Another Oil Debate...
#76
10-05-2011, 02:26 PM
I think this has been said before- but it's recommended to not use 20w50 because the variocam system needs a thinner oil (0w40, 5w40, 5w50, 10w60). If it weren't for Variocam, 20w50 would be great- which is what a lot of the air cooled guys run.
#77
10-05-2011, 02:39 PM
20w-50 mostly. I use 10w-40 for "winter" here in Tucson. I have not put any in the 996TT yet, but had it in my 615HP 300ZXTT for many years. I'm thinking of going with the 10W-30, or 10W-40 for the Porsche maybe this wk. end.
Funny I saw this thread and his cams looked like mine! I guess I'm not the only one who was surprised. Funny to the other guy in the post trying to down play RP is suggesting the worst kind of oils I stated above.(Some oils may loose the API "stamp" because you may have a little worse fuel economy. It is worth noting that these new API guidelines do not need apply to “racing,” “severe duty,” or any motor oils that do not carry an API “starburst” seal or clearly state for off-road-use only. Motor oils meeting “Energy Conserving I or II” standards should be avoided as well as those with an API SM or ILSAC GF-4 classifications. Royal purple is still a SJ oil, like we had in our air cooled Porsches that did very well. Do some research. It is interesting. 09-29-2011 08:36 PM)
The Oil Analysis from Blackstone is a cool thing to see.
Here is the thread: http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...ustang-gt.html
Funny I saw this thread and his cams looked like mine! I guess I'm not the only one who was surprised. Funny to the other guy in the post trying to down play RP is suggesting the worst kind of oils I stated above.(Some oils may loose the API "stamp" because you may have a little worse fuel economy. It is worth noting that these new API guidelines do not need apply to “racing,” “severe duty,” or any motor oils that do not carry an API “starburst” seal or clearly state for off-road-use only. Motor oils meeting “Energy Conserving I or II” standards should be avoided as well as those with an API SM or ILSAC GF-4 classifications. Royal purple is still a SJ oil, like we had in our air cooled Porsches that did very well. Do some research. It is interesting. 09-29-2011 08:36 PM)
The Oil Analysis from Blackstone is a cool thing to see.
Here is the thread: http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...ustang-gt.html
That's is a concern it seems. I've read that too. So what about adding an antiwear additive like ZDDP to bring it up to 0.14-0.18% where race oils seem to fall? So you would have a 0-40 oil with high ZDDP content. I wonder if this would help in the long run. Any disadvantages?
#78
10-05-2011, 02:44 PM
That's is a concern it seems. I've read that too. So what about adding an antiwear additive like ZDDP to bring it up to 0.14-0.18% where race oils seem to fall? So you would have a 0-40 oil with high ZDDP content. I wonder if this would help in the long run. Any disadvantages?[/QUOTE]
Personally, I've taken a lot of advice from Kevin (UMW). I'm running Delvac 1 ESP 5w40 right now, and at 2,500 miles on the oil, my IMS noise is still quiet- which in my simple brain means reduced metal on metal noise = less wear? The diesel oils have higher ZDDP, but still not as much as I'd like to see.
another option is the run Motul 300v, which brings your zinc up to 1500 ppm or so- but you'd want to change your oil at 2,500 miles since it doesn't have the conditioners other oils do.
I really hate chiming in on oil threads- feel like a broken record sometimes
Personally, I've taken a lot of advice from Kevin (UMW). I'm running Delvac 1 ESP 5w40 right now, and at 2,500 miles on the oil, my IMS noise is still quiet- which in my simple brain means reduced metal on metal noise = less wear? The diesel oils have higher ZDDP, but still not as much as I'd like to see.
another option is the run Motul 300v, which brings your zinc up to 1500 ppm or so- but you'd want to change your oil at 2,500 miles since it doesn't have the conditioners other oils do.
I really hate chiming in on oil threads- feel like a broken record sometimes
#80
10-06-2011, 06:19 PM
How has yours been doing? I'm still a bit undecided about the weight for the 996TT, but was thinking, RP10W-30 would be great. Is yours revving up nicely?
Last edited by BOOSTTT; 10-06-2011 at 06:23 PM.
#81
10-06-2011, 06:28 PM
Royal purple has really done some great marketing to lure people in to use some of the worst oil i have ever seen come back lab results.. I hate these oil debates but i get into them always.. I can only speak on what we use..
Valvoline VR1
Motul 300v
Amsoil dominator
Whats funny is i would be willing to bet that you wouldnt have a failure in your car if you changed it every 3k miles with 0.99 oil of the right weight from the auto parts store.. Of course we want whats best for our machines we love so much but spool differences based on oil weight.. now your pushing it..
