996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

K24 big misfire on boost - ECU safety function or coilpacks?

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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by prodigymb
throttle closing is car going in limp mode most likely. it would help if you psoted the actual logs. you need a tune if you are running after market WG actuators. having them is defiently a good thing and a worthwile upgrade, i wouldnt take them off. i just think your tuner needs to make "boost request" adjustments in your map that are in sync with your hardware.
First up: Thanks a lot! It's crazy how this works. Will for sure keep actuators but may have to dial them in a little different.

Somehow my durametric logs look funny, if I export from the main menu I get the same xls file every time. If I copy the BMP file from the graph "window" all you see is curves but no labels. Also can only log 8 signals at a time, so I have several logs taken but mostly with different variables to be able to cover and exclude lot of potential problems.

The car still runs normal after a "throttle limit" event and no CEL.
It was quick and dirty late last night so I'll work on the log export think, plus now I know what values to focus on (at the time being).

Re the boost setpoint, my tuner actually removed the boost requests completely when we were at the dyno, the wastegates definitely kept doing their own thing. However when I was at dyno I might have suffered bad sparkplugs so I have to go back there now that car has new plugs w correct gaps + 997 coils.
 
Old Jul 12, 2011 | 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by MrWhite
Good suggestion will log that. How did the fix it?

Also a question, what does that voltage output value represent?

The tech noticed the voltage gauge kind of bouncy @ 11 and tested the output of the alternator and found it wasn't a constant 13 - 14 , he said the maf sensors and other sensors need a constant voltage or it malfuncts?? Trying to remember exactly his explanation but its all greek to me they replaced the alternator and car runs like a champ! GL
 
Old Jul 12, 2011 | 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 2muchtime
The tech noticed the voltage gauge kind of bouncy @ 11 and tested the output of the alternator and found it wasn't a constant 13 - 14 , he said the maf snesors and other sensors need a constant voltage or it malfuncts?? Trying to remember exactly his explanation but its all greek to me they replaced the alternator and car runs like a champ! GL
It makes sense. Will check it.
 
Old Jul 12, 2011 | 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by prodigymb
throttle closing is car going in limp mode most likely. it would help if you psoted the actual logs. you need a tune if you are running after market WG actuators. having them is defiently a good thing and a worthwile upgrade, i wouldnt take them off. i just think your tuner needs to make "boost request" adjustments in your map that are in sync with your hardware.
Actually now I know what you mean. Reducing the curve when the hardware is doing high boost increases the deviation. He should match the setpoint curve to match the actual hardware boost build, thereby make the smallest possible deviation to not set off any limp/warnings. Gotcha. And once again thank you very much.
 
Old Jul 12, 2011 | 08:06 AM
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use rpm as X axis and boost setpoint as Y axis. do not graph the rpm. or just post raw excel numbers..
 
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by MrWhite
Actually now I know what you mean. Reducing the curve when the hardware is doing high boost increases the deviation. He should match the setpoint curve to match the actual hardware boost build, thereby make the smallest possible deviation to not set off any limp/warnings. Gotcha. And once again thank you very much.

exactly. since he is doing a custom tune anyway he should make you a file to work with your wastegates. i think the general concensus here is that they are a must on a K24 car to help you hold power to redline and also spool quicker. he should tune you car for 1.1 - 1.15 bar, and i would also add a 5bar fpr with that setup.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 09:44 AM
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What pressure does it take to open the wastegates? (ie when you hook up a pressure line, to just the wastegates and pressurize them, what is the pressure when they just begin to open?) How about 1/2 way?

Knowing how different this is from stock would help.... unless you already know the altered spring rate and plunger cross section....
 
Old Jul 12, 2011 | 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by prodigymb
exactly. since he is doing a custom tune anyway he should make you a file to work with your wastegates. i think the general concensus here is that they are a must on a K24 car to help you hold power to redline and also spool quicker. he should tune you car for 1.1 - 1.15 bar, and i would also add a 5bar fpr with that setup.
Got 5 bar (Bosch true 5bar, not a crushed/modified 3.8) and AFR looks really solid all the way through.

