First Track day, pads needed?
First Track day, pads needed?
Hello friends,
Now that I have the dragstrip, autox and other mexican activities out of the way, I am going to be attending a test and tune at a fairly fast track in about two weeks. I was wondering if changing just the fluid to motul rbf600 and upgrading to gt3 brake ducts would be sufficient for a novice group runner like me. If not, I was going to go with carbotech xp10/8's. Any other advice would be appreciated for a newbie
Mods are as follows:
EPL Flash, straight pipes, BBM ssk, Advan Neova AD08's.
Now that I have the dragstrip, autox and other mexican activities out of the way, I am going to be attending a test and tune at a fairly fast track in about two weeks. I was wondering if changing just the fluid to motul rbf600 and upgrading to gt3 brake ducts would be sufficient for a novice group runner like me. If not, I was going to go with carbotech xp10/8's. Any other advice would be appreciated for a newbie
Mods are as follows:
EPL Flash, straight pipes, BBM ssk, Advan Neova AD08's.
For your first day, I think the stock pads are fine as long as they are in good shape. You won't be pushing the car anywhere near its limits, in my opinion. (I know I didn't.) I have a tech inspection sheet from my last track day that I can probably dig up and send to you, if you want, that details the procedures that needed to be done for them to deem the car safe. (I'm told that these guys are oversensitive when it comes to safety, which is fine in my book. They've been known to black flag guys on the first lap for driving stupidly, sending them packing.)
i ate stocks in one track day
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#TeamAIM
997TT SilverSpool - 210.8 mph 1/2 Mile WR Apr 2019, 9.2 @ 168 mph 1/4 Mile Manual World Record , 3.15 60-130 mph , 2.72 100-150 mph , 1400whp E85
996TT SpoolBus - 204.6 mph 1/2 Mile 996TT WR Aug 2018, 9.5 @ 154 mph, 3.23 60-130 mph, 2.5 100-150 mph Manual Porsche World Record, 1400whp E85
997TT SlowBerry - 205.0 mph 1/2 Mile WR Nov 2018, 9.7 @ 170 mph 1/4 Mile , 3.2 60-130 mph , 2.4 100-150 mph , 1420whp E85
ESMOTOR | DO88 | TPC DSC | SYVECS | COBB | IPD | KLINE | XONA | AMS | ID | ERP | SACHS | TURBOSMART | CSF | DODSON |
Whether the stock pads are adequate depends a lot on you. These cars are fast and heavy, so they do tax your brakes. Newbies tend to be harder on brakes than more experienced drivers, because they tend to use them more to over-slow their cars. In any case, definitely change to fresh fluid. I use Motul 600, and it works fine for me, and it's a lot less expensive than Castrol SRF.
If you expect to do more DE's, I'd recommend getting Pagid RS-29 (yellow) in front, and RS-14 (black) in the rear. This combination seems to help brake bias.
Good luck!
Jon
If you expect to do more DE's, I'd recommend getting Pagid RS-29 (yellow) in front, and RS-14 (black) in the rear. This combination seems to help brake bias.
Good luck!
Jon
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Thanks
Rolando
I leave the RS-29 front pads in, because I have the GT3 calipers and I don't have a set of street pads for them. They are dusty, but don't make much noise in my car. I swap out the rears for stock pads. I just go out and put a few hard stops on them when I swap them back and forth.
No doubt that someone will tell me this is really dumb, but it seems to work fine for me.
Jon
Whether the stock pads are adequate depends a lot on you. These cars are fast and heavy, so they do tax your brakes. Newbies tend to be harder on brakes than more experienced drivers, because they tend to use them more to over-slow their cars. In any case, definitely change to fresh fluid. I use Motul 600, and it works fine for me, and it's a lot less expensive than Castrol SRF.
If you expect to do more DE's, I'd recommend getting Pagid RS-29 (yellow) in front, and RS-14 (black) in the rear. This combination seems to help brake bias.
Good luck!