Valvoline VR1
Motul 300v
Amsoil dominator
Whats funny is i would be willing to bet that you wouldnt have a failure in your car if you changed it every 3k miles with 0.99 oil of the right weight from the auto parts store.. Of course we want whats best for our machines we love so much but spool differences based on oil weight.. now your pushing it..
#82
10-06-2011, 06:32 PM
Btw the only FACT i know for sure that should be followed is the weight of the oil suggested by the manufacturer.. Different weights are determined by bearing clearances set by the manufacturer or your engine builder.. Those of you who think your doing yourself any good running 20/50 weight in a car that calls for 0/30 will find out that hard way that its a major no no..
Mike
Mike
#83
10-06-2011, 07:56 PM
Last summer I in the corse of a week I ran 20 w 50 then 15 w 40 than 10 w30. If I wouldent have run the test my self I would not be leave the spool quickness difference. In all my other cars I run a a heaver oil. Also my cold start rattle is gone for the first time , I put in 10 w 30 rp last weekend. I have been using mobile 1.
#84
10-06-2011, 11:23 PM
Yeh i agree! Bumpin up to 5-40 is one thing but jumpin straight to 20 W is pretty aggressive!
Btw the only FACT i know for sure that should be followed is the weight of the oil suggested by the manufacturer.. Different weights are determined by bearing clearances set by the manufacturer or your engine builder.. Those of you who think your doing yourself any good running 20/50 weight in a car that calls for 0/30 will find out that hard way that its a major no no..
Mike
Mike
#85
10-06-2011, 11:39 PM
Last summer I in the corse of a week I ran 20 w 50 then 15 w 40 than 10 w30. If I wouldent have run the test my self I would not be leave the spool quickness difference. In all my other cars I run a a heaver oil. Also my cold start rattle is gone for the first time , I put in 10 w 30 rp last weekend. I have been using mobile 1.
#86
10-07-2011, 10:21 AM
[quote=Mike@AwdMotorsports;3334219]Royal purple has really done some great marketing to lure people in to use some of the worst oil i have ever seen come back lab results.. I hate these oil debates but i get into them always.. I can only speak on what we use..
Valvoline VR1
Motul 300v
Amsoil dominator
PLEASE POST YOUR FINDINGS! I have been talking about personal experience, professional mechanics, (Greg Dupree) concidered the best Z mechanic in the nation, and unbiased test results..not results from other oil companies. I would like to see these tests your talking about. As I said B4 if you read this thread. The low weight oils are EPA API recommended oils with low zinc and posphorus to provide better fuel economy and they think our cats will last longer. It has nothing to do with engine protection. THAT's why those oils are labeled "for off-road or for cars 2001 and older" Please prove you talk with evidence-based research so we will know your not a blow-hard. By the way what is the weight of Valvoline VR1?
Valvoline VR1
Motul 300v
Amsoil dominator
PLEASE POST YOUR FINDINGS! I have been talking about personal experience, professional mechanics, (Greg Dupree) concidered the best Z mechanic in the nation, and unbiased test results..not results from other oil companies. I would like to see these tests your talking about. As I said B4 if you read this thread. The low weight oils are EPA API recommended oils with low zinc and posphorus to provide better fuel economy and they think our cats will last longer. It has nothing to do with engine protection. THAT's why those oils are labeled "for off-road or for cars 2001 and older" Please prove you talk with evidence-based research so we will know your not a blow-hard. By the way what is the weight of Valvoline VR1?
#87
10-07-2011, 10:26 AM
I mean your going on about how you should not go above 5W-40, but the funny thing about your recommended oil, VR1, is that they don't make it in less than 10W-30 that I have found...SO What are you really talking about???
#88
10-07-2011, 10:27 AM
Btw the only FACT i know for sure that should be followed is the weight of the oil suggested by the manufacturer.. Different weights are determined by bearing clearances set by the manufacturer or your engine builder.. Those of you who think your doing yourself any good running 20/50 weight in a car that calls for 0/30 will find out that hard way that its a major no no..
Mike
Mike
#89
10-07-2011, 10:40 AM
VR1 is definately a good oil from the reseach I have seen. 20W-50 is what I have seen most people using who have high HP engines, not really just for daily drivers. Then This guy is saying no heavier than 5-40, but recommends an oil that is not even sold in less tham 10-30? Just retarded and makes me think someone is talking out of their arssse
#90
10-07-2011, 11:08 AM
Are u talking about me?
VR1 is definately a good oil from the reseach I have seen. 20W-50 is what I have seen most people using who have high HP engines, not really just for daily drivers. Then This guy is saying no heavier than 5-40, but recommends an oil that is not even sold in less tham 10-30? Just retarded and makes me think someone is talking out of their arssse