Lowering is not necessary. Removal was tight, but as long as you remove everything indicated above there is enough room to get the tank out. Don't rush it - if it doesn't fit, try a different angle.

 

I somewhat followed this DYI. The only difference is I lowered the motor by putting a jack under the motor, removing the two nuts on the engine mounts and lowering the jack/engine about 2". This made a HUGE difference and I did the same job in 2-3hrs. I also changed the intake manifold gasket, Oil pressure sensor and fuel filter at the same time. https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...tt-engine.html

That being said, it is/was a good time to update the diverters too!

 

Ok guys....I'll DIY it. Can I really do this without draining system? Also if I do drain how much coolant is needed to refill? Is this like everything else a hard fluid to find on a sunday? Help@@

 

Jason, i lost almost no coolant. The bottom hose is the last thing you take off so, you tilt the tank up and high before removal. Once I removed the tank, i kept it on its side and the cap on. It doesn't drain(much) because of the internal baffles. I poured it into another container and reused all of the fluid.

As far as how much to add, mine was at the low mark on the tank when i did it so, used about 1 quart.

Regarding where to buy coolant, i bought mine at the dealer so, i don't know.. $30+/- a gallon

 

Just for reference, you can use Permatex anaerobic flange sealant on the sealing surface of the "intake distributor" in place of the factory gasket if it's damaged or just can't get it back in there. 1/16" bead around the middle of the flange. It will never leak. Same high temp/high torque sealant I use to seal case halves and gearboxes and never have had it fail. Just clean the surfaces with alcohol or similar degreaser first. (Do not use RTV)

Great writeup sir!

 

I'm using the DIY instructions posted by Slider and am stuck on the final step--pulling the coolant reservoir out of the bracket. It comes out about 1/2" and no further (pics shows where I'm at now). Any suggestions to get it all the way out?

TIA,

Bob

 

The quickest (and easiest) way to make more room is to drop the engine an inch or so. I didn't do that when I took mine out but it was a very tight squeeze to get it through. All you have to do is jack up the car and put it on jack stands, then put a jack under the motor and jack up until you see the there is no weight on the engine mount bolts. Unscrew them one at a time until they come off, then put them back on and thread about 3/4 inches. Then slowly lower the jack until you have the clearance you need. It sounds like a lot of work, but it will only take 10 minutes or so.

 

Agree with Slider. It is so simple….The socket needed to remove the two rear mount nuts is a deep socket 18mm and the torque for these two nuts on reinstallation is 63 ftlb….

 

I agree too. I had it dropped (going to install semi solid mounts after the new tank is installed) but the problem is that the tank seems to be caught on something. It slides out of the bracket about 1/2" and then won't move any further. All of the hoses are removed, along with the connector to the coolant level sensor at the bottom of the tank, engine is lowered and the tank is empty but still can't get the tank out past a 1/2 ". Pic above shows as far as I've gotten it.

 

You are probably right - it's caught on something... Wiggle, squeeze, push, pull until it's not caught - there is no more magic once you have removed everything in the DIY. See if you can get a dental mirror in there to look at it from all angles - it does come out!

 

Your saying, it slide out of the bracket 1/2 inch….Isn't it a bit more needed to clear the bracket? You have to slide sideways and after down...Here a picture old the broken bracket on my car and a tank attachment….

 

Excellent picture. Yes, you can see from the bracket that a movement of about 1/2 inch will allow the tank to be dropped right off the bracket. If you go too far, it will anchor itself again. You need to slide while pulling down so it drops out as soon as it clears the first set of anchors.

 

Its the age, not the miles. Great job on this DIY !! Mine blew at an inopportune time and left me stranded in nice clothes.

 

Thanks for the suggestions. In the end dropping the engine a few inches did the trick--the reservoir came right out. And since the engine was already down it made replacing the engine mounts easy.

The reservoir, cap, coolant level sensor and coolant cost ~$215 at Sunset; local dealership wanted almost $1200 just for the reservoir replacement.

Thanks again for the help!

 

Great job! Rep+ for your perseverance!!!