Front knocking 996TT
Front knocking 996TT
Hi there,
I'm getting some knocking noise from the front end whenever I go over some uneven bumps at low speed. The vibration can also be felt through the steering wheel. Moreover, unlike some of the other posts that I have read, mine does still vibrate and knock during braking. But strangely, whenever I am turning left or right at low speed, the noise and vibration coming into the cabin simply disappear completely and cannot be felt.
I have done my searching here and there and it is leading me to the front swap drop links or the control arms. But, since the last symptom of my car is slightly different to most posts I have read. Would any kind soul please point me in the right direction in how to tackle this problem.
Many thanks
I'm getting some knocking noise from the front end whenever I go over some uneven bumps at low speed. The vibration can also be felt through the steering wheel. Moreover, unlike some of the other posts that I have read, mine does still vibrate and knock during braking. But strangely, whenever I am turning left or right at low speed, the noise and vibration coming into the cabin simply disappear completely and cannot be felt.
I have done my searching here and there and it is leading me to the front swap drop links or the control arms. But, since the last symptom of my car is slightly different to most posts I have read. Would any kind soul please point me in the right direction in how to tackle this problem.
Many thanks
Thanks PAULUNM, it does not cause any sound when I am turning full lock and not making any noise when I am driving at higher speed. It makes that knocking noise whether the car is cold or warm. But it is a light knocking (tapping) noise and certainly not a v loud one. And, if I go over a speed bump with both front wheels together, the knocking noise is v v minor and often non-existence but if I go over a speed bump on one side, the noise is definitely there.
I agree drop links (sometimes bad, loose or even wiggled off) or the rubber in the upper spring perches. Especially if it does it when going over bumps evenly. Drop links you can check from under. Should just be firm and tight, rubber intact. Upper mounts you may be able to see cracking when you remove all the plastic including the silver dollar sized cap between the three upper suspension bolts at the top of the strut tower.
Sam
Sam
I agree drop links (sometimes bad, loose or even wiggled off) or the rubber in the upper spring perches. Especially if it does it when going over bumps evenly. Drop links you can check from under. Should just be firm and tight, rubber intact. Upper mounts you may be able to see cracking when you remove all the plastic including the silver dollar sized cap between the three upper suspension bolts at the top of the strut tower.
Sam
Sam
What do you think?
thanks
Trending Topics
You need the whole front up because the sway bar is connected to both sides and will bind if one wheel is on the ground. It should really be done on a lift. Also the upper mounts can still be bad once removed and inspected. What you CAN do if you like and are mechanically inclined is this. Not the best but safer and an option.
Do this on one front side first:
Remove wheel and place under car for safety. In-case jack fails you will only need to paint a wheel not smash a body part. First inspect all joints and parts. Then undo the entire drop link and remove it. replace wheel and make sure you torqued it properly and drive the car. See if the noise is gone or changed. Your sway bar will now not be connected on both sides and is under no load. If the sound changed you can remove the other side and see if it is in fact gone. Feel free to email me or call. I'll help if I can. samahdoot@gmail.com 31060018five0
best
Do this on one front side first:
Remove wheel and place under car for safety. In-case jack fails you will only need to paint a wheel not smash a body part. First inspect all joints and parts. Then undo the entire drop link and remove it. replace wheel and make sure you torqued it properly and drive the car. See if the noise is gone or changed. Your sway bar will now not be connected on both sides and is under no load. If the sound changed you can remove the other side and see if it is in fact gone. Feel free to email me or call. I'll help if I can. samahdoot@gmail.com 31060018five0
best
Thanks for all the advice!! I am quite certain the drop links are the culprit of the noise and possibly the lower wishbones making the v light creaking noise.
Has anyone tried the K sport drop links? Oh yes, and they are adjustable too. Will they last better than the stock's thin and skinny drop links? I am on fully stock suspension.
Link to these end links
http://www.ksportusa.com/asp/endlink...roduct_id=el01
Has anyone tried the K sport drop links? Oh yes, and they are adjustable too. Will they last better than the stock's thin and skinny drop links? I am on fully stock suspension.
Link to these end links
http://www.ksportusa.com/asp/endlink...roduct_id=el01
Last edited by niceguy; Mar 12, 2012 at 09:03 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Enemy
Automotive Parts & Accessories For Sale/Wanted
9
Nov 10, 2015 08:01 AM
bmwtmx
Automotive Parts & Accessories For Sale/Wanted
1
Aug 26, 2015 07:26 AM






