Ok I followed BRNDRTNS' instructions to the T and it worked perfectly. Spoiler functions exactly as it should, test driven 150mph+ just in case. No fault codes. HOWEVER, I have one minor edit: There are actually 4 tiny T-8 screws on the micro switch, not 3. The forth one is hidden in the middle of the switch. I took the three off and it wouldn't budge, so I tried prying it and my instincts told me something was amiss (this doesn't happen all the time, unfortunately, LOL) It was hard to see so I put my phone in selfie mode and got a good close up picture of it and there it was.


Other than that, the process was pretty smooth; not nearly as bad as I feared. Thanks for the info and all the contributors to the thread. Much appreciated!

 

Excellent, let us know if it hangs in there! Did you use the stop leak along with the Pentosin?

 

After 10,000 miles and 3 years of sitting, my rams have bled out enough fluid to fail once again. I think most of it leaked out during the 3 years my car sat as a project. They worked fine before I scattered my motor. I am going to re fill them with a thicker oil this time, maybe gear oil with the stop leak. I still have my old bottle of Lucas Oil stop leak at least.

 

Sorry for the delayed response...


Actually, I just used a bottle of Prestone power steering fluid with stop leak. It seemed excessive to spend 50 bucks on a quart of Pentosin and Lucas stop leak for 10 or 20ccs of fluid, plus I didn't have to screw around with mixing, etc. After all, this isn't exactly a high-stress application. I have noticed a tiny bit of weepage since I did it six months ago, but still no codes and it still goes up and down evenly. I'm probably not helping myself by parking it with the spoiler in the up position, but I just like the way it looks with it up when it sits in my garage. Worst case scenario I'll have to do it again in six months, but now that I have the process down it's not that bad of a job.

 

Just for your information, there is now a new solution for fix and repair the hydraulic system. Ultimate Motorwerks is coming out with a rebuildable LIFT cartridge and replacement for the pump internals....

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...epair-kit.html

 

JP, the link doesn't seem to be working for me

 

Sorry , just made the correction!



https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...epair-kit.html

 

nice write-up. thanks!

 

Glad it helped you. I just filled her up with 75% 15w40 and %25 stop leak. The mix is pretty thick so we'll see if I can get 5 more years out of it. I hope it isn't too much stress on the pump.

 

I fixed mine late last summer with stop leak and pentosin mix. Just cleaned some residual fluid off of the end of the ram and the cap a couple weeks ago. Checked it today and it's completely dry. My leak is gone!

 

7+ years on two rebleeds. 50/50 pentosin and stop leak. last time i had to do it really fast because i took a break from banging some guys wife while he was re-filling his spoiler wings rams.. with boring fluid lol.

 

WTF you on the turps again ?

 

i was referencing the previous posters sig line and my contribution was no less inane.

i'm on whatever's layin around, what ya got? lay it down.

 

Oops, didn't see his signature.

Now let me see what l've hot laying around.

 

Did my first refill/bleed today and wanted to say thanks to those that posted their experiences here.


One thing to note... Make sure your pump is vertical (hose connections up) and below your filling jar with the "open" hose ends. If not, you won't get the air out of the pump reservoir and will have the privilege of bleeding again.



BTW, I found this easiest by removing the entire lid and left the wing attached. No need to separate the wing or remove the actuators. I did my bleeding on my workbench in my climate controlled basement instead of the 100F garage using a $22 12v lawn & garden battery from WMT. Used an old bottle of 11 I had from my clutch/slave conversion. Took about 2 hours start to finish -- including some rework.