Kevin, haven't I seen you somewhere before?

Yes it is twin plug, pressure sensing, Motronic. I am dialing it down to 0.8 for daily usage once I get my EBC, it is more than enough power.

 

yeah, you saw me on rennlist . i can't get enough of your car. the power it puts down at such low boost levels is amazing. truly is one of the best 993's i've ever had the privilege of seeing, even if it's just online.

sorry to hijack the thread a bit btw. craig and cjv and jean, you guys are buildling projects which are what a porsche aficianado can only dream of. i'm awestruck by each of them, and i follow the threads very closely. please keep us updated! good luck with your projects.

back on subject. those Stage VII turbos and jrz double-adjustable suspension sound interesting!

 

Hey Jean, You should start a thread on your fantastic 993 GT2 here as well. I'm sure that alot of 6speeders will be blown away with what you've accomplished.

 

Stage VII turbo's? Can you be more specific? I am assuming they are T4 Garretts. What is the A/R ratio of the housing (it is probably one of three) and what impeller are they using?

 

I believe all ZC turbos are non ball bearing... ( high presision bushings) the stage 5a flow up to 800 cfms (both)... with kevins progressive custom wastegate.
the stage 7s are I think in the k27 housing(cold) and probably k16 or k24 hot.
the stage 7s are good up to 1000 cfms(if i recall when talking to kevin).

 

this deff sounds like a interesting project good luck man.

 

Oh no, this is watercooled land here, my 8 year old car is no match Mmmm can't wait to get my hands on that GT800 EVO this week end...

 

Jean, your 993 GT2 sounds AWESOME! Would love to see pics and learn more about what you did (although it all sounds over my head).

CJV, I do not expect my car to be anywhere near 900 hp at 1.0 bar . . . thats your territory. My expectations are far less lofty. If I am able to reach 900+ hp (and that is only a guesstimate), it will only be at significantly higher boost levels (not quite Sharky's 2.0 bar, but somewhere in the 1.6 bar range). At 1.0 bar, I would guestimate that I will be closer to 800 hp (fw). Not in KA's ballpark, but it will have to do.

Markski is correct that the ZC turbos are not ball bearing and do not use Garrett housings.

Craig

 

Craig, why are you making the car so damn fast that the only way I could even consider keeping up is by throwing some hair dryers on my car too.

You are a madman. When it gets done, we've gotta go to the track. BTW I have a shop that can make you a cage for your car with porsche quality, but mustang prices. Let me know if you're interested.

 

Dr. Kasper has completed my engine and it is currently on a truck somewhere between Chicago and Los Angeles. It is scheduled to be delivered to Speed Gallery on Wed, June 2. If all goes as planned, I should have the car back a week later, and I can start the break-in.

Many thanks to Stephen for his enduring efforts and meticulous attention to detail!!!




After speaking with Stephen and Todd, I have also decided to go with EVO’s headers designed specifically for engines producing over 600 hp.

I received the JRZs, along with TPC custom sway bars and drop links. The rear sway bars are a beefy 30 mm, and the fronts are 24 mm.




I’ve been doing some research regarding engine break-in techniques (to supplement Stephen’s instructions). I’ve found some interesting articles.

http://www.overboost.com/story.asp?id=1250
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/869/index22.html
http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm
http://www.enginesonly.com/break-in.html
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I am eternally grateful to Stephen (IA), Dan (SG), Sam (SG), Tom (TPC), Kevin (UM) and Todd (EVO MS) for their invaluable contributions to this project!

Craig

 

Awsome write up! air cooled motors have been done a million times but to tackle the water cooled turbo motor its still somthing new to the community. Great detailed write up and hopfully your info will save future builders research and time. Happy boosting let us know how it feals!

 

What are you doing for front drop links?

 

Craig,

What does Stephen recommend for break-in? I should be getting my car back soon and would like to know.

Thanks

 

Stephen recommends varying the load, and heat cycling, for the first 300-600 miles, while keeping the engine below 4500 rpms and refraining from spooling the turbos. Kevin (UM) states that it is CRITICAL to not idle the car during the first 60 minutes. Rather, he recommends driving the car for 60 minutes immediately upon starting it for the first time, and varying the load/rpms between 40 and 60 mph, but without exceeding 4500 rpms. Dan (SG) recommends changing the oil after the first start, and again after the break-in is complete.

My plan is to start the car for the first time when traffic is not to heavy (3 am in Los Angeles), immediately drive to the freeway, and drive in the manner recommended by Kevin. I will use the gears, rather than the brakes, to vary the speed/rpms, in order to have a greater variance on the load. I plan to drive for a minimum of 60 minutes on the first drive. At the completion of this first drive, Dan will change the oil. Thereafter, I will drive in a similar manner for approximately 600 miles, then have Dan change the oil yet again.

Craig

 

yes make sure you chaneg the oil a few times when you get your motor back craig there may be contaiminanats that may hurt your motor in the long run... chaneg the oil a few time and try your hardest not to get in "full boost" mode when you get it back...