Sorry but I don't support internet brands.. they are the cancer of the internet...
Mike

 

Looking foward to pics. You have some of the best write ups on this site.

 

I am also looking forward to see the pictures but, Mike, is it possible to point (arrows...) what is the dogbone, Toe links and Tarred Lockout plates, RSS Thrust bushings, RSS Thrust bushings, front upper strut monoballs. I feel bad asking you that but it would be, for me (may be other in the dark like me), a very good introduction to suspension parts. Thanks....

 

I too look forward to being further educated.
Thanks in advance.

 

Sorry but I don't support internet brands.. they are the cancer of the internet...
Mike

 

Sorry but I don't support internet brands.. they are the cancer of the internet...
All of this content is on renntrack.com

 

Thanks for the pics. Very good info. Eccentric adjustment are completely eliminated in this upgrade?

 

Mike
What a great write up! Thanks for the time and effort you put forth on this forum.
Robert

 

Rep points!!!!

 

Sorry but I don't support internet brands.. they are the cancer of the internet...

Renntrack.com for the real content on this thread... Chuck, really, don't bother PMing me... I don't care and yes I'm breaking the "rules"... Lions and tigers and bears oh my!
Mike

 

Great info and write up! When you changed the thrust bushing in the rear lower control arm did you also replace the factory end rubber bushing to a mono ball bushing?

In the picture of the adjuster cam is that stock or does it come with after market rear toe links?

If you were to do this in stages how would you go about replacing these parts from most important to least important, I'm guessing rear toe links would be first.

Sorry for all the questions Mike, I've been try to figure out which factory rubber pieces are the most important to replace for track use.

 

James, the adjuster cam is the stock unit the lock plates replace.

In stages, I think it's very important to follow the driver's education process...

Stock suspension, I'd do Swaybar, endlinks and rear toelinks/lock plates. From there, as the driving improves, tire wear will be come an issue. Once you start killing tires, and getting moved up into the intermediate group, you need to make a decision on coil overs...

If the car is going to be used as a serious street/ Track car, then you really need to decide... I personally don't think the off the shelf PSS9s/ 10s are suitable for a full on track car, and having them revalved will put the cost into a range more competitive with JIC and other mid-level enthusiast coil overs...

If you're fully committed to doing coil overs, I say save your money and do JRZ/MOTON/OHLINS! At that time, I'd consider dogbones/GT3 control arms and the bushings. I may add the subframe bushings, but haven't committed that far just yet...

And my personal opinion is that you have to corner balance these cars to get them "right" in the handling department. And of course, a GREAT alignment guy helps, too!
Mike

 

Nice work. Let us know how she drives when done.

 

Gonna be a bit harder to wrap up... I worked on the passenger side thrust bushing this afternoon for two hours... It's not budging... Gonna have to figure this one out... Heat isn't working...

Mike

 

Mike with pulling all of this rubber is the car going to ride much rougher or vibrate the wheel much? Just wondering since my car is likely destined for nearly street use only and if I swap anything what should it be? I have coil overs - PS10 I think but again street driven so I think it's fine. Wouldn't mind a little more road feel but yearly inspections and some of the hassle that monoballs can bring isn't thrilling me...