Folks….
Before I get criticized by the seasoned members on the forum, I did try and read up everything I can about MAF's and other associated issues.

It started of with starting my car in the mornings 5 or so minutes before I leave for work. I started hearing it hunt while idling. Just about the same time I started getting ABS/PSM lights coming on…

Later it really started idling rough. I also noticed (My car is a TIP) that when it is warm and I put it into park the revs went up to 1300 RPM. In gear it stayed at 800 RPM. Out of gear and AC on it also idled at 800 RPM and as soon as I switch the AC off the revs went back up to 1300 or higher RPM.

All this appeared to me as a Vacuum problem.
I took it to the dealer who hooked up his laptop and showed me the error code and said it was the MAF. Tail between the legs I went home and started reading up on MAF failures. (Oh he did reset the error code and then all of a sudden I only got 0.7 Bar boost instead of 0.9 Bar I had before. This weekend when I did the tests on my MAF I took the car out to warm it up and then it appeared as if the boost returned to normal again..

I read that the MAF should read (Warm engine but not idling) about 0.9 – 1.1 Volt between PIN 5 and earth.
Motor idling it should read about 1.4 Volt.

Mine read 0.984 Volt on but not idling and….
1.36 Volts idling at 800 RPM and 1.43 Volts at 1300 RPM.
This to me seems very acceptable. What do you guys think?
Perhaps I should clean it in any case.
I read that some guys here treats the MAF as a normal disposable user item and if suspect it gets thrown out…. Smile….

Where would you experts and knowledgeable folks direct me to?
If it is a vacuum leak, where and how do I look for it?
Oh, it might add no value to this issue but when I tried to back out of my garage yesterday after the car has been standing for two weeks I noticed I had no vacuum assisted breaks until such time as I drove it for about 100 meters..
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance..

 

The dealer ran the codes and told you it's the MAF. I would replace it and report back.

 

bad maf. every time my maf fails ( i fry them regularly w old 1.2 cargraphic tune w raised 7200 rev limit ) the telltale sign is an idle hunt 800 up to 1000rpm, then back up/down. switching on the a/c will reduce idle back to 800 but it doesn't fix the maf. just replace it, don't bother cleaning. it's a diode. you can't clean a fried diode, but you can clean the wires that connect it. for what, it'll just fail again.

i have found that $42.00 MAFS from ebay work just as well as the new oem bosch. they still will fry if hit with a volt spike from increased voltage owing to a raised limiter and/or higher power level. don't know about tips or stock tt's, but i imagine the foregoing applies.

 

Thanks for the advice guys. I will keep you posted. No other advice out there?