996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

Streetable 700 AWHP 996 Turbo

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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 07:28 PM
  #46  
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+1 for Markski. I'm running his ski 850 kit and I'm very happy with it. If you're considering this much power I would steer clear of a triptronic car.
 
Old Nov 7, 2010 | 07:40 PM
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Oh, meth...that changes everything, then yes, you can definitely make 700whp.

You are going to need to rebuild your tranny...you can start w/ the upgraded stall converter, but that won't last for long.

Here is what I recommend: By the time you build the tranny, motor, etc...and it is a very very slippery slope once you get started and the bills will add up past $100K very quickly, why don't you just get the new PDK turbo.

With a tune chip it will run even with a 600 plus whp 6speed or auto. You can break into the 10's with a car that will be reliable and a total pleasure in traffic.

That is what I would
 
Old Nov 7, 2010 | 07:43 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by TT VIPER
How much does it cost to build a 996 Turbo engine with forged internals, say CP pistons, Crower rods, rings, bearings, and studs, all assembled and balanced?

And again the real question that I'm interested in is how much of an AWD will the 996 Turbo be at 700 AWHP level? Is it possible to have 30% - 70% or 40% - 60% front-rear traction at these HP levels? Or does the front differential become useless, making the car basically a RWD?
i answered this earlier but ill do it again,
10k in labor 100hrs,
3k for the cheap version of the tools to accomplish this.
just under 3k for rods,
2500-5500 for pistons depending on stock size or 3.8 kit,
around 3k in misc gaskets and such
oil pump is 800-1500$ for the nice gt3 pump.
main bearings and IMS bearings about 1k
upgraded head studs 800-2k depending on choice and machine work
o ring head 1800-3.5k
ported head 3500 (not including head tear down)
1k for valve springs
this is stock valves no valve guide work
3500 for reground cams 7k for new ones

easy to add up quickly when bill starts at 10k for labor.
 
Old Nov 7, 2010 | 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by besiktas
It's old news. My car (997tt) has well over 700whp and our modified tiptronic handles it just fine. Actually, on pbox graph, the shifting is at 0.1 second, which is the same with PDK
All the 996 era autos I have run shifted slowly. Yes one can be good if you spend enough money (go the the Mercedes SL 55 BS is one good choice, but not cheap). Like I said, I would just get the new PDK.

Do you have any proof of how fast your car is? I don't see any #'s but maybe I am looking in the wrong place.

A vid of you running a proven fast car would also suffice.
 
Old Nov 7, 2010 | 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by TT VIPER
Wow. The CP pistons in my V10 (8.5 to 1 ratio) cost $150 each in just parts and I have 10 of them, not 6.

Your car is AWD tiptronic, right? How much of an AWD does your car drive like at 700 AWHP? Are there major differences between the AWD drivetrain of 996 Turbo vs 997 Turbo?
997 awd system is completely different and much better, the 996 system is like an add on system is was not designed as the heart of the drivtrain it was osrt of bastardized onto the setup.
 
Old Nov 7, 2010 | 07:50 PM
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Being in Europe I imagine it would be much more expensive...assuming there was no strike
 
Old Nov 7, 2010 | 07:59 PM
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One thing that has not been fully discussed in this thread is the fact that yes, the Metzger motor is the last a a kind....a true racing motor that just happened to be mass produced. With the right tuning and gas, yes, it will make 700 whp very reliably.

It is a truly remarkable piece of engineering, and that is why I have no desire to crack one. However the 996's, IMO, were made for a 6 speed....get a good triple carbon clutch (like a Tilton or ATS) and you will have a car that is bulletproof.
 
Old Nov 7, 2010 | 08:55 PM
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You will not need to build the motor for the AWHP you are looking to make. Tranny will need to be built though to handle the power you would like. The AWD will last for a while, not sure how long? we had ours making 660 at the wheels for 10k miles and 860 at the wheels for 4k miles. We took the AWD out for weight and was still working perfectly after 36k miles. If you choose to build the motor it will cost a bit, a basic build will be 10k-15k. Head work and cams will bring you in the 2Xk's and up.
Good luck cant wait to see results
 
Old Nov 7, 2010 | 09:49 PM
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I don't know how much I was making actual AWHP, but I do know that I dynoed 868rwhp SAE in RWD (we had the driveshaft out at the time) with a peak of 27.1psi. I've ran as much as 30.1psi (on the street, but Justin has the car pulling timing above 29.5psi) so the car was WELL into the 900+rwhp area in the cold. With the driveshaft in and on 19's (315/25/19 Nitto INVO's in the rear and 235/35/19 (I think 35, don't remember exactly) PS2's in the front) the car was dangerous. I say that with a 100% serious look on my face right now. My 4.89 60-130 was done full weight (1/2 or 3/4 tank of MS109) and AWD on 19s. To be honest it was a "Hail Mary" run and I did it just coming back from eating some dinner and I had the driftbox. I had 60-100 times that were almost the same but would miss 4th or slow shift 4th (after I missed) and I'd fall out of boost. I hit the right amount of boost on the brake and nailed a 4th gear shift that probably would make MOST Porsche owners cringe (think with re-spool it was .2sec), car barely spun and it nailed the number I was after. I know if I got over maybe even 11 or 12psi on the brakes in 3rd gear at 55 the car would blow all 4 tires off. Some how my vicous coupler never broke before I took it out. I had plenty of time where I had to just abort a run (or even just playing around) because I came inches from hitting a curb or a guard rail. That's when I decided to take it all out. The weight saving is like 60-70lbs (I think it's less because my weak *** picked up the whole front diff and stuff by my self LOL). I also do some drag racing so I have a CCW Drag Pack with a 16" MT Drag Radial II's on the back and 17" Bias Ply front tires (I was going to end up maybe going ET-Streets one day). I went my 10.08 and my 149mph passes on the same day with the front diff and stuff in, but driveshaft removed. I didn't see any passes that day over 27psi peaks (in fact most avg'ed 26psi peaks). I found out later on that the timing setting I had on my standalone was actually a degree less than I was suppose to run (Justin forgot which made the big number, we learned this in the summer when that 1* of timing added almost 40rwhp). I was hoping to go 9s and over 150 with a stock bottom end.

