PSS9 Installation Advice
PSS9 Installation Advice
I'm planning on installing my PSS9's over the weekend. (Merry XMas to me.) Any last minute tips from DIYourselfers or the installation shops that have installed these? I've done my Mini and a friend's E46 M3 so I don't think I'll have any big problems but there are always a few gotchas.
As far as the amount of lowering...I don't want to go that much because of scraping issues. My son's new preschool has an evil driveway that I know will eat my front lip for breakfast after the install.
I'm thinking about 1/2 to 3/4" lower in the rear and about 1 to 1 1/4" lower in the front. I want it to look more level and be able to get -1.5 degrees of camber in the front. Any comments? Where's a good starting point for the threaded collars?
Also, do you think I should wait for the spings to settle a bit before corner balancing and realignment? If so, how long?
Thanks!
As far as the amount of lowering...I don't want to go that much because of scraping issues. My son's new preschool has an evil driveway that I know will eat my front lip for breakfast after the install.
I'm thinking about 1/2 to 3/4" lower in the rear and about 1 to 1 1/4" lower in the front. I want it to look more level and be able to get -1.5 degrees of camber in the front. Any comments? Where's a good starting point for the threaded collars?
Also, do you think I should wait for the spings to settle a bit before corner balancing and realignment? If so, how long?
Thanks!
Unless you have the ball joint and tie rod end extraction tools you may have a difficult time with removing the front struts. Also, the torx tool for holding the front lower control are ball joint in place as you loosen or tighten the 18mm nut is sometimes neccesary (30% of the time). You may also find it difficult to remove and reinstall the front drive shaft nut without a high torque/air volume impact and/or long breaker bar. Also of note is the reinstalation of the rear upper coilover setting adjuster. It takes a very small allen (2mm i think) and is very delicate and easilly overtorqued and positioning the adjuster **** level with the preloaded ball can be a bit of a hassel.
These notes are of course on the assumption that this IS a TT996. If you are mechanically inclined and have a decent selection of tools you'll probably have no trouble but i would reccomend that you have a trusted Porsche service shop do the work (independent or dealer).
As for the settings for ride height, the factory specs are based on predetermined pickup points from the chasis to a flat, level floor surface and are found in the factory workshop manual. These measurements are in mm's and are respective to 996,996row, turbo, row, gt3, gt2 etc and all have differences so you need to determine what factory ride height you want as the measurements front to rear determine the vehicles rake and that needs to be correct if you want decent handling characteristics. Seth.
These notes are of course on the assumption that this IS a TT996. If you are mechanically inclined and have a decent selection of tools you'll probably have no trouble but i would reccomend that you have a trusted Porsche service shop do the work (independent or dealer).
As for the settings for ride height, the factory specs are based on predetermined pickup points from the chasis to a flat, level floor surface and are found in the factory workshop manual. These measurements are in mm's and are respective to 996,996row, turbo, row, gt3, gt2 etc and all have differences so you need to determine what factory ride height you want as the measurements front to rear determine the vehicles rake and that needs to be correct if you want decent handling characteristics. Seth.
Originally posted by Porsche Tech
Unless you have the ball joint and tie rod end extraction tools you may have a difficult time with removing the front struts. Also, the torx tool for holding the front lower control are ball joint in place as you loosen or tighten the 18mm nut is sometimes neccesary (30% of the time). You may also find it difficult to remove and reinstall the front drive shaft nut without a high torque/air volume impact and/or long breaker bar. Also of note is the reinstalation of the rear upper coilover setting adjuster. It takes a very small allen (2mm i think) and is very delicate and easilly overtorqued and positioning the adjuster **** level with the preloaded ball can be a bit of a hassel.
These notes are of course on the assumption that this IS a TT996. If you are mechanically inclined and have a decent selection of tools you'll probably have no trouble but i would reccomend that you have a trusted Porsche service shop do the work (independent or dealer).
As for the settings for ride height, the factory specs are based on predetermined pickup points from the chasis to a flat, level floor surface and are found in the factory workshop manual. These measurements are in mm's and are respective to 996,996row, turbo, row, gt3, gt2 etc and all have differences so you need to determine what factory ride height you want as the measurements front to rear determine the vehicles rake and that needs to be correct if you want decent handling characteristics. Seth.
Unless you have the ball joint and tie rod end extraction tools you may have a difficult time with removing the front struts. Also, the torx tool for holding the front lower control are ball joint in place as you loosen or tighten the 18mm nut is sometimes neccesary (30% of the time). You may also find it difficult to remove and reinstall the front drive shaft nut without a high torque/air volume impact and/or long breaker bar. Also of note is the reinstalation of the rear upper coilover setting adjuster. It takes a very small allen (2mm i think) and is very delicate and easilly overtorqued and positioning the adjuster **** level with the preloaded ball can be a bit of a hassel.
