would love to know this as well. What is the safe number where rods are not being crunched?

 

Powell made more than 860whp on stock motor.

 

wow.....highly highly doubt tony would bring it anywhere near there but thats some good reference info for sure.

 

pshh i can see why that video only got 112 views lol.

no numbers - no care. although his car IS yellow, thus it must be fast

yup u made 860-870 which is ALOT. thing is you made it on lazy turbos that helps the rods and also for how long were u on stock motor? how many races and abuse miles? Were rods straight when they came out?

i dont think one can beat on a car for say 6-12 months at 860whp power level on stock rods/headstuds.

he won't. make sure to have everything running clean, no boost leaks, no plug/coil issues - those things make tuning frustrating and lead to dissapointing days.

 

Hi Paulie,How much HP/TQ did you make on the rear wheel dyno video? Thanks

 

Mark we could have made torque sooner. Remember I had 5857's... You on the other hand wanted 800+rwtq at 3500 RPM. Which is stupid. I also beat the **** out of my car more than most people in this thread. You would laugh at how many times I would go and try different methods. Probably 3k of the 6k miles on that setup were on MS109 if not more. I may have some of my receipts still if you would like to see. I also ran it for over a year FYI.

About a month before the motor coming out when i destroyed 3rd gear we made 840rwhp in 90-95* weather (we went out on the lake right after) on 26psi. During that month I had a BAD BAD BAD tank of gas that I limped the car around on, second tank didn't help, then added some 104oct and pinging was gone. Next day I blew up third.

Motor came out with 4 bent rods and 2 slightly slightly bent, but engine builders quote "there are no score marks or sign this is new, they look like they have been for a LONG time". I've talked to other companies who have witnessed the same thing (car makes power right before motor comes out and rods are bent).

Tony and I worked together, along with Justin, on the stock DME. We made 810rwtq on one pull and Tony sent me a file taking the torque right out of it. We all went in this project knowing something will break. Just when/where/how. Even with the standalone we did the same. Both have said they would never let a customer do what I did. You all don't realize how we are with the car. After we took out and reinstalled the motor for some cleaning up. ONE single line leaked. We dropped the motor replaced EVERY SINGLE LINE in the car, pull plugs randomly to check, etc. I don't see many owners who understand the real time/etc. spent on BIG BIG hp builds. It's not easy beat on it every day and never break.

 

I didnt know how long you ran it for so I was just honestly asking to get an idea how much abuse your stock rods took. I already knew what the answer was going to be to your rods (coming out) question, cuz I've seen it first hand and so have many others. They will bend at that power level and that's a fact. Once they bend naturally its only a matter of time before they break, once they do thats where damage gets bad. Chris Greens rods were bent when they came out from running in the 700s whp and wtq

I know what you are talking about, I replace my plugs and wideband O2s sensors every 3,000 miles.

Here is what my rods looked like after 700hp/tq power levels lined up straight on a bridgeport. few were a few mm off.... others dead straight..

There was absolutely no damage to the cylinder walls or anything else. Fact is that these rods are not strong enough for big power and will eventually give out you and i knew we were going to open our motrs up and put rods in them.

For people that do not want, do not plan, do not/can not spend the money to crack the motor open and fix/upgrade parts - I never recommend running over the 700/700 numbers on good gas. Above that its a different level of modifying.

Im sure when you saw your rods you realized that your motor was a ticking time bomb with a lot less left on the timer then I had on mine when I took them out

 

I only have one half *** pic of mine, but you should be able to tell which are the bad ones. Yes one was missing at the time of the pic



Like I said I don't recommend this to anyone. I never rush things and I try and buy the best as much as I can. I've made a lot of dumb decisions on this car. After this race and I send off my Tilton for new disc's my new intake will be slapped on. I'm making sure its done all pimped out like.

 

Powell,

Was that power level on a stock 996 intake manifold?

 

Yup stock 996TT intake and TB.

 

You will want the full blow through, YB, Y pipe, and plenum to get the most out of these bad boys.Together they made a big diff on my car. The alphas shine up top, no doubt, but the other mods will enable you to make big power at lower revs....you will be making a bunch of hp/torque at 3800.

Oh, and my dear Paulie, isn't 5:34 in the morning a little early for drinking the hateraid?

 

Hey Guys,,You big league guys might know the answer to this question?
Can K24 /20gs with all the supporting mods come fairly close in HP and TQ in the Upper RPM powerband if both were on motors with stock internals and tuned not to worry about early self destruction??
Thanks..

 

I think you can get to 700rwhp with 20g using all of the bolt ons.

 

Yes, I know this to be true. Even more actually.

 

1,4 bar boost is enough for a stock engine.....maybe with big turbos 1,5 bar is possible but at this point you are at the knife edge for my understanding..what ever power level you get with that boost.....camshafts are not efficient over that boost especially exhaust side . Rods be at this level at 1,5 bar even in a overload phase