As I have yet to put mine on, it would be fair to say that if I do 90% highway driving (on nice highways mind you) I should be okay?

 

So long as your highway does not include 1" + expansion slots, bowling gutter trenches, and spare-tire-sized holes... you should be fine If you've got smooth roads, and especially if you do most of your driving on the highway, you'll appreciate the highspeed stability.

 

Wonderful. This is the south. We don't have to worry about expansion slots.

 

Guys.....sorry I'm late to this thread but.....don't think you can take those GT2 #s straight over to the Turbo......you'd have incredible rake going there.....dif rear measure point on the GT2.

BTW......definately not trying to sell H&R stuff but didn't see em mentioned.....I've used em for some time on other cars.....& IMHO nothing wrong with the current coil-overs (especially in combo w/anti-sways & adjustable DLs).....see Mike at AWE.
I've had this car at several dif heights and messed w/settings for a couple yrs........fine as a daily (for me).....great track car (well north of 150).

Just my $.02

 

If you read the instructions with the pss9's
You have a window of 10mm adjustment in the rear, and a 20mm window of adjustment in the front. This is predetermined by bilstein. I set them up at the bottom of the window in the rear, and in the middle at the front. this gives you +/- 10mm at the front for personal preference. I try to achieve a 1 degree rake from rear to front. it makes the car look good, and you dont run the chance of bottoming out.
The popping sound in the front end , referred to in this thread is due to someone not paying attention to their work. It is the sway bar drop link contacting the hub carrier, near the pinchbolt. Correct installation, and a 5mm
spacer under the top pin of the drop link will cure this. The popping doesnt occur on all cars, wether turbo or C4's, I think there is enough deviation from casting to casting there maybe enough excess material that this occurs about 50% of the time. If you want to know how FVD/PSS9's compare to others suspensions out there, read the " Twin Turbo Shootout , Driveability" writeup.
Everyone that has had me install the pss9 setup raves about it.
Peace , Jay Putnam

 

Ok so if I got PSS9s can i drop the car so its cool looking but not die at high speeds. I do drive fast meaning 120-170 on a regular basis, will the bump stops murder me? Does the manule that comes with the schocks explain the settings?

 

I have the PSS9's and AutoX the car hard. Occasionally lift a front wheel on hard fast turns only. I don't see how you could ever hit your bumpstops at high speed. I run 150+ regularly with no problems.

If you are a track junkie and you have plenty of cash to spare the JRZ are better, that being said, the Bilsteins are a close second everywhere else and cost 1/3!

Here's pic of my car lowered to GT3 specs

 

Wow, you run 150+ at AutoX's? I want to move to your area, that sounds terrific!

 

My pss9s were installed about 3 years ago, and after 30K miles- no problems... must say that the install was done by Orbit Racing in FL. a GT CUP race team.
Great for the money

 

I have run the JRZ Single Adjustables on a few cars and they work very well............. And since you can charge the canister pressures you can dial in the ride you want.... They are a bit more than a set of PSS 9s but then again you pay for what you get.....
The JRZ's are single adjustable but the shock is fully rebuildable.

The Moton Club Sports are very nice also, But some guys dont like to deal with the remote canisters, I have these ( Moton Race ) on our GT2 and they work like no other.. They are awesome!!!!!!!!!!!

 

fwiw, I have had the H&R coilovers for awhile now and have no bump stop issues, no problems at all. I have mine set slightly lower than the GT2 spec. Very compliant on road and track. Actually felt smoother on the street than the stock with out all the sway.

H&R coilovers seems to have taken a back seat when all the hype with the PSS9's were introduced.

Drove my buddies turbo when he had his PSS9's installed and noticed the pogoing issues that Ken has talked about. I just thought the adjustment setting were too stiff. later, When I asked him about the settings he mentioned that it was just a slight difference and that he couldn't really tell the diff on the street unless he went to full stiff. By the way it felt, I thoght it was set on full stiff.?!

I think the H&R is a great set up for the money with out going over too board. Most of my miles are mainly canyon and track driven. While, H&R coilovers are'nt in the same league as the Motons or JRZ they are great for the 99.9% of the time. I wouldn't want to kill the streetability of my turbo. You will lose street compliance with those other set ups.

Now if the turbo was going to be my main track car the Moton, JRZ would be a consideration.

 

Well now I am completely confused. It seems there are problems with all the coilovers. All I want is slightly better handling and reduction of the wheel gap. And as Stephen said, the Chicago roads are the WORST I have ever experienced. So................which coilovers should I get? How low can you actually go with the PSS-9's without hitting the bump stops? Are the Jic or H&R/cargraphic coilovers better? I have heard of some pretty serious problems with both the PSS-9's(hitting the bump stops and noise from front suspension) and the H&R's(rubbing, loud, etc) What should I do

Lou

 

Try these - http://www.racersedge-inc.com/struts.html

I had them on my 944T racecar and they were amazing.

Tell Karl, Joe sent you. He is very knowledgeable.

Any coilover, if installed by a qualified shop should be fine. It's the guys with cars slammed down or the settings screwed up that have issues. Good luck -

 

I have the JIC's with medium springs. I find them to be softer riding than the ROWs (and stock) over small bumps. If you accidentally hit a big bump though, you will get into the main springs and it can be rough. We have a longer / colder winter than any of you boys and the resulting frost heaves in the spring are not pretty. With a small effort in choosing streets and avoiding pot holes, it's really no big deal. I would never go back to stock or ROW.

Mike

 

Mike,

Your JIC's already rest on the main springs when statically loaded. The helper springs only come into play when the suspension is unloaded: car jacked up, car launched hard enough to unload suspension.

During static load and normal driving, the JIC helper springs become nothing more than spacers, being that they are fully compressed the entire time.

BTW, I believe we both have similar springs.. I'm run'n 9/12. Therefore, if your ride feels softer than ROW, it makes me wonder if your damper pressure or valving is different than mine. Also, are your running 19" wheels?

Stephen