track brake setup on a budget
#16
What pads are you running on the street ?
Thanks.
I used 350 mm ft and rear Girodisc 2pc slotted on all four and kept my stock calipers but ran yellow Pagid RS29 in front and Blacks in rear. I did not upgrade my ducting but do use the Motul high temp fluid.
Only for the reason to bring some what of a balance to an after market rear spoiler which is larger than stock, I got the oem aero lip up front which seems to direct air in a more aggressive tunnel to the front brakes but I have no proof of this.
The above set up was est $2,000 for four corners of rotors and another $500-600 for pads. I did my own labor so saved a bit there.
I have zero complaints on the set up and it has been very confidence inspiring at TWS(texas world speedway) coming off a 145-155 mph straight into an 80-90 mph sweeper turn 1.
Good Luck.
Only for the reason to bring some what of a balance to an after market rear spoiler which is larger than stock, I got the oem aero lip up front which seems to direct air in a more aggressive tunnel to the front brakes but I have no proof of this.
The above set up was est $2,000 for four corners of rotors and another $500-600 for pads. I did my own labor so saved a bit there.
I have zero complaints on the set up and it has been very confidence inspiring at TWS(texas world speedway) coming off a 145-155 mph straight into an 80-90 mph sweeper turn 1.
Good Luck.
#17
One time I swapped a new set of oem for street but since the car over the last year became track dedicated, I found it was a waste of time to go through the whole process and just kept the yellows ft and blacks rear. By close to the half way mark, the fronts quite down alot and after any kind of track work out even if it is just 1 25 min session at my home track, they stay quiet for some time.
I just be care full and brake very early on the street and try bring some heat into them but again, mostly it is hwy driving to my home track or any of the 3-4 hour tracks I visit from time to time.
#18
Yep will be flushing fluid as well- suspect I cooled things considering the condition of my fronts. I was also planning on having my rotors repainted , but will save that for next rotor swap. Also picked up an AMB direct wire timer, looking at a HANS, and an OMP suit.
Should have picked up bird watching or crochet for a hobby
Should have picked up bird watching or crochet for a hobby
#21
All you need is:
High performance brake fluid, RF650 is excellent.
Disconnect the PSM entirely (this is what normally overheats the brakes bc the core PSM is jabbing at the brakes a lot even with the switch off)
High performannce pads with metallic content. Endless MX72 pads will transform the TT brakes to what they really are = massive, efficient, race brakes.
But you have to do all three or it will not work properly. The Turbo brake setup is good for endurance racing on GT cars with slicks, albeit you are carrying a few hundred lbs more in a road going TT - but on the flip side I assume you don't run 90 minute long stints with only refuelling pause, for 12 hours straight.
Upgrading the rotors and calipers is not necessary, unless for show.
Anyone tell you different it's bc they want you to buy a brake kit.
Oh, and after a hard track day, bleed the calipers, inside and outside. Depending on conditions and how much and how hard you drive and especially based on what tires you run, you might even have to bleed mid-day.
High performance brake fluid, RF650 is excellent.
Disconnect the PSM entirely (this is what normally overheats the brakes bc the core PSM is jabbing at the brakes a lot even with the switch off)
High performannce pads with metallic content. Endless MX72 pads will transform the TT brakes to what they really are = massive, efficient, race brakes.
But you have to do all three or it will not work properly. The Turbo brake setup is good for endurance racing on GT cars with slicks, albeit you are carrying a few hundred lbs more in a road going TT - but on the flip side I assume you don't run 90 minute long stints with only refuelling pause, for 12 hours straight.
Upgrading the rotors and calipers is not necessary, unless for show.
Anyone tell you different it's bc they want you to buy a brake kit.
Oh, and after a hard track day, bleed the calipers, inside and outside. Depending on conditions and how much and how hard you drive and especially based on what tires you run, you might even have to bleed mid-day.
Last edited by MrWhite; 10-30-2012 at 01:54 PM.
#22
Swapping out the stock rotors as the cracks are starting to run and the Sebros fit right in without changing too much more. This new setup should help slow my porker down during our 30min runs.
By the way Mr White- I LOVED those Ventus TD tires... incredible grip!
By the way Mr White- I LOVED those Ventus TD tires... incredible grip!
#23
All you need is:
High performance brake fluid, RF650 is excellent.
