Good advice... I just never gave it the YANK to see if it would release.
Done other non p-cars, and in many cases, the driveshaft hub is nutted.
Thanks for setting me straight. Would rather not have done and torqued/loctited those bolts as they took some extra time.
Oh, and you may want to wrap the pretty calipers to keep them from being scratched when you hang them...

 

Thanks again guys for all the help keep it coming!!!

 

Reviving this thread - does anyone have torque specs for all of the suspension bolts (control arms, tie rods, upper shock mount nuts, and the shock pinch bolt)?

 

I wanted to revive this thread for anyone considering this DIY project.

It is not difficult to do at all, just time consuming to avoid damaging anything.

Couple things to note...

In my particular installtion, I separated the LCA and tie rod from the axle hub. Then, I used my pry bar to pull down the LCA to free the axle hub from the ball joint. I then moved the axle hub towards the FRONT of the car. This allowed me to rotate the axle hub over such that the strut was laying parallel to the ground. This allowed me to easily swing the strut out of the wheel well and remove it with ease. I did not need to remove the axle hub, or the LCA, or anything else for that matter.

Once I figured out the procedure on the driver's side, I was able to remove the strut from the passenger side in 20 minutes.

On the passenger side, you could move the axle hub to the front or the back of the car and rotate the strut out for removal.

On the driver's side, you must move it towards the front of the car I found because the headlight adjuster that connects to the LCA prevents you from moving the axle hub far enough back for rotation. Moving it forward gives you plenty of clearance.

One may want to mark the alignment position of the camber plates in the mounting slots in the body prior to your install. This will help you get the new suspension "close" to what you had prior so that you can drive it to an alignment shop without tearing up your tires.

One last thought...

On the rear setup; be sure to set the proper height of the swaybar link mounting plate BEFORE you install the coilover into the car. I installed mine assuming I could just adjust them once on the car. I found out the axles are too close and will not allow for a full rotation. It's easy to just set outside the car before you install. I think you could unbolt the coilover from the lower mount and angle away from the axle for enough clearance to fully rotate, but I didn't even try. I just pulled them and measured it.

Hope this helps.

Chris.