Jon
If you expect to do more DE's, I'd recommend getting Pagid RS-29 (yellow) in front, and RS-14 (black) in the rear. This combination seems to help brake bias.
Good luck!
Jon
What track are you going to?
You need to check your pad level and make sure there is plenty left. The lower the pad level, the more heat gets into your brake fluid, the softer the pedal gets, the more likely you are to boil the fluid and have a brake failure. Especially in the summer time when it's likely to be hot. (Been there)
As Jon says, as a new driver you will likely be harder (meaning pressing as hard, but longer and over slowing for the turns which kills brake pads and builds lots of heat, which stockers are helpless against).
Yes, only takes about 15 minutes to swap out the front pads once you get used to it. But I doubt you need to with yellows (unless they squeal too much on the street for you, mine don't squeal at all). I would bet Yellows might last the life of the car on the street (no matter how many miles). Those things are beast!
But going back to stock is no problem, probably switch the whole set in under an hour (taking off and putting on wheels included).
Hi Rolando,
I leave the RS-29 front pads in, because I have the GT3 calipers and I don't have a set of street pads for them. They are dusty, but don't make much noise in my car. I swap out the rears for stock pads. I just go out and put a few hard stops on them when I swap them back and forth.
No doubt that someone will tell me this is really dumb, but it seems to work fine for me.
Jon
I leave the RS-29 front pads in, because I have the GT3 calipers and I don't have a set of street pads for them. They are dusty, but don't make much noise in my car. I swap out the rears for stock pads. I just go out and put a few hard stops on them when I swap them back and forth.
No doubt that someone will tell me this is really dumb, but it seems to work fine for me.
Jon
Thanks Jon,i'll do that....change both.
Once you have done it a couple of times, it will take you max 15-20 minutes per side (front and rear). Even faster if you have one of those TraqJunk gadgets to compress the spring holding the pads.
I have a little chunk of rubber that I cut from a truck mudflap that I put on the outside of the caliper and then use a pair of channel lock pliers to push back the pads.
Thanks HEAVYCHEVY ,do the yellow ones last as long as the stock doing tracking and street ?? I don't care the noise.
Yes, only takes about 15 minutes to swap out the front pads once you get used to it. But I doubt you need to with yellows (unless they squeal too much on the street for you, mine don't squeal at all). I would bet Yellows might last the life of the car on the street (no matter how many miles). Those things are beast!
But going back to stock is no problem, probably switch the whole set in under an hour (taking off and putting on wheels included).[/quote]
Yes, only takes about 15 minutes to swap out the front pads once you get used to it. But I doubt you need to with yellows (unless they squeal too much on the street for you, mine don't squeal at all). I would bet Yellows might last the life of the car on the street (no matter how many miles). Those things are beast!
But going back to stock is no problem, probably switch the whole set in under an hour (taking off and putting on wheels included).[/quote]
Whether the stock pads are adequate depends a lot on you. These cars are fast and heavy, so they do tax your brakes. Newbies tend to be harder on brakes than more experienced drivers, because they tend to use them more to over-slow their cars. In any case, definitely change to fresh fluid. I use Motul 600, and it works fine for me, and it's a lot less expensive than Castrol SRF.
If you expect to do more DE's, I'd recommend getting Pagid RS-29 (yellow) in front, and RS-14 (black) in the rear. This combination seems to help brake bias.
Good luck!
Jon
If you expect to do more DE's, I'd recommend getting Pagid RS-29 (yellow) in front, and RS-14 (black) in the rear. This combination seems to help brake bias.
Good luck!
Jon
Thanks everyone. I do tend to drive like a madman, so I will probably change my earlier decision and end up with track pads. Anyone have experience with Carbotech XP10's? They are a lot cheaper and about the same temps as pagid yellows. I have heard good things about them. As well as ATE brake fluid. Thoughts?
Ate has a lower bp than Motul, and they are almost the same price. I'd strongly recommend the Motul instead.
Jon





