I have read tons on this and still trying to make a decision on what to change.

I have a new accumulator ready to install (No Slave.... $545 bucks, Ouch!), so that is why I am asking.

My symptoms point to the slave according to the manual, but I read so many conflicting accounts.


Symptoms:

1) After left overnight, clutch is hard, usable but hard.
2) Start car, clutch feels :sort of" normal
3) Drive car pedal feels a little hard(er) than normal SOMETIMES
4) While driving, push clutch pedal, seems sort of OK, release about half way and push down again feels like butter just as it should. (Till next clutch activity)
5) Repeat above still the same.
6) Clutch works fine all but not feeling "quite" right no gear crunching or such like.
7) Pedal height is full
8) No leaks at all

Trying to decide to try the accumulator first (easier under jack stands and ramps) I do not have a lift.

Can ANYONE please tell me from experience definitively if it is the slave and/or Accumulator. Not looking forward to changing both.

Ian

 

It is a lot easier to replace an accumulator than the complete slave. Try to replace only the accumulator and you will see....The problems we have seen so far with the slave was fluid migration from the steering pressure system to the clutch system overfilling the clutch reservoir.... Note: there are some new slave on Ebay for $420.00....

 

This same very thing happened to me yesterday as well. After driving the car normal i parked it to go into a restaurant, After an hour or so i came out and tried to start the car. I noticed the clutch pedal was so stiff i had a very hard time pushing it down. After reaching the floor it started, However putting it into any gear was impossible. While the car is not running i am able to put it into all gears. One thing that i did otice was that once it was started and in neutral i pushed in the pedal, as it traveled back up i heard a slight screeching rattle.

I put the car back into the garage afterwards, and haven't thought about it to much as of yet. I am hopping it is not a pressure plate or throw out bearing, I much rather just do a slave or accumulator...

After reading a few posts i would like to say for the record that there is no sign of pentosin in the engine bay or on the PS box or in the front bonnet in the filler tank there either???? <end rant>

 

Thanks for the reply, I get none of those symptoms. But I am concerned about this statement from the manual before I change the accumulator. And I agree, it is a lot easier which is why I am double checking.

"If the number of times the pedal was depressed is over 35, the accumulator is −arrow− faulty and must be replaced."

Mine does not last 1 let alone 35!

And This:

"30 01 01 Checking clutch booster circuit:

Checking the valve in the clutch save cylinder (2.1) is a direct measurement, while the valve in the
upper part of expansion tank cannot be directly tested (2.2)!
·
If there is no hydraulic clutch boost after a hold time of 24 hours, at least one of the two valves is
definitely damaged!
·
· Prior to the following check, ensure that the system is visually leak tight (externally)!"

I am concerned about the definitely bit. But it still seems vague to me.

Ian

 

The booster circuit test ask to remove a line from the steering reservoir and measure the amount of fluid, if any, bypassing a valve inside the slave. Never did that test even if I was going to do it the last time I've replace the slave. Like I've said before get yourself a cheap 27mm wrench, cut it, bend it like the one on the picture and you will be able to torque the accumulator easily... I had to use a 22mm wrench to remove the original accumulator and the new one was 27mm....

 

Are you saying you think it is the accumulator? I have the wrench. Just trying to avoid to do the job 2 times. Were my symptoms your symptoms for the accumulator?

Thanks

Ian

 

It is about the same amount of effort to do the GT2 conversion . . .. and you get a far superior result.

Tom

 

I agree - this might be a good alternative. I too am dealing with a failing slave and this will be the direction I go. I also, 3 months ago, just replaced my accumulator and now my slave is bad. Not saying this will happen to you. If I had to do it again, I would have either done the slave and accumulator or done the GT2 conversion.

Here is a cost effective version of the GT2 conversion - can be cheaper than a slave and accumulator!
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...uctions-4.html

 

Thanks, I have read that too. But I do not want to do that at this point. I just want to establish if an Accumulator will fix the issue I have now. I like the clutch feel the way it is (or was).

Ian

 

My advise would be to just do the GT2 conversion. You will never regret doing it but at some point you will regret not doing it.

 

I prefer not to. The car only does about 600 miles a year. Light street use to say the least. Currently I am at 7250 miles only since new. Cannot understand why the slave would be bad in that time. Accumulator yes but the slave????

I will most likely trade it for something else as I do not drive it much. Just waiting for the right car to pop up.

Ian

 

Based upon my experience with both parts failing my bet is its the accumulator. As others have said, once the accumulator fails the slave is usually soon to fail also.

My pedal is stiff at startup but I have zero fluid migration or leaks so I live with it. My clutch action is always sketchy from cold startups but I pump it up to build pressure and it works fine, excepting the startup stiffness.

I *may* gt2 convert, next time around.

 

I say accumulator. I had the same problem, actually mine never worked, and even passed a PPI from a dealer less than a week before I bought the car with only 14,750 original miles.

Jack up the car, I put jack stands under the rear only and a couple of 2"x8"x12" under each front tire to get them about 3"-3 1/2" up in the air. Disconnect a coolant hose retaining clamp and move the hose up and toward the outside of the car out of the way. Unscrew the old accum. and I had a double plastic bag to put it in handy to catch any oil spilled. I wiped the area with a wet clean rag to make sure no oil was in the area of rubber hoses. Screwed the new one on by hand, wrench tightened. Put coolant hose back in place. Done in less than an hour start to finish. Just about like changing a hard to get to oil filter. The new one will self fill, no need to bleed as a post I read incorrectly states.

Clutch is easy after sitting for days, smoother when driving and no juddery action depressing and releasing as before. Simple to do job. Hardest part was making my wrench tool. I have heard from 2 senior techs at the dealer, that slave may not fail just because accumulators did. Especially with stock clutches. Heavy duty pressure plates tax the slave more and they are more prone to failing.

 

My pedal is ultra stiff as of right now. you are giving me "hope" that is only the accumulator though. However y pedal is currently so stiff and unable to get into any gear, I am not leaking any fluid though....

 

Just had my whole system replaced today because I had leaking pentosin on the floor. Other than that it was working fine. Also did oil change, brake pads, and headlight restoration. Car is looking and driving great now but did cost me a bit of coin...