Doing a PPI tomorrow at a Porsche dealer on a '01 Turbo. Anything specific I should ask the mechanic to check for me??? I'm sure they are more than familiar with these cars but I'd like to be prepared none the less. Thanks guys!

 

pay a little more and get a compression check on the motor..

 

Do not ask the mechanic to check specific things, ask him what he will check and post the list here for comment.

My WAG is he'll probably use the CPO check list, which is pretty extensive.

This will not involve a compression check.

This is really a waste of money. More on this below.

What you should do, or if you are unable to do this then the person doing the PPI, is drive the car!

I advise -- and this is based on conversations with Porsche techs and my experience with engine controller systems -- a 15 mile test ride then afterwards, back at the starting place switch places with the driver and cover the same route as a test driver.

The route should give the seller the opportunity to demo the car's behavior in a variety of driving conditions. And when you drive the car it gives you a chance to experience the car in a variety of driving conditions.

You want to give the car, the engine, its population various sensors/controllers, the emissions system, everything, a chance to manifest any problems.

As for a compression check: While the engine is running the DME constantly measures the acceleration imparted to the flywheel during every power stroke. If this speed is too little (or too much) the CEL is turned on and one or more misfire error codes are logged.

At the same time the DME runs through a series of tests/checks to make sure 6 or more subsystems: misfire, knock, converters, O2 sensors, vapor recovery, and a few more; systems are operating within acceptable limits.

Of course, when you first visit the car with the engine dead cold, you make sure the CEL (and every other warning light) comes on then goes off when the key is turned to engine start and the engine fires up and begins to run.

Sincerely,

Macster.

 

There is no such things a a 'standard porsche PPI'...no criteria, always different.

I recommend:
1. Porsche CPO checklist- completely filled out, using the same criteria
2. Paint and Body work inspection- note tht a CPO allows paint and repairs, which are OK- you just want to know how extensive
3. Dump the DME for codes and over-revs

Depending on all that, maybe a comp/leakdown... problem is this adds $600. You could ask the seller "If I have them do plugs at the same time, and decide to not take the car, will you at least pay for the cost of the plugs (parts only)?"

GL

A

 

I've never, ever heard of a Porsche dealer doing a CPO checklist without being told/insisted upon.

At best they give it a cursory visual, and that is it. tires, brakes, leaks- sound, driving. Done.

 

Try to find a Porsche Instructor or an aggressive driver with Porsche seat time and let him do the first 15 miles circuit as suggested by Macster. Porsche dealers sometimes have mechanics walking around with that background. Grab one.

 

have them check:
*Around the power steering pump, look for leaks.
*Around the front mounted radiators, look for leaks.
*Clucth accumulator is a common problem.
***Have them check the hard coolant lines that come off of the motor (I think there are 8), these are the actual fittings that the rubber coolant hoses attach to. They're glued in from the factory and on these older cars that glue is wearing out and these hard lines are getting spit out of motor. The one behind the alternator is a common one to blow and if it does, then the alternator too should be replaced as it will go bad soon thereafter. (probably the biggest concern with these older cars if they have not been fixed already)

*Check the coolant tank, common for them to leak.
*Have them do a boost leak test. Pressurize the system and spray over the motor with soapy water and look for bubbles.
*Check for leaks on the rear spoiler hydraulic cylinders
*Check for Rear Main Seal leaks (not common on Turbo's but worth the check)
*Check Wheel bearings.

 

Great advice! Thanks!

 

Question about the Rev Range report, range 1 was 8588 and range 2 188. Was told it is no big deal. Is it?

 

What are the total operating hours and when (number of hours) were the last Type 1 and Type 2s registered?

You can convert hours to miles by using 30-35 mph (VERY roughly).... so if more than 30 hours ago that is about 1000 miles before- enough that any damage might have manifested itself.

Those numbers are not horrific.

Are they giving you anything in writing?

(Bet not)

GL

A

 

Sounds like a good thing to have checked is the transmission mounts for tearing/wearing as most used cars are at the age where this can/has occurred. It should be pretty easy to spot if they have the car on the lift.

 

in addition to everything above i would ask them if they have a paint meter they could use to confirm all the paint is original

they did that for me without being asked, after it was done he spent 20 minutes on the phone with me going over everything, was a great experience (sadly when i bought my audi the place it took it to were useless, they bascially kicked the tires and told me its fine, the guy didnt even want to talk to me ! )