I'm running them. I like them. The caveat I'll give though is that run meth which cools beyond what an intercooler can do.

They flow well enough for 650 whp+.

 

ah yes! You DID send me his files awhile back, very detailed THANK YOU! I went with SRM's intercoolers which are a different core but the duct instructions should come in VERY handy! The cores I've got match the existing ducting size-wise but the thickness is increased. I'll be able to skip modifying the lower duct as the position won't change but the instructions for sectioning the top duct should be very handy. Links in that thread are DEAD although the file host will gladly send you crap files. Steve and I both have the PDFs if anyone wants them.

Interesting that he butted the two ends together and didn't do a slip fit like many others do, he cut higher than I expected. He also modified the frame which it looks like I'll be able to avoid. Sean's coolers drop into the frame no problem with the hose connections being in the right place and pins fitting - if I were leaving off the top ducts I'd be done! However the core is thicker so it sits up higher and I have an interference with a tab on the body that appears to be slightly different than on his car. Easily fixed and sectioning the upper duct ought to get everything together. I'll try a slip fit and Ed's scoring technique, it should look like Marek's setup although glass seems to be the better way to seal them together when done.

 

easy enough to rivet them and finish the fit then either glass them or try some home depot wetherseal at the cut.

 

Clearly my arts and crafts skills suck! Cut the first duct and it's obvious a sawzall is a poor tool for this even with a fine tooth. A rotary cutoff tool would likely be a far better choice. I'm going to attempt to fit the duct and measure, a fiberglass bandaid may save this job. Slipping one duct half inside the other is also proving a little tough although the bottom duct splits open a bit to allow it. Test fitting for height will happen after I get some hardware, probably pickup some fiberglass too. Once the trial run on the passenger side is done I'll disassemble the driver's side and do it over again lol! Gotta' run wiring for the temp sensors on this side too...

 

i just used a hacksaw blade with the end wrapped in duct tape for a handle.

 

Power tool was a poor choice, lesson learned! I'll see how this goes and cut the second one for this side if I must. I think I can salvage this but the other side has no backup so I'll have to be doubly careful.

 

anything you cut can be repaired with fiberglass. stick it inside and get your height. glass it as thick as needed and install it. once the bumper is on you never see it. heres mine. didn't care what it looked like as long as it fits and it does.

 

Agree! I've not gotten back to it yet but I'll get it set right and glass it well. I can make it pretty afterwards. Fabrication is obviously not my strong suit so this will be interesting. If I can get it mocked and marked it'll come out fine. There's something to be said for Mark's service of cutting ducts!

 

heres what I do... the 3.5s I make ran a sub 6 second 60 to 130s on a k16 billet car and a low 5 second on a A28s. The 4.5" I make made over 1000 HP on cars in Texas as well as 1200 whp on a 997 in Kuwait... I have been using these and doing pretty well at the 1/4 mile strip as well One of my german clients with a 3.8 L on A 28s at high boost on the autobahn is very happy on the top end ... logs galore..
just sharing... and back in the early 2000s when most were just throwing X 50 ICs on I was on the ground playing around with my 4.5" cores... core quality, fabrication, end tan design and flange cnc precision is the key...
best
markski


3.5 vs 4.5 ICs

 

Your parts look beautiful, Mark. I have no doubt that these ICs work well.
One thing I would be interested in, though: weight.
Could you provide weights for the 3.5" and 4.5"? And could someone with the Bell cores provide a weight as well?
I can get a weight on the GT2RS ICs.

Not much sense in removing the glove box lid to save weight and then installing ICs that weigh 15lbs more. They would have to make up for quite a bit in perfomance - especially considering where that weight is located.

 

I'm curious, what exactly do you define as "quite a bit"? How much power exactly do you think say 25lbs might cost?

 

RS are lighter no doubt and no AM can even come close. I think the benefits of quality ICs outweighs the weight disadvantage. Mind you, my 996 now had 6" monster ics, heady hta 3582s with heavy 44 mm wgs and headers. I still do pretty well at the track
You pick and choose I guess. Some guys throw on heavy 19" rims and tires and kill the power and or traction etc. but added light weight seats. It is what it is.

 

No probs seeing the benefit of good intercooling - I've been turning wrenches on Porsches both professionally (in another life) and as a hobby for going on 30 years (wholly poop! Can't believe I can say that! )

I am only interested in straight line performance as a method for testing / measuring engine performance. I am building a street/trackday car. Just trying to get a handle on how much difference it would actually be.

That is a bit hard to quantify. Reduced cornering speeds, reduced (subjective) handling quality vs. performance gains.

 

This is a recent log after beating the crud out of my car for 80 miles or so and then doing a few WOT runs... IATs up a little with rpms... ETS Intercoolers

http://datazap.me/u/groupamerica/wot...=0&data=1-7-21

NB car is also on E70 on this run so that helps as well

 

here is a problem when trying to compare... every car has XXX set up and just becasue YYY IC is doing KKK temps doesnt mean it will do the same on another car... thats why alot of this comparison is null and void. Not to mention most are just looking at intake temps as a measure of added value... I beg to differ but that's me.... I had 4.5" bar n plates on my car that I fabbed up 11 years ago.... and have gone ther and back many times...