I blew up my 3rd gear on pump gas (wastegate spring in the heat 13.X psi peak according to my HKS). I powershifted (no lift on the throttle or anything) 3rd and because it being a cable driven trans unlike the Vette (rearmounted trans) where its an actual shaft, it wasn't full engaged. If you search my threads I've made you can see the outcome of what happened (only 1 nub of a tooth on 3rd gear left). It was rebuilt by Gbox (they are some really cool people over there, and have a really fast turn around). I am currently making some major changes to my car to make a LOT more power, as I want 160+mph traps (hopefully). But the full details will come soon enough. I had over 5000+ miles (with 2000 (literally, went through 5-6 full tanks of MS109 with no pump gas in between) miles at over 850+rwhp) on this setup. My previous setup made 550rwhp or so on pump and 650rwhp on MS109. This setup made ~650rwhp on 1.2 (whatever 18psi peak would be, to lazy to open up a calculator) the rest of the time. I could have made 700rwhp probably on pump gas, but I did not want to push it (yet I've ran 2bar on MS109, ya ya I'm a hypocrite LOL). Scott though has done 700rwhp+ successfully in his GT2 so it is VERY much possible to do it, it's all in the tune though. TPC and Todd K. worked together with Scott's beautiful white GT2 and were making the power without a problem. If you have E85 available in lots of places in your area I'd suggest an E85 setup because well Corn Fuel is bad ***, but remember it does take more fueling (30-40% more fuel compared to a car making the same power (I think; Chris Green, Tony@EPL, or any E85 users probably know the exact amount)).

My setup details can be seen on http://www.boostlogic.com/?page_id=593 (Chuck I'm letting it link because they are a sponsor, but if it can't still be I am sorry). That is the direct link to it. I do have a standalone computer that was installed and tuned by Justin Nenni (being from the Viper area you probably know who he is). With a stock DME I was able to make 843rwhp on about the same boost with Tony@EPL. This was all done remotely with Justin and Tony working together to make the calls on what needs to be done.

Anyway I've blabbed enough and left off (and don't remember where I was going) I started writing this at like 8:30 and started watching the Green Bay / Dallas game and just sat back down.

EDIT: Not sure if I mentioned it, but for a clutch I am using a Tilton Triple Disk.
 
Old Nov 8, 2010 | 01:35 AM
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The basic Boostlogic setups seem quite affordable. What is the catch?
 

Last edited by Mikkofin; Nov 8, 2010 at 01:37 AM.
Old Nov 8, 2010 | 02:46 AM
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TTViper, try getting in touch with Ken who is a regular on www.porkers.co.uk
He's running a 996 Turbo tiptronic Proto 24/20g setup with a his tranny rebuilt by MKB in Germany (Euro 4k if I recall). He is running close to the figures you are looking for.
 
Old Nov 8, 2010 | 03:55 AM
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Originally Posted by TT VIPER
Hi everybody.

I'm a newbie here. I've decided that I want a 700 WHP or more AWD car. It must be able to reach 700 AWHP on 91-93 octane pump gas. The best and most economical option seems like buying a 996 Turbo and modifying it. I have not purchased the car yet but I have my eyes on a 2003 996 Turbo Tiptronic. I have couple of questions before I make my decision.

I have seen that there are some packages out there for 996 Turbos. I was thinking about converting to GT3071 or GT3076 dual ball bearing water cooled turbos with Tial external wastegates and intercoolers, fuel system, etc to support that.

Can the stock engine handle 700 AWHP? Does the stock engine come with forged pistons?
Will it be enough to replace the pistons and connecting rods with forged internals and call it a day or do I also need to replace the crankshaft with billet and add billet main caps?
How are the stock heads on the 996 Turbo in terms of flow numbers? Do they need to be upgraded for 700 AWHP?

How about the drivetrain? Can the stock tiptronic drivetrain handle 700 AWHP? Is it better to go with a Manual 996 Turbo for 700 AWHP? Can the front, center and rear differentials handle 700 AWHP and launches with that much power? How about the halfshafts?

I know it's a lot of questions. Thank you for all the answers and advices.
Take a look to that Protomotive TIP 996tt w/Alpha 30 kit + MKB Upgraded tranny...On low boost and pumpgas

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DaJxycZgmTo
 
Old Jul 20, 2011 | 04:52 AM
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Sorry, just saw that post.

My car is currently the fastest tiptronic porsche. 60-130 4.97. It's on the list.

Of course it took some mods to get it shift like that and handle that power, but it's not impossible or never at all. at least not anymore

Originally Posted by Dr_jitsu
All the 996 era autos I have run shifted slowly. Yes one can be good if you spend enough money (go the the Mercedes SL 55 BS is one good choice, but not cheap). Like I said, I would just get the new PDK.

Do you have any proof of how fast your car is? I don't see any #'s but maybe I am looking in the wrong place.

A vid of you running a proven fast car would also suffice.
 
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