedure:

"If the motor is running and the wing does not go up and down symmetrically, then the probable culprit is uneven (or insufficient) hydraulic fluid servicing in the two cylinders in the pump / motor assembly. That was the problem I had. Each cylinder has it's own fluid - - - there is no sharing or ability to "equalize" fluid between the cylinders and rams. If one of your cylinders has developed a slight leak over the years and now has a slightly lower amount of fluid than the other cylinder, the result will probably be a spoiler malfunction light. Tell tell signs of a fluid leak is fluid leaking out of the bottom weep holes of the rounded black plastic caps that snap on the bottom of the rams.

Here's how I "refilled" both of my cylinders. My disclaimer is that your results may vary, but this is a pretty simple closed hydraulic system so in reality there's not too much that can be screwed up.

Take the entire motor and ram assemblies out of the car. Yes, you have to remove the wing and lots of stuff from the deck lid to get this stuff off the car. You will need a relatively strong battery charger or other 12 VDC source to run the pump electric motor. Jumper cables from a batter will work if you can manage not to short the cables together.

Once everything's off the car and on the workbench, connect your power source to the electric motor leads to check the polarity. Depending on which way you connect the power, the rams will either go up or down. You want to start with the rams all the way down. With the rams all the way down and with the pump assembly held in a vertical position, carefully disconnect both of the hydraulic lines (one for each ram) on the end of the pump assembly. Make sure the lines are at the TOP of the pump assembly, and also note the proper orientation of the lines. Once you have the lines off, keep the disconnected lines held high so as not to let any fluid spill from the lines or rams. Now, while still holding the pump assembly vertically, in each of the holes of the pump assembly where you removed the banjo bolts from each ram hydraulic line, carefully fill each "hole" with suitable hydraulic fluid. I say "suitable" because in reality I don't have any idea what the Porsche spec hydraulic fluid actually is. I used hydraulic jack oil which is available at most automotive parts stores. I'm sure it's not Porsche spec, but it has worked well over the past year with no problems what-so-ever. If your hydraulic cylinders are low, each one will probably take several ounces. Fill each hole until fluid spills out.

Now carefully reattach each ram hydraulic line banjo bolt. If you've got each cylinder full, some fluid should weep out as you tighten up the banjo bolts. You'll find you either need an extra set of hands, or some type of a vice or clamp to hold everything vertically if you're working alone. Again, you don't want to let any fluid spill from the removed ram hydraulic line.

Now with everything back together, use your electrical power source and run the rams up and down several times. At first, one ram will probably slightly lag the other. If after a dozen times or so of running the rams up and down they are still uneven in their travel, the ram that is lagging is probably not quite full. This is what happened to me. I had to undo the banjo bolt of the ram that started to move just slightly after the other ram had moved, and add just a tad more fluid to it's cylinder. After I did so, everything started moving symmetrically.

There is another DIY that talks about "bleeding" the system by slightly loosening each of the banjo bolts and then applying power to the motor. My guess is that if you have air in the system, and you keep everything in a vertical orientation such that the banjo bolts are the highest points in the system, and if you keep everything held in this position long enough so that any air in the system can rise to the top (where the banjo bolts are), that this method may in fact work. However, I didn't have to do it so can't comment on its validity. However, if you have trapped air in the system, you'll need to find a way to get it out as air will surly cause problems in a hydraulic system.

Once I was satisfied that everything was moving up and down properly & symmetrically , I cleaned everything up and bolted everything back in the deck lid. Since doing this, I have not had a single spoiler fail warning light. If you've got everything in had to do the job (including the ability to remove the rear wing), it's no more than a couple hour job".

 

Yes, that was it! Thanks a bunch for helping us out also...

John