Turbo Swap DIY
Turbo Swap DIY
Does anybody have a DIY for swapping out a K16 to a 16g or k16/k24 hybrids?
Also ... what's the approx time for this? My shop is quoting me 8-10 hours.
Also ... what's the approx time for this? My shop is quoting me 8-10 hours.
8-10 hours isn't horrible, but it can be done way quicker as long as none of the studs break or strips. You have 3 on each header and 4 on each turbine outlet...How often does that happen? Umm almost never...but you never know
Not sure of a DIY, but it's pretty straight forward from a mechanical aspect. Having the service manual certainly helps. I replaced my stock K16s with K16/16Gs. With that upgrade also came yet another flash upgrade and a 5 BAR fuel pressure regulator. Total time was probably around 8 hours, but that's in my own garage taking my time. A Porsche service specialist should certainly be able to do it in less time than that.
Concur with the plug swap while you're "in there." Also, make sure you have all the parts necessary. I had several extra turbo studs available, as well as new hardware for the turbo install. All of that is relatively cheap in comparison to the turbos themselves, and if you don't have it on hand, you're sure to need it when you get started tearing things apart. The basics are . . .
Jack rear end (assuming you don't have a lift
Pull rear wheels
Remove tail lights
Remove rear bumper cover
Remove (thin) metal heat shields
Remove exhaust (if it's the OEM one, you may need 2 people!)
Remove turbos:
Pull turbo inlet / outlet hoses
Remove oil lines; getting them off can be a bi*ch (if you strip something, you're in trouble)
You'll need a long allen to get oil tank off / access is through the oil tank drain plug
You'll need patience and some dexterity to get to one of the upper turbo / exhaust manifold nuts. I think there are a total of 3 nuts. Soak them in advance with a good rust solvent (PB or similar) and hopefully they will come off without too much drama. Don't be surprised if the entire stud comes out of the turbo (hence having a few spares on hand along with some red locktite). Also, loosening the entire exhaust manifold may make disassembly / reassembly a little easier. However, you should not need to actually remove the header.
And the turbo should come off (in theory anyway).
Reassemble in reverse.
Also, don't remember exactly how I did it, but after getting the new turbos bolted up, I think I left the spark plugs pulled (with the the coils attached) and cranked the engine for awhile in order to build oil pressure and make sure the turbos had oil prior to actually starting the engine. You can also do check for any oil leaks at the same time.
Good luck
Concur with the plug swap while you're "in there." Also, make sure you have all the parts necessary. I had several extra turbo studs available, as well as new hardware for the turbo install. All of that is relatively cheap in comparison to the turbos themselves, and if you don't have it on hand, you're sure to need it when you get started tearing things apart. The basics are . . .
Jack rear end (assuming you don't have a lift
Pull rear wheels
Remove tail lights
Remove rear bumper cover
Remove (thin) metal heat shields
Remove exhaust (if it's the OEM one, you may need 2 people!)
Remove turbos:
Pull turbo inlet / outlet hoses
Remove oil lines; getting them off can be a bi*ch (if you strip something, you're in trouble)
You'll need a long allen to get oil tank off / access is through the oil tank drain plug
You'll need patience and some dexterity to get to one of the upper turbo / exhaust manifold nuts. I think there are a total of 3 nuts. Soak them in advance with a good rust solvent (PB or similar) and hopefully they will come off without too much drama. Don't be surprised if the entire stud comes out of the turbo (hence having a few spares on hand along with some red locktite). Also, loosening the entire exhaust manifold may make disassembly / reassembly a little easier. However, you should not need to actually remove the header.
And the turbo should come off (in theory anyway).
Reassemble in reverse.
Also, don't remember exactly how I did it, but after getting the new turbos bolted up, I think I left the spark plugs pulled (with the the coils attached) and cranked the engine for awhile in order to build oil pressure and make sure the turbos had oil prior to actually starting the engine. You can also do check for any oil leaks at the same time.
Good luck
Some other notes: Spray everything with PB Blaster the night before. Buy metric line wrenches. Replace the turbo oil checkvalves. <upgrade intercoolers
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Last edited by earl3; Mar 21, 2011 at 07:22 PM.
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