I would go UMW Stage 2A. The upgrade path and that 997 compressor wheel will go a long way.

 

bob'5

Go K24/18g Markski did mine and you won't belive what is to have

100+WHP more in your car.........it's something else,expectacular.

 

do headers make much of a difference at the billets or k24/18g levels?

 

^nope, clean up the factory ones with a dremel

 

Is that what porting the headers mean? I keep seeing people recommending that. Is that something my indy mechanic can do?

 

yes sir.

 

Does porting the headers help that much??

 

Yes but if your not careful you can port too much and create exhaust leaks.... seen it a few times.... once it happened on mine... problem is that the stock one is welded inside only the flange only... thus if you want a leak free stock ported header you would need to weld all of them on the outside too...
here is what we did with our headers... made a custom single header flange with a recess lip so that the tube goes inside without reducing the inside diameter where we weld inside and... some comparison between our headers and sock... after what Ive seen and done up to now... looking in retrospect I think that a good header does make a difference... just like other upgrades we do... but thats just my opinion...
markski

 

Sunoco 260 GT plus, very close to VP's ms109

 

Depends on your budget. I would get Tial Alpha A28s. Faster spool (huge in 1st and 2nd) and a FAT top end.

 

Exactly what my tuner said...

 

Are the older version of the GT28/K16 turbos anywhere near as good as the Tial Alpha A28s

 

I have non Alpha GT2860RS on my car. They still sell this latest version of this model. They're less expensive yet and are good for about 700HP. They are ball bearing and can be water cooled.

IMO 1st and 2nd gear spool matters MOST and turbo lag is the enemy.

 

I think there is too much history and demonstrated ablities of the 24/18 to ignore the tried and true set up. However if the delta between billet k16's and the 24/18's were to widen and thus make the BK16's substantially cheaper then it would clearly become more popular with a clear price advantage, almost comparable power and quick spool and end users would then have to determine there needs or goals. However in reality it is my opinion, many will opt for the k24/18 set up because of the bang for the buck aspect and slightly better or higher yield provided. So as they are curently priced go for the 24/18's. If the billet K16's become remarkably cheaper, then analyze what you want and the pros and cons of both and use the absolute cost to help you decide. Until then go with the 24/18 or 24/20

Josh

 

If those of us that had k16's just had to send our cores in and get the billet wheel for say $500-1000 and then retune for say $1500, the billet k16's would be flying off the shelf in my opinion due to the value it would provide. Much like current owners with K24's can send there units to blouch for upgrade to 24/18's and then contact any of a number of tuners for a tune. Why the business model for those of us with k16's is different I dont know.