996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.
View Poll Results: Best turbo package from K16s
K16 Billet Upgrade
23.08%
K24/18g Upgrade
55.77%
Other (please state)
21.15%
Voters: 52. You may not vote on this poll

What turbo package for the next step? K16 Billet, K24/18g....

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  #46  
Old 08-07-2010, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ari
I have non Alpha GT2860RS on my car. They still sell this latest version of this model. They're less expensive yet and are good for about 700HP. They are ball bearing and can be water cooled.

IMO 1st and 2nd gear spool matters MOST and turbo lag is the enemy.
I agree with you that turbo lag sucks. I would not trade quick spool and bottom end power for top end power. I'm trying to figure out which direction to take on upgrading my car. There are so many choices. If I can pick up a set of the GT28/K16 turbos what are the supporting mods that would be necessary just to bolt them up? I can see there are a lot of mods to run them more efficiently but what would be the necessary ones right away so I can do the rest of the mods as time goes on.
 
  #47  
Old 08-07-2010, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by DJM
Why the business model for those of us with k16's is different I dont know.
I know... but to do a billet K16 costs a lot more then $500 per turbo... its actually a full turbo rebuild... keeping the turbine wheel in tack that is....
I have direct access for them for over a year as well... it costs 3 times more to do the upgrade... You still will need to spend $3K if you want that turbo set up...
We are awaiting a new billet wheel that may be half price for the K16... lets hope it comes out soon...
 
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  #48  
Old 08-07-2010, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by MARKSKI@911tuning
I know... but to do a billet K16 costs a lot more then $500 per turbo... its actually a full turbo rebuild... keeping the turbine wheel in tack that is....
I have direct access for them for over a year as well... it costs 3 times more to do the upgrade... You still will need to spend $3K if you want that turbo set up...
We are awaiting a new billet wheel that may be half price for the K16... lets hope it comes out soon...
Mark,

Thanks for the info, I guess I was making assumptions that it was the same or similair to upgrading k24's to 24/18's.

Josh
 
  #49  
Old 08-07-2010, 01:58 PM
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I will defer to Markski as the resident pro.

All you need to start are the turbos and exhaust and a tune. You can build around that over time. If you think a 600-650 HP ceiling is good, then just an 5 BAR FPR and call it a day. Pretty much anything after that will require race gas anyways.

There have been 3 versions of the 2860 turbo I believe some are K16 based and the latest ones are not? Mine are ball bearing and water cooled. Maybe someone can shed some light on the evolution of the 2860 turbo

Here is a not often enough spoken about review IMO
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...o-results.html
It clearly shows that the Tial Alpha is superior in spool and power. The 24/18g may cost much less however.

Remember almost MOST dyno plots are 4th gear pulls from 2,000 RPM. The turbos will not respond like that in the lower gears with bigger turbos as you speed through the rev range. The most important thing IMO is how will the car respond in 1st and 2nd when roll into the throttle?
 

Last edited by Turbo Fanatic; 08-07-2010 at 02:05 PM.
  #50  
Old 08-07-2010, 02:42 PM
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Hey Ari post your best 60-130 that might help him decide.I would go with the 24/18's.
 
  #51  
Old 08-07-2010, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ari
I will defer to Markski as the resident pro.

All you need to start are the turbos and exhaust and a tune. You can build around that over time. If you think a 600-650 HP ceiling is good, then just an 5 BAR FPR and call it a day. Pretty much anything after that will require race gas anyways.

There have been 3 versions of the 2860 turbo I believe some are K16 based and the latest ones are not? Mine are ball bearing and water cooled. Maybe someone can shed some light on the evolution of the 2860 turbo

Here is a not often enough spoken about review IMO
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...o-results.html
It clearly shows that the Tial Alpha is superior in spool and power. The 24/18g may cost much less however.

Remember almost MOST dyno plots are 4th gear pulls from 2,000 RPM. The turbos will not respond like that in the lower gears with bigger turbos as you speed through the rev range. The most important thing IMO is how will the car respond in 1st and 2nd when roll into the throttle?
Tony almost always dyno's in 3rd. With my car on the dyno, the difference between 3rd gear dyno and 4th gear dyno was less than 20whp.
 
  #52  
Old 08-07-2010, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by DJM
Mark,

Thanks for the info, I guess I was making assumptions that it was the same or similair to upgrading k24's to 24/18's.

Josh

No by no means... the billet is a 7 blade wheel... and is a full turbo rebuild... when we do the 18 or 20g its only a compressor upgrade...
 
