Need answer from someone who knows 100% sure.

Which hydraulic pressure line in the engine compartment goes to the TT clutch slave?

Background:
Got a pentosin leak in the "plugged off" (now leaking) pressure line after GT2 slave mod install has been on the car for just a week and a half.

It's such a pain to get to the plugged pressure line and try to fix the leak under the car (w/o dropping tranny) that I just want to block the pressure line back in the engine compartment. But I need to figure out which line that goes to the clutch slave in a normal TT clutch setup.

Thx!

 

Seems I can answer myself to some extent.

The bottom ones are merely return lines.
The top front line connects straight to/from the pump area.
The top rear one I suspect is pressure line to clutch slave (that has to be blocked somewhere when doing the GT2 slave mod).

Pressure to the steering rack seems to come straight from the pump house (not the tank).

If someone with very solid knowledge from this could chime in and confirm it'd be great.
Thanks!

 

Hey mr white, not sure if this helps but capping off the line at the power steering pump won't fix your dripping capped off slave line under the car. Here's why
When the drive coupler is removed from the power steering pump it stops all fluid from being pumped through. In other words the line is dead. All you are seeing is residual old fluid that remained in the line when it was initially removed from the slave. You can either a) let the little bugger drip until it runs dry or
b) crawl under the car and tighten it up.
I personally would crawl underneath and fix it as there are some coolant lines close to the slave line and we all know that pentosin will eat those rubber coolant lines.
Hope this helps and makes sense, let me know if it doesn't.

 

Thx yep it makes sense!

Mechanic left the drive gear coupler in so there was pressure.
Cleaning operation "major" took place. Will do it again to make sure the last residue from the leaky line is cleaned up.

It's 99% impossible to reach in and tighten.

So I capped it up at the reservoir to begin, it works.

Want to completely it and get rid of the drive coupler then also plug the whole reservoir lid so the reservoir "whine" control valve isn't in use anymore.

 

Ya think getting rid of the drive coupler should be high on your list. I worry(not sure if this is true) that if you leave the drive coupler in it will cause undo stress and pressure on the pump by forcing it to constantly fight to push fluid through a hose that's clamped shut. And we all know how expensive those pumps and reservoirs are.
But good luck seems like you got it sorted.

 

how about if you connect it back to the return line would that work

 

The low pressure lines have different connectors and generally don't seem to be able to handle high pressure.

There's a pipe coming from the pump with high pressure straight to the reservoir. I want to eventually block this and have no high pressure oil to the reservoir at all.

Finding the metric plugs is really difficult though.

 

thats how i have it now. maybe you could drill out old threads and retap it to a plug size you do have

 

I managed to locate a pretty good place today for some of the plugs.

Just annoying how one plug is 12mm and the other 10(!).
And the plug hole in the actual PS pump I have no idea, might be something else given the inconsistency so far on plug sizes.

Now just gotta collect motivation to dig down there, there's really no space to get access to plug the pump w/o removing a bunch of stuff as I see it.

 

i just looked and the line that goes to slave is the frist hard line with a on top and the return is the small hard plastic one

 

I wanted to add to this thread because i just did the delete to my car.

Follow the instructions to remove the drive coupler to stop the second pump for the clutch assist. Do a search and you'll find it.

using a 1/4"npt tap, i tapped and plugged the output from the back of the pump. Porsche feeds the pressure from here to the resevoir lid and then out to the clutch slave.



In this picture, "P" is the pressure input from the back of the power steering pump, "A" is the pressure output to the clutch slave, "T1" is the power steering return line and "T2" is the clutch return line.




You want to use a 1/8" NPT tap to thread into "T2" so you can use a 1/8" NPT plug to plug it. Use a pick to pull out the O-rings first. Only run the tap 3/4 of the way.

for "P" and "A", just find a nice plastic plug at the hardware store to plug them. At this point there is nothing running through them. Clean everything out with brake clean so any petosin can't eat your plugs.

 

When I was messing with these, I learned the threads are metric 10mm and 12mm. Very hard to find plugs. But any solution like re-threading will work if you don't plan to revert back to using the TT's power supported slave clutch again.

 

I have no plans to going back to the stock setup so i'm ripping all the lines out too.