Disconnect the PSM entirely (this is what normally overheats the brakes bc the core PSM is jabbing at the brakes a lot even with the switch off)
High performannce pads with metallic content. Endless MX72 pads will transform the TT brakes to what they really are = massive, efficient, race brakes.
But you have to do all three or it will not work properly. The Turbo brake setup is good for endurance racing on GT cars with slicks, albeit you are carrying a few hundred lbs more in a road going TT - but on the flip side I assume you don't run 90 minute long stints with only refuelling pause, for 12 hours straight.
Upgrading the rotors and calipers is not necessary, unless for show.
Anyone tell you different it's bc they want you to buy a brake kit.
Oh, and after a hard track day, bleed the calipers, inside and outside. Depending on conditions and how much and how hard you drive and especially based on what tires you run, you might even have to bleed mid-day.
High performance brake fluid, RF650 is excellent.
Disconnect the PSM entirely (this is what normally overheats the brakes bc the core PSM is jabbing at the brakes a lot even with the switch off)
High performannce pads with metallic content. Endless MX72 pads will transform the TT brakes to what they really are = massive, efficient, race brakes.
But you have to do all three or it will not work properly. The Turbo brake setup is good for endurance racing on GT cars with slicks, albeit you are carrying a few hundred lbs more in a road going TT - but on the flip side I assume you don't run 90 minute long stints with only refuelling pause, for 12 hours straight.
Upgrading the rotors and calipers is not necessary, unless for show.
Anyone tell you different it's bc they want you to buy a brake kit.
Oh, and after a hard track day, bleed the calipers, inside and outside. Depending on conditions and how much and how hard you drive and especially based on what tires you run, you might even have to bleed mid-day.
All things being equal, on tracks that are brake killers, 6 pistons will give you more time with firmer pedal though, but braking is not improved initially. What we need is more rear brake bias, those things are NOT BEING USED AT ALL. I've had a new set of rear rotors in my garage for 18 months and have changed rear pads twice in almost 3 years of track only.
Aren't those endless pads super expensive?
#24
Endless advertises them for $330 front and $330 rear on their European Car application sheet but I think they used to be more expensive.
I have a brand new set sitting in my garage if anyone needs a pair.
(1)EIP071ME20
(1)EIP072ME20
Re 6-piston yellow brakes they are known to be a tad better, however the trade-off is that those pads usually are a lot thinner so one would have to change pads more often. Most European track junkies swap to the red brakes to they can go run Hockenheim, Spa, Nuerburgring etc and not change pads all the time. Plus rotors are cheaper when it's time to change those.
Etchead; Glad to hear it! It's impossible not to love those tires, what they do to precision, turn in, traction, overall grip on a Pcar. How man sessions / laps did you run on them so far?
I have a brand new set sitting in my garage if anyone needs a pair.
(1)EIP071ME20
(1)EIP072ME20
Re 6-piston yellow brakes they are known to be a tad better, however the trade-off is that those pads usually are a lot thinner so one would have to change pads more often. Most European track junkies swap to the red brakes to they can go run Hockenheim, Spa, Nuerburgring etc and not change pads all the time. Plus rotors are cheaper when it's time to change those.
Etchead; Glad to hear it! It's impossible not to love those tires, what they do to precision, turn in, traction, overall grip on a Pcar. How man sessions / laps did you run on them so far?
Last edited by MrWhite; 10-31-2012 at 01:53 PM.
#25
I was only able to use them at Infineon last month and drove them up as well. I checked with Hankook and they said run them pretty hard for the drive up/down and then adjust at track for proper pressure and they will hold up just fine without heatcycling. I intended to use them at Thunderhill last week but the weather forecast of rain scared me off. In the end they would have been fantastic as it dried up mostly... but the drive home was a monsoon. The V12s howled/slid on the track but got me home just fine despite no front brakes!
#27
I'm not ready to split the set. Front and rears belong together and the rears will be needed to give that rear engine "anchor" feel that makes you hang in the belts.
#29
No they're not. They're a direct swap for the 996 GT3. The rotor has a 2mm different offset than a 996 turbo, so your rotor and pads will not be centered in the caliper
#30
Thanks for confirming this. I've noticed a lot more higher end cars are going with solid vented rotors. I was hoping these were direct swap as I don't really care for crossed drilled since they make more noise than solid and the slotted rotors are still pretty expensive.