Thx re graph setup (or excel logs), when you say it it's the obvious x-axis (when not being tired and weary late at night after sealing a pentosin leak)

Agreed on tune now that I learned a bit what's happening, will try to get in there asap.
 
Old Jul 12, 2011 | 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by ard
What pressure does it take to open the wastegates? (ie when you hook up a pressure line, to just the wastegates and pressurize them, what is the pressure when they just begin to open?) How about 1/2 way?

Knowing how different this is from stock would help.... unless you already know the altered spring rate and plunger cross section....
Unfortunately I didn't have chance to check it like that, I only had means to physically pull the lever with an extension scale and the OEM K16 actuators move at 10.8kg whereas the K24 actuators move at 21kg pull (= twice as heavy). BUT the custom K24 actuator "houses" are a little bigger and with the increased area the pressure effect becomes much stronger so they are surely not twice as heavy measured in PSI.

But to really know for sure re the actuators I have to measure with a pressure device. They seemed to behave equal though from the way I could measure.

The logged 2200 hPa absolute pressure makes pretty good sense. Hopefully the car will run right once the setpoint boost curve matches the actuator boost curve closely.
 
Old Jul 12, 2011 | 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by MrWhite
U
But to really know for sure re the actuators I have to measure with a pressure device. They seemed to behave equal though from the way I could measure.

.
They make little hand operated pressure/vacuum thingies...

You should also sync them using pressure..if one side is different than the other, weird stuff can result. (Speaking technically of course...)

GL

A
 
Old Jul 13, 2011 | 08:23 AM
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I didn't take a new logs as I rather try to get it tuned now that I think I know what's going on.

This log doesn't have too many other relevant values (I was logging different things each run), but it clearly shows pedal value, actual throttle opening and actual boost. Would have been nice to also have set point logged in this graph to really show the deviation between setpoint boost and actual boost, but I have that in other files where I see the big difference.

Also lambda in those other files is solid at 0.73-0-77 through the whole wide open RPM range even though that would have been nice to show in this graph too.

What I can see here is that after actual boost hits above 2200hPA absolute (above appr 1.2bar) the throttle closes automatically and the ECU dials in the boost to the setpoint boost by throttle.

Will double check that actuators can open all the way (not only half way) before I get it on the dyno. Will post once the car has been adjusted on the dyno.

 
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by 2muchtime
very interesting thread, I have a very similar but more like a misfire only at 3000rpm on a easy accel, heavy through this range car runs fine? changed plugs and wires but no change? I feel your frustration Mr.White...
Sounds strange but have you checked the voltage output? A friend of mine had a similar on stock TT and found out the voltage output was way off causing it to feel blurping, on smooth accel it was fine? just a thought
Checked voltage supply and it was steady 13.5 +- 0.1 V and doesn't change with rpm. Thx!
 
Old Jul 13, 2011 | 08:28 AM
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BTW the boost deviation / throttle limitation does NOT throw a CEL and not even a fault code.
 
Old Jul 13, 2011 | 08:47 PM
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check when your gates open with a air compressor, you maybe set over the set point in the ecu. the N75 valve opens and nothing changes now the ecu starts closing the TB. Your tuner needs to loosen up some of the ecu safety preamiters. What is the timing doing?
 
Old Jul 13, 2011 | 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Tim941NYC
check when your gates open with a air compressor, you maybe set over the set point in the ecu. the N75 valve opens and nothing changes now the ecu starts closing the TB. Your tuner needs to loosen up some of the ecu safety preamiters. What is the timing doing?
Yep I believe that is exactly what happens.

Remember right now I am on a 100% stock X50 program including all safety functions, so not surprised. Also ignition map is bone stock X50 right now.

I found both a small compressor and a hand pump good for the actuator job. Now just have to find some time to plug it on and check the actuators so they are balanced and that the wastegates can also open fully.

Then dyno.
 


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