996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

What divertor valves do you guys recommend?

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  #16  
Old 12-24-2010, 12:59 PM
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+1for the 710n's. Have had them on my turbo for 3 years now and just put them on my rs6 too
 
  #17  
Old 12-25-2010, 10:33 AM
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I had forge before, no problems, went with 710N now based on more experience turbo-tuner people's feedback.
 
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Old 12-30-2010, 12:50 PM
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Can anyone post a link to best source for the Bosch 710N diverter valves with plastic diaphrams? any part numbers etc...would help also
 
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Old 12-30-2010, 01:55 PM
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x2 and is the upgraded hose worth it or just get a new stock hose?
 
  #20  
Old 12-30-2010, 02:02 PM
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Pair of Agency Power diverter valves and silicone FHose - $325 shipped.
 
  #21  
Old 12-30-2010, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by sunir
Can anyone post a link to best source for the Bosch 710N diverter valves with plastic diaphrams? any part numbers etc...would help also
UMW sells them and Kevin is great to deal with.
kevin@ultimatemotorwerks.com
 
  #22  
Old 01-02-2011, 01:24 PM
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710Ns are a direct drop in, correct?

Thanks, TK
 
  #23  
Old 01-02-2011, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by tvr-4
710Ns are a direct drop in, correct?

Thanks, TK
Yes. Vivid Racing has a good DIY, also with hints to replace the oe clamps with regular hoseclamps. Due to the placement and how the oe clamps were turned, I have to say this job was an 7/10 in "difficulty" just due to the fact those were so hard to get loose. Now with regular screw type hoseclamps it's pretty much 2/10 in difficulty, straight up job.
 
  #24  
Old 01-02-2011, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by tvr-4
710Ns are a direct drop in, correct?

Thanks, TK
Yup.
 
  #25  
Old 01-02-2011, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by MrWhite
Yes. Vivid Racing has a good DIY, also with hints to replace the oe clamps with regular hoseclamps. Due to the placement and how the oe clamps were turned, I have to say this job was an 7/10 in "difficulty" just due to the fact those were so hard to get loose. Now with regular screw type hoseclamps it's pretty much 2/10 in difficulty, straight up job.
Originally Posted by ttboost
Yup.
Thanks to both!

I experienced the PITA of the stock clamps once before, definitelly annoying.
 
  #26  
Old 01-03-2011, 12:55 PM
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Does the engine need to be lowered or dropped to put in a set of silicone boost hoses and while doing such swap out the DVs for the 710N set? Or can the entire hose and DV swap job be done with regular tools and jackstands in the garage in a couple of hrs one afternoon?
 
  #27  
Old 01-03-2011, 03:26 PM
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It's a couple of hour job, and lowering the engine is not mandatory, but it really helps with the access to the middle/back of the engine and makes for less skinned knuckles.

Dropping an engine is actually very simple (2 bolts) and is easily done in the garage, just be careful and make sure to support the engine so it does not end up on the floor.
 
  #28  
Old 01-03-2011, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by tvr-4
It's a couple of hour job, and lowering the engine is not mandatory, but it really helps with the access to the middle/back of the engine and makes for less skinned knuckles.

Dropping an engine is actually very simple (2 bolts) and is easily done in the garage, just be careful and make sure to support the engine so it does not end up on the floor.
Do people just loosen those two bolts, and lower the engine a smidge.....or remove them while supporting the engine?
 
  #29  
Old 01-03-2011, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by vntperformance
Do people just loosen those two bolts, and lower the engine a smidge.....or remove them while supporting the engine?

Put a jack under the engine, loosen the exhaust straps completely, REMOVE the 2 engine mount nuts from below, try to keep engine supported. It really can't "fall out", but it can rest up against the rear bulkhead, which probably isn't great for any amount of time....
 
  #30  
Old 01-03-2011, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by ttboost
Put a jack under the engine, loosen the exhaust straps completely, REMOVE the 2 engine mount nuts from below, try to keep engine supported. It really can't "fall out", but it can rest up against the rear bulkhead, which probably isn't great for any amount of time....
Correct!
 


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