Hi everyone, does the 996 turbo suffer from any weak points? I.E turbo failer etc? if so what is the normal cause?


What sort of power/boost can the stock internals take also before they start to fail?


Thanks .

 

996/997TT engines are bullet proof...some minor problems may occur but nothing seriously...(maf,etc)You can have up to 700 crank hp without any internal mod...but with reliable and proper tune...Tip will start to slip over 600-630hp...it will need internal reinforcement then...Manual is strong and reliable,however 2nd gear pop out may happen at any time and it is not depended upon hp...

 

Thanks, i would be looking at a manual anyway.

Im looking at running over 700 crank hp so what do i need to upgrade in the engine?

pistons ? rods?

 

As was said, motors are generally bulletproof, to a point, (looking like 700-800 whp now) The trannys are very strong too, but if they have a weak spot, it is the synchros. Most people just upgrade to heavy duty synchros (steel) and gears (GT2 gears?) and call it a day. many have also changed some of the ratios to get rid of the useless 1st gear.

 

Nothing. You can easily run 700whp on these cars on stock internals. These are race motors. We have a guy here running 850 plus on stock internals. However, a set of rods is always a good thing (not necessarily required, though). While you're in there, make sure the lifters are good and that they're the newest part numbers available from Porsche.

The pistons are world class. No need to change them. The tranny is also world class. Good for well over 1,000rwhp. The brass sycnhros can fail but that has nothing to do with power, mostly how you shift. If you like to launch hard, replace the axles with 300M. You'll obviously need a better clutch as well.

That's about it.

 

where can i find those heavy duty synchros??

 

I think the dealer. Use the GT2 synchros...

 

http://www.gboxweb.com/

 

thanks for the input chaps.

 

Outside of a few cars having the 2nd gear popout, a very few of us (myself, Mikelly a few others that I cant recall right now) have burnt out our trannies, the common denominator is we drive fairly aggressively. The questions that need to be asked are 1. How do you drive and 2. How often do you change the trans fluid? These are critical questions.

The short of it is the turbo has oil jets on gears 1-4, the GT2 and GT3 have it on all and the cone and also have air to liquid and liquid to liquid coolers. If you drive hard or track your car, you will want at least a tranny cooler and frequent fluid changes. The good news is if you drive normal, you shouldn't have any issues, but if you're thinking of tracking or drive hard, this is something to seriously consider as the tranny is about $20k to build out properly.

Hope this helps.

 

Thanks, i will defo use the car as it should be used with track events. I have a set of gearbox and transfer box coolers + pumps sat in my garage waiting to be installed on my current car, however if im selling my car and getting a 996tt then i will keep them for the 996.

When you say tranny i take it you mean gearbox (what we call it in the u.k) or do you mean the transfer box for the 4 wheel drive?

Can the 4 wheel drive on the 996tt be adjusted to rwd etc? How does it work? is the car rwd and 4wd when the rear wheels spin maybe? or is it 100% 4 wheel drive? what split ration? 60/40 maybe?

 

Gearbox/sluhsbox/tranny all the same, transfer box can also be a center differential in the case of AWD. The 996tt is generally 95/5 rear biased but is variable but not sure to what extreme. Allot of people remove the drivershaft for RWD (3 bolts on each side of the shaft) to get AWD, others go all out and swap the front differential etc to the GT2 parts to save a couple hundred lbs.

 

if its variable then how is this controlled? Can the driver turn a **** or something to what he wants or does the ecu and the state of grip the car has adjust itself?

 

i will start a new thread on this

 

It does warrant mentioning that this is neither a cheap nor easy modification. In the stock configuration both 1st and 2nd gear are integral to the mainshaft. You have no choice but to change both ratios along with the mainshaft to alter this. Depending on the approach one takes in doing this( OEM or aftermarket) expect it to run $2500-4000.