^^^ Yup thats it!

 

did you get the 1350#/kg setup?

 

Multidisk for sure! Way more surface area than any single disk means requiring less pressure weight and once broken in ought to drive well too. I cannot speak to any of the multidisks for this car specifically but I did have to break in one I had on another car so if initial feel is too grabby bear it and give it time to break in before switching.

 

Mine has an 11 inch flywheel, 9 inch clutch plates at weights only 11.2/kg. Very light!

I used the following parts:

964RS Clutch Bearing(94411608000)
964RS Guide tube(sleeve) (95011681330)
964RS flywheel bolts 9 of them (92810215101)
964RS pilot bearing (93110211100)

Contact:

YUKA KATO
ACROSS USA, INC.
1480 Beachey Place
Carson, CA 90746
TEL:310-635-3555
FAX:310-635-9171

 

Good advice. I took it easy for the first 800 miles and it still got better and better after 2000 miles. Now, 4900 miles and two years later still a great clutch.

 

this description is what i was referring to Robert the clamp load in the clutch

ATS Metal Triple Clutch Kits for the 996

ATS has released a newly designed metal triple clutch for your vehicle. Similar to other ATS metal clutches, the newly designed performance clutch handles greater torque / horse power and can enhance your driving experience for your tuned vehicle. This product is offered with two clamping rates 1,100kg and 1,350kg. The triple clutch is rated at 700 hp with a 1,100kg clamping rate and 850 hp with the 1,350kg clamping rate clutch.


hrm seems i might be mixing up the metal clutch from ATS and the Carbonetics triple carbon clutches

 

OK, got it. If the 850HP is 1000tq rated, that is what I have. I purchased mine in May of 2008 and I know it was not a production clutch but some prototype. You can tell if you look at the picture I posted. Not nice and new, but tested before it was sent to me. I remember Yuka telling me it was the third one they produced and not in production yet.

 

I would have to say some form of the tilton carbon or metallic if you want to save some coin.

 

The problem with the Tilton is that we tend to compare apples to oranges(a clutch will not last as long in a 2000hp car as it would in a 800hp vehicle). I will back Wes up on this one. It is the only clutch that will hold 1600rwhp and drive smoothly on the street. This is not to discount the CM in any way, shape, or form(I have a CM in my car), but until they can prove it will hold that type of power and still be extremely drivable, I will stick with the Tilton for high hp applications.

Is there a 1000rwhp+ Porsche with the twindisc Clutchmasters yet? It would be nice to have another proven alternative to the Tilton.

Justin

 

+1

Joetwint, Jags, myself, and a few others run the Tilton setup triple disk setup with over 850rwhp and have had 0 problems with it. Like I said before it is the BEST driving clutch I've ever had. I HATED my Clutchmaster single disk, granted I didn't have the GT2 delete, it drove like my old supercharged 98 Cobra!

 

Powel have you driven a triple disc Carbon ATS? If so how would you compare the 2? I have the ATS and have 0 issues but cannot slip it like a stock set up.

 

I've never driven the ATS setup. I can slip my Tilton like a champion if I want to. That's why they use them in the fastest 6speed cars in the world.

Corey if you seriously ever get a chance to compare the 2, do so for all of us. If I get to I will for sure. I just know after the MANY clutches we (Matt and I) have had over the years, this is the BEST driving one. Even better than Matt's Mcleoud Dual Disk before he added the Ameba lining.

 

Thanks Powell, Is it still a on and off feel?

 

Honestly my Clutchmaster Single Disk was. This one drives like a stock clutch. It's VERY easy to modulate leaving a stop light, etc..

 

I have a highly modified ATS clutch. Regular comes with 900 plate, then upgraded one 1330 plate, I have the 2000 plate. Only made in Japan and not marketed in US yet. Puts all 1000whp to the ground with no issues. Tilton is just one bad *** clutch too if you are interested to get the accumulator delete at the same time. True you will be paying high $$$ up front but rebuild is cheap.