These notes are of course on the assumption that this IS a TT996. If you are mechanically inclined and have a decent selection of tools you'll probably have no trouble but i would reccomend that you have a trusted Porsche service shop do the work (independent or dealer).
As for the settings for ride height, the factory specs are based on predetermined pickup points from the chasis to a flat, level floor surface and are found in the factory workshop manual. These measurements are in mm's and are respective to 996,996row, turbo, row, gt3, gt2 etc and all have differences so you need to determine what factory ride height you want as the measurements front to rear determine the vehicles rake and that needs to be correct if you want decent handling characteristics. Seth.
As far as ride height, I realize the the ride height is measured from specified points, but I don't see why I can't be anywhere within the range of RoW and X73, and not exactly on those settings. As long as I can get the correct alignment settings.
Thanks for the response.
Last edited by JakeMate; Dec 23, 2004 at 09:25 PM.
Here's a previous thread that gives some great installation pics and instructions:
Install Help
Does the Turbo's AWD change the technique at all? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Install Help
Does the Turbo's AWD change the technique at all? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I found a post on Funcars discussing what a PITA the install is on a turbo. You might PM the guy to find out more. If you decide to proceed ( I hope you do) please let us know how it goes.
Thanks
PSS9 install
Thanks
PSS9 install
It looks like the difficult part is the fronts on a TT. From what Porshe Tech said, and from the link that Dr. T provided, it looks like the AWD makes the fronts more difficult than a C2.
Can anyone elaborate on exactly what has to be loosened/disconnected in order to allow the strut to swing out or slide out of the carrier?
Can anyone elaborate on exactly what has to be loosened/disconnected in order to allow the strut to swing out or slide out of the carrier?
Trending Topics
That's correct, the TT and C4S fronts are more difficult/time consuming to replace than the C2 cars because you can't just remove the fasteners, push down on the control arm and slide the strut out the top of the hub carrier. On the TT, C4S the hub carrier is designed differently, is larger and beefier and the front drive axle locates through the carrier/bearing assy. So the carrier has to be unfastened from the lower ball joint and tie rod ends and the nut for the drive shaft must come off.
As for the ride height i mentioned earlier, i was refering to PSS9's which are widely adjustable. The X73 option is a fixed height strut with springs that predetermine the ride height so no measurements are neccesary.
As for the ride height i mentioned earlier, i was refering to PSS9's which are widely adjustable. The X73 option is a fixed height strut with springs that predetermine the ride height so no measurements are neccesary.
I remember reading those posts. I don't want it that low anyways. X73 height is probably good.
Thanks guys for all the great info. I might have my shop do it now because it looks like there are some special tools required.
Thanks guys for all the great info. I might have my shop do it now because it looks like there are some special tools required.
The ball joint tool can be had for $150 from http://www.continentalimports.com/porsche_part.html
part number 9560
Performance Products also used to carry it. You can also get it from a dealer.
As people have reported the fronts are the hard part. If you disconnect the drive shaft from the front transmission you can then depress the control arm sufficiently to swing the top of the strut out of the wheel well. You can then lift the wheel carrier off of the ball joint on the control arm and remove the whole assembly from the car.
part number 9560
Performance Products also used to carry it. You can also get it from a dealer.
As people have reported the fronts are the hard part. If you disconnect the drive shaft from the front transmission you can then depress the control arm sufficiently to swing the top of the strut out of the wheel well. You can then lift the wheel carrier off of the ball joint on the control arm and remove the whole assembly from the car.
i think lucent charges around 400-500 for the install but it comes with 2 alignements one after the install then one again after a week or so after the suspension/springs settle in..
they do great work
they do great work
Originally posted by Dr. T
I found a post on Funcars discussing what a PITA the install is on a turbo. You might PM the guy to find out more. If you decide to proceed ( I hope you do) please let us know how it goes.
Thanks
PSS9 install
I found a post on Funcars discussing what a PITA the install is on a turbo. You might PM the guy to find out more. If you decide to proceed ( I hope you do) please let us know how it goes.
Thanks
PSS9 install
Another BIG thing to watch out for is when you manage to swivel the strut out from under the wheel well be VERY careful not to pull too hard or out too far as it will pull the front half shaft out far enough to break the very small retainer clip and start leaking transmission fluid (ask me how I know
) Luckily it was caught almost immediately otherwise it could have caused serious damage..If your car is a non all-wheel drive I'd do it myself in a heart-beat. If it's an all-wheel drive TT or C4S I'd think long and hard if it's worth going through the effort.
BTW, I love the new suspension! Car looks great and handles as god intended Porsches to handle.





