Coilover install Help!! 996tt
Can anyone help with the install instructions for a 2001 996tt H&R coilover setup? Also it looks like a need a special ball joint seperator tool for the front of the car. Does anyone have an easy trick to remove the ball joint and also I started to try and remove the front axle bolt which I can't even budge with an impact gun. It is a 32mm nut and I'm thinking it needs to be removed (maybe use heat) The rears look pretty easy, but any help would be much appreciated!!!
This may help a little.
I didn't take off the large nut on axle end, but the 6 on the inboard side...
I also made a tool from a balljoint tool at NAPA.
See this link of my Bilstein/Mode install.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...dan-vivid.html
I didn't take off the large nut on axle end, but the 6 on the inboard side...
I also made a tool from a balljoint tool at NAPA.
See this link of my Bilstein/Mode install.
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...dan-vivid.html
Many will not appreciate what i'm saying but if you are looking for an easy trick ...
... you can use a rubber hammer and give a strong shot to the lower part of the ball joint, from back of the car to the front !
It will come out very easily as the ball joint is conical.
It would not come out even with an impact gun if you should shot directly the threaded part !
... you can use a rubber hammer and give a strong shot to the lower part of the ball joint, from back of the car to the front !
It will come out very easily as the ball joint is conical.
It would not come out even with an impact gun if you should shot directly the threaded part !
No hammer please. Go to Harbor Frieght, Napa or Auto part stores. Look for ball joint seperater. It is not much. I had mine from Harbor F for less than $10. It will work with Lower control arms & Toe con arm. Good stuff to have if you want to often diy. (Any doubt, look pics in jjbravo link.) You might need to grind its lip thinner to fit in Lower C arm joint.
You don't need to remove the axle nut, I never do, it just makes it a little tougher if you are doing it by yourself. You can push down the control arm and lift the hub assembly off the ball joint (after separating it with a tool) and go forward with it. From there you can swing and just squeeze the strut out the rear of the wheel well, and then pull the strut out of the hub assembly. Get a good ball joint tool for separating the tie rod and ball joint.
You don't need to remove the axle nut, I never do, it just makes it a little tougher if you are doing it by yourself. You can push down the control arm and lift the hub assembly off the ball joint (after separating it with a tool) and go forward with it. From there you can swing and just squeeze the strut out the rear of the wheel well, and then pull the strut out of the hub assembly. Get a good ball joint tool for separating the tie rod and ball joint.
Anyway, even if i completely agree with the "no hammer, please", he was asking for an easy trick and if you can't use a ball joint separator the only way to separate it from the hub assembly is the hammer.
My taper fit on the lower ball joint was on.... HARD.
I used the tool. The separator puts pressure down on the taper. You don't just keep tightening till it pops... you'll run the risk of stripping.
What you do is put pressure on the taper with the tool and the nut backed off a few threads worth. Then whack the knuckle with a hard plastic mallet, and it'll pop off. Works like a champ.
Oh, and doing the axle on swap and rotating the assembly forward and out... watch out for your fender paint as the strut bearing could scratch.
Good luck.
I used the tool. The separator puts pressure down on the taper. You don't just keep tightening till it pops... you'll run the risk of stripping.
What you do is put pressure on the taper with the tool and the nut backed off a few threads worth. Then whack the knuckle with a hard plastic mallet, and it'll pop off. Works like a champ.
Oh, and doing the axle on swap and rotating the assembly forward and out... watch out for your fender paint as the strut bearing could scratch.
Good luck.
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No hammer please. Go to Harbor Frieght, Napa or Auto part stores. Look for ball joint seperater. It is not much. I had mine from Harbor F for less than $10. It will work with Lower control arms & Toe con arm. Good stuff to have if you want to often diy. (Any doubt, look pics in jjbravo link.) You might need to grind its lip thinner to fit in Lower C arm joint.
Thanks for the help guys!! This info is much needed, but If anyone has a link to install instructions that would be great. I have only found 993tt and 997tt instructions, but to my suprise no 996tt. I wonder why?



I found one for a regular 996's, but nothing for the 996tt.
Help
The problem with the 996na is that it is rear wheel drive and the 996tt is all wheel drive. There is a big differance with the installation of the two. Mostly with the front removal of the shock assembly. Anyone else with any info will be greatly appreciated.
Most the shops around me want ~$1,000 for installation.
Try it but if it is too thick, grind it. I have quality brand but too thick to slip between boot&joint. So I went out buy cheap one at Harbor F and grind to make it thinner.
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