Would this brake change be the same for a C4S? My brakes look similar and have sensors. Also, in step #9 where the caliper is wired up out of the way with one pad remaining intact, there are 4 cylindrical parts/pieces attached to the caliper body ... are these "wear indicators" or something? Do they eventually touch the rotor when the pad gets too low? From what I see in the pictures, the old pads looked to have had quite a bit of material left on them ... why replace them or is the sensor to warn you far too early? Lastly, my parking brake doesn't work so well ... I have to pull it up quite a bit in order to function. Could this be the pads are worn or the cable is out of adjustment? Any ideas ... thanks for any input.

 

One more thing, I regularly check my brakes visually and sometimes when I want a good cleaning I remove the wheels and remove brake dust with a scrubber and chemical wash to get them looking new again. Aside from that, one member mentioned turning off the sensors so no CEL will ever appear. Is this done by connecting to wires to complete the circuit so the computer forever thinks the pads are "new"? I know this is how it's done a some VW's with sensors in the pads, but unsure if it's the same for Porsche.

 

infact I brought a box of exam gloves home from work but go dirty before I had a chance to put them on!

 

brakes I believe are the same on the C4S- you'll be able to use this DIY. the round cylindrical things inside the caliper is the caliper pistons. On the rear set, the round spiders pop into them. On the front, the vibration dampers fit in them. my rear pads had some material left but since I was getting dirty, just decided to do it all...not sure about the parking brakes- maybe others can chime in. regards

 

if you just pull the sensors out of the pad,they will never trip the circuit- no need to rewire it.

 

WOw! Perfect write-up with pics for mechanical challenge people like me! Thank you very much!

 

Thanks for the info. It seems straight forward and I have a complete set of tools. My only concern is still the parking brake ... it operates like a drum system and I hate replacing brake shoes.

 

Thanks for the write up and pics from another DIY'r.

 

Great job! Thanks for taking the time to put up pics. By the way, how did you clean your camera?

 

I'm at the same point with parking brake. Handle comes nearly all the way vertical before it engages. Any words of wisdom for
1. How to adjust the parking brake with what's supposed to be a tensioning screw and
2. If that doesn't work, how to replace the shoes.

Thanks for the excellent DIY on the brakes.

Keith

 

I just ordered OEM brake pads all round plus sensors from Pelican Parts for 1999 996 for approx $250 delivered. Thanks to the great photos from previous poster and explanation showing spiders holding back the pad from being removed without first removing brake caliper. (I wondered why I was struggling until I found his posting). I will attempt the job myself when I recieve my OTC low profile trolley jack and stands this coming week.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9DpC0lXHP5o
Here is a great video showing the handbrake adjuster and how to get to it. You maybe able to insert a screw driver through the holes in the disc without removing the disc. If not then you would have to follow the video. It all looks pretty simple.

 

I should imagine that the parking or emergancy brake shoes would never need replacing as they will never wear out due to the fact that the car is standing still (or should be when the shoes are pulled into the inside of the rotar disc). Fully relaese your hand brake from inside the car. Click the adjuster all the way to the right untill it stops, try to turn the disc, (it should be unmovable at this point) then take the adjuster back 4 clicks and the hand break should be set on that side. Repeat the operation on the other rear brake and BINGO. The hand brake should be engaging about a third of its travel inside the car. Should it be needed, there is a way of taking up any slack cable from inside the center lock box but I would have to see a youtube video before attempting that part.

 

QUOTE
15- pop in spiders back into rear pad caliper pistons and push pistons all the way in so as to have space to slip pads in.
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I am in the process of changing pads and I am just about to insert the new pads, with the brake sensors attached, back into the re attached caliper.

One question, Did you add a small dab of high melting point grease or some kind of holding glue on spiders or the back of the new pad so they attach themselves to the new pads when the brake pedal is applied?
When I was removing the spiders from the old pads I noticed a couple of trace dabs of something. What I dont know. This was holding the spider back to the old pad as i pried them free with a wood chisel. By the way the pistons are slighly differant sized diameters the lower being larger than the upper piston in the caliper. Most trackers I believe dont bother to put the spiders back in place. I wouldnt like my work to scream out that it was done by a DIY bloke when I am braking. LOL

 

Great write up