'01 996 TT, 55,xxx miles, Fabspeed exhaust (only mod). I came from a STi that was putting down 520 hp at the wheels. I dyno'd the 996, and was quite dissappointed at the 320 awhp. Normally, I dislike these kinds of posts, but if you were building this car with a goal of ~550 hp @ wheels, where would you start?

My main reason for ditching the Subie was reliability, and emissions. I had to swap out injectors and the ECM every two years to get it to pass smog.

It still needs to pass smog with minimal effort. Swapping a chip or flashing the ECM is no big deal, but I don't want to go through any serious hassle to keep this thing legal.

I intend to use this as a weekend toy, and lapping days...maybe some open-road racing. TIA

 

a good tune, maybe k16 billet turbos, a 5 bar FPR and that's it...

 

Stock rated is 420hp (non X50) at the crank. To lose 100hp just from drive line losses is a bit much. I think altitude is working against you. With the stock K16 turbo's you'll be hard pressed to hit 500awhp. Hybrid turbos seem to get you close to the best of both worlds. Fast spool up and more top end. Bigger intercoolers (stock 997 fit with some minor mods). Don't know what Fabspeed you have but 100 cell cats are less restrictive. You don't get much out of headers (for the cost) but you can have the stock exhaust manifold inside flanges matched to the exhaust ports. Billet DV might hold a bit more boost and are more reliable. If you've got the money and location run higher octane gas. When you're done get a flash matched to your mods. Get a flash you can self mod back to a stock map to get past emissions. (GIAC and Softronic come to mind).

 

The dyno I use is a very conservative awd dyno with a 1.15 correction factor. Also, we left the drivetrain connected, and simply adjusted the bias to 70% rear.

What about supporting mods? Clutch? Axles?

 

You will need a stronger clutch but stock axles will be fine.

 

I would either do a Switzer or Markski package, as they will make 500 whp all day and do so safely, even w/ a higher mileage car.

 

You'll almost certainly need a clutch, but shouldn't need anything related to the axles.

 

330 AWHP is about right for stock. Markski has no-nonsense upgrades that forego the questionable stuff and concentrate on bag for the buck.

IMO you can't go wrong with any of the usual tuners. The most important thing is to get someone to install it all make it work well (adjust waste-gates, make sure there are no leaks, and work with the tuner to make sure the tune is working with your mods).

I'll bet he will recommend upgrading your K16s to billets (or doing K24/18g), Audi diverter valves ($80), a 5 bar FPR and a tune. Your next dyno with these mods should get you in the high 4xx range. Not bad for the $$. And over 200 HP increase at the crank

What kind of dyno was it? My car made 530 AWHP on GIAC's dyno

 

Hi guys
This is my first post, Loosing weight will help you.
Light wheels (BBS, OZ) reacro seats, ditching the all wheel and switching to RWD ( less load on the eng).
Take your time and do the math by calculating weight to power ratio.

 

I did a hair under 500 awhp on EPL's mustang dyno with AMS billet k16's, injectors, EPL tune and catless stock exhaust. Pretty basic setup. I'd like to hit 550awhp which should be possible with meth injection and/or 997.2 IC's and exhaust. And you'll definitely need a clutch for those power levels. I've got a Spec 2+ which Tony said is good to around 600 whp.

 

Harvey @ The Boost Creep is my boy. He built my Subaru. He's got a Dyno Dynamics AWD dyno that reads conservative numbers.

Thanks for all the suggestions. Being my first 911, there is a lot to learn before I dive in. The Subie weighed ~3400 lbs with fat-*** driver, so I know I'm close on weight. The 996 definitely has more low-end, much better handling, and looks better too. I just miss the fear-inducing thrust.

 

www.youtube.com/watch?v=i4rvcuUOXns