Thanks--it was a good learning experience...

 

I am in the process of doing the coolant tank swap out now. Couple of points to add on to this.

1 - If you have a 2001, you might have the first version of the fuel filter bracket that does not have the 90 degree tab on it. The first version is extremely hard to get enough leverage to pop it free. I ended up having to undo the clamp and slide the filter out first before prying the bracket off. - I would recommend ordering a newer style bracket for when you put everything back together - 99611025703

2 - There is a hardline at the bottom of the area where the intake distributor is that, once undone, will catch on the tank as you try to remove it. If you arent lowering the motor, this will be very tight and there is a high likelihood that your coolant level sensor will get caught on the undone line and might get damaged. I would recommend spending the 25-30 bucks and just get a new sensor - 99764150300

3 - To get the 3 bolts to the distributor, I used a short 10mm wrench on the bottom and the left as it is very tough to get a socket back there. It takes some elbow grease to break them free but they are very quick after that. Also, you do not need to worry about them falling as they are a part of the distributor casting.

4 - Think about if there are any other things you would like to replace or check on while you are doing all of the work as its a pain to take all of this apart so might as well do it all together.
I did the following
- Checked N75 valve - seemed in good order and did not show up on boost leak test so did not replace
- Replaced throttle body gasket - Its only 4 bolts once you have the y pipe off and $10. Seemed a no-brainer
- Replaced fuel filter - Supposedly its part of the 60k but it was there and probably the original one from 14 years ago.
- Get the most updated coolant cap - They are only 25-30 bucks and worth it not to have any other cooling issues to deal with.

BTW - Stick with OEM Porsche for the tank. They are 15x.00 from ECS. I tried another brand they had that was 107 and it looked clearly inferior right out of the box so I am returning it and already ordered the OEM one.

Will update more as I go.

 

I thought when the tank goes it is only the overflow/expansion so it shouldn't leave a person stranded as the car should run with the coolant that's in the rest of the system

 

If the leak allows too much water to escape the system, you are stranded. The overflow is necessary because the coolant expands and contracts based on temperature. It is a living, breathing part of the system - water is always moving in and out of the expansion tank.

 

when the "tank" needs replacing it results in hairline cracks that allow for seepage in addition yet separate from the "breathability" functionality that the tank is designed to allow.

*usually* an exp tank in need of replacement is yellowed with age and the hairline cracks will create visible, albeit "non catastrophic" leakage. the expansion tank never catastrophically fails like a coolant hose can.

if ever there is a condition resulting in massive coolant dump? stop the car immediately, and do not pass go. flatbed it.

 

Every car should have theirs swapped out by now. Mine was yellow and crusty at 60,000 miles.

 

Just got mine out ytd

Yellow and leaking


And new


Took around 6 hours
3hours of actual work 1 hour of waiting for epoxy to bond and 1 hour of trying to figure out why things kept catching and an extra hour of finding and fishing things dropped.

 

Oh, did I mention that you should drop the engine a little to make this a lot easier?

 

Lol yeah we did it without dropping prolly should have.

 

Nicely done!

 

Hello,

Does anyone know the torques specs for the three bolts that hold the intake diverter on?