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  #53  
Old 08-07-2010, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Nor Cal Turbo
I agree with you that turbo lag sucks. I would not trade quick spool and bottom end power for top end power.
Let me try to put this misinformation to rest for the last time. I went from K24s to 24/18s. They actually spool faster and there is almost no lag. If anyone wants to take a ride, I live in Annapolis, Maryland. 24/18s spool very quick, adding larger intercoolers and injectors, 100 cell cat exhaust (Europipe), and a larger intake plenum, probably didn't hurt either, trust me they spool up plenty fast and when they get going, hang on. Lastly, your new map has a lot to do with it, so choose a respectable tuner. You can't argue with 600 rwhp and rwtq at 1.3 bar. Don't make a choice that you'll regret later.
 

Last edited by 9Eleven; 08-07-2010 at 05:24 PM.
  #54  
Old 08-07-2010, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 9Eleven
Let me try to put this misinformation to rest for the last time. I went from K24s to 24/18s. They actual spool faster and there is almost no lag. If anyone wants to take a ride, I live in Annapolis, Maryland. 24/18s spool very quick, adding larger intercoolers and injectors, 100 cell cat exhaust (Europipe), and a larger intake plenum, probably didn't hurt either, trust me they spool up plenty fast and when they get going, hang on. Lastly, your new map has a lot to do with it, so choose a respectable tuner. You can't argue with 600 rwhp and rwtq at 1.3 bar. Don't make a choice that you'll regret later.
Yip....
 
  #55  
Old 08-07-2010, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 9Eleven
Let me try to put this misinformation to rest for the last time. I went from K24s to 24/18s. They actual spool faster and there is almost no lag. If anyone wants to take a ride, I live in Annapolis, Maryland. 24/18s spool very quick, adding larger intercoolers and injectors, 100 cell cat exhaust (Europipe), and a larger intake plenum, probably didn't hurt either, trust me they spool up plenty fast and when they get going, hang on. Lastly, your new map has a lot to do with it, so choose a respectable tuner. You can't argue with 600 rwhp and rwtq at 1.3 bar. Don't make a choice that you'll regret later.

This exactly the sort of ancedotal evidence I was refering to above that as long as billet k16's cost as much or almost as much as k24/18's the consumer will go with the 24/18's or at least I would, why experiment when there is so many satisfied customers of 24/18's and strong proven track record.
 
  #56  
Old 08-07-2010, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by DJM
This exactly the sort of ancedotal evidence I was refering to above that as long as billet k16's cost as much or almost as much as k24/18's the consumer will go with the 24/18's or at least I would, why experiment when there is so many satisfied customers of 24/18's and strong proven track record.
BTW,
we can do the same with the K24 turbos as far as the billets go... there are 2 options for that... the cheaper and obviously the more expensive way...
 
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  #57  
Old 08-07-2010, 05:06 PM
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I would say there are plenty of Tial based GT 610-700 kits running around with satisfied owners. That's what EVO puts on ALL of their 700 and under kits. I'm not saying the 24/18g sucks. Just saying that Tial Alphas are better everywhere at a considerably higher cost and that 2860s spool like K16s. None of these turbos has problems maintaining 1.4 BAR to redline. My latest tune holds a steady 1.3 BAR on 91 and makes even more power on race mode. Plenty fast for me.

I'm sure some of your cars are faster.

I'm also not trying to pick a fight with anyone or make this personal. I don't make the turbos and would love to be proven wrong.

Paulie Walnuts: 60-130 is a nice badge of honor, but I value street and under 100 mph performance. 1st, 2nd, 3rd. However I would actually love to do a 60-130 when it gets a bit colder but need a Vbox to borrow. Last time I asked no-one volunteered. I'd be willing to put a 100% cash/pay pal deposit.

Again, I will say the tuner you choose should help you decide based on the criteria most important to you.
 

Last edited by Turbo Fanatic; 08-07-2010 at 05:09 PM.
  #58  
Old 08-07-2010, 05:28 PM
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If you already have K24s it's a no brainer. There is no greater horsepower gain for the investment when you convert your K24 to a 24/18. If you are starting from a K16, then I would recommend getting a set of Tials since you are going to buy a set a turbos anyway be it a converted set of 24s, or a set ot Tials. I'm not sure which set can provide more power or quicker power. I'm not a big believer in dyno number camparisons, show me a trap speed or a 60 - 130 time and then we have confirmation of which is "better." I think they both retail for around 4k to 5k a set. I believe this was the case with Ari, he began with a set of K16s. Converting your 16 to a 16 billet is not the best bang for your buck.
 

Last edited by 9Eleven; 08-07-2010 at 05:40 PM.
  #59  
Old 08-12-2010, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by bob'5
16/16g option not looking too bad as a cheaper option and without pushing internals too hard. K24/18g setup, I don't think I will be able to stop myself pushing it.

and if you don't already have one, the 18g will likely require a new clutch...
 
  #60  
Old 08-12-2010, 10:01 AM
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