A few very happy clients running our custom garrett turbos with the full blown kit... same parts as on our 1200 hp cars with the turbos and fuel system being bigger... ( and motor build of course).... we have ran it up to upper 700s as well....
Our clients independently dynod the cars... all hitting the 700+ RWHP mark as promised on unleaded race gas. mid 5's 60 to 130 mph... and one client trapped 139+mph at 10.4.
Those are real numbers you can take to the bank... independent proof... 6speed member( Palette).
good luck in search of your goal..
markski

http://www.911tuning.com/996-Turbo/S...50GT-p-87.html

 

Good advice...but even the A28's are going to overwhelm the tranny (although an excellent turbo).

I would do the 16/16's, get a good quality exhaust and use that as a dd. You will have a car that will run a high 6 second 60-130 and be very easy to drive.

 

Mark,

The 724 was on race gas, yes?

Your stage 3 kit would be a good set up for the auto, yes?

 

My car made 712 rwhp on 93 octane in summer heat. It's probably closer to 730 in this weather.

700 on pump is rare, but definitely not impossible.

 

And a built bottom end

 

well the million dollar question and the question i have been scrounging for is where does the tippy fail? there is NOTHING definitive from anyone! the only person who will give you a number is white horse and he says 550 +- whp is a threshold for stock tippy.
i personally think it will handle a little more because automatics generally hold up a little better in other vehicles. but i am no porsche pro and have nothing to back this claim up other experience with american cars. i know when american cars are ready for real power they go automatic. but even these are not without upgrades. all i know is what i have put together on 6 speed. il try to put all i have gathered in one spot for you....and me....and the other chichtronics. i think if you go really big in a six speed, yah a clutch will help, but if you miss a gear few times your gonna break somethin in that too and synchros, etc. have you ever looked in one of those!!! what is all that crap!?!?

from what i have read, you will need at least a transmission cooler. gemballa has one but i think you can get it from MB or IPT cheaper. i also expect if you are pretty handy with a car you could have just about any oil cooler tweaked to run on the TT but i havnt explored that much yet.

there are also some solenoids in the tippy that seem to be a weak link that you can get for about $135 X 2 each from parts.com and really add some pop to the shifts. iv even read "PDK like". they are a mopar product that MB uses in some of their SL 500's and maybe the biturbo trannys. again not difficult to do if you are handy, just remove the valve body and these should be a snap. part number is 240 270 00 89.

torque converter is also questionable as to whether it solves any toughness problems. i say no, thats just not its job, but with that kind of power might as well do it. MB and IPT has one for about 900$ but it may require some "tweaking" to get it to fit. iv got a call in now to find out for sure. i bet ya TCI would build you one custom. the others iv seen from EVOMS are close to $2000, so it would be worth it to hear from IPT and MB or talk with TCI.

there are also some computer upgrades from various vendors for the tranny brain which up your rev limiter and spice the shift speed up and particularly down but again dont claim to add any beef.

however the bigest problem seems to be the clutch packs, specifically the ones in K2 K3 sections (where ever that is). users claim that these seem to be "melted together". obviously a function of heat, hince the oil coolers help! the only fix that makes since with these is to replace with the kevlar clutches and add 3 more clutch packs to get 9 versus 6. but even with this, it seems part of the tranny housing needs to be machined to make room for these additional clutches. this is obviously gonna be the most expensive portion of any tranny upgrade and certainly where the shade tree guy like myself gets in real trouble!!

i think if i were to mod my tippy in addition to regular new fluids, in order:
1.tranny cooler (100-500$)
2.TCU upgrade (brain transplant) $1000
3.Solenoids (275-300)
4.TC if the IPT or MB fits with minimal effort (tranny has to come out) do ur intake tubes then (900 or 2000$)
5. Clutch packs: ($$...??) personally, id wait to blow these and just pray that with 1,2,3, 4 they might squeeze by. i wouldnt do preventative maintenance here.

so best case $3000 can get you "some" beef (1,2,3,4) but thats provided 900$ TC fits. but even then 2500$ gets u 1,2,3. iv got no idea what it would cost to have someone do all this, but i bet it aint cheap!

i gotta save a buck, so if its somethin i cant do myself i cant afford it. but if money is no option, you could spend about 7-10000$ at RUFF or MKB or IPT on a tranny build and still not be totally sure whats next. i bet for this money you could have a sweet C6 or powerglyde adapted to fit and be done for sure!!!

 

No, that was on the stock motor.

Also, I don't have a "built bottom-end". I have rods.

 

I agree with you but I would consider your setup a custom not so much a kit, no?

 

Scott great run, but most of the tuners out there are not gonna let just anyone comfortably run 1.5 bar, most in fear of the blown engine story shortly after.

not exactly built as only one thing was changed but its not stock

but you did run it before the rods were put in at this power level =)

 

It's an old-style Protomotive setup that's actually the first Porsche to run the outstanding turbos that Markski currently sells in his Ski850 kits. It also has a Switzer exhaust.

All I did was replace the intercoolers it had on it with TPC Racing Blitzkrieg ICs and then Mike at TPC spent a few days dyno-tuning it on 93 (using Todd K. remotely).

My results aren't due to the pieces/parts so much, as they are the time and effort Mike and Todd spent tuning it.

 

My car hasn't seen a dyno since the motor was built. All of my dynos were done on 93 octane, stock motor.

If I didn't have a lifter fail, I'd be running 1.5 BAR on 93 and 1.6 BAR on 100, exactly like I am now. The only difference is that now that I have rods, I run more gain on my EBC, since I'm not worried about bending rods with too much torque.

Anyway, my point is that 700 whp on 93 on a stock motor is not impossible, nor do I believe it's difficult. It's just requires the tuner to spend a lot of time on the tune.

 

Scott,

I thought you did head studs?

In any event, I am not going to run 1.52 on pump gas, although I have accidentally seem a 1.4 spike.

In regard to the tuning time, yes you are absolutely right it is critical...and not cheap. In my case I was paying for both Todds' and Akrams' time (and he even gave me some free tuning time).

 

Nope. The only aftermarket parts in my motor are Pauter rods. That's it.

That's a very good idea, since your car isn't tuned for it. Mine is.

 

scott has stock studs and headgasket

damn scotts trigger finger is faster then mine

 

I have, however, been given the green light to run 1.6-1.7 on C16