996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

996 TT Water Pump Replacement DIY

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Old Sep 4, 2013 | 08:56 PM
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nice write up and thanks for posting

does this require a lift or can this be done with jack stands and a jack?
 
Old Sep 4, 2013 | 08:59 PM
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Out of interest what is the price range for a OEM new replacement pump installed, coolant flush etc at a Porsche dealership and and Indy shop.
 
Old Sep 5, 2013 | 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by smistry007
... does this require a lift or can this be done with jack stands and a jack?
I did it quite easily with jack stands. You can see the jack in step #10 and I have a couple of jack stands under the frame on each side for safety (not visible).
 
Old Sep 5, 2013 | 08:42 AM
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Nice job and thanks for the write-up. I am going to need to lower my engine a few inches soon for another job...you don't need to remove any trans mounts or anything? There is enough slack in the system to keep the trans bolted in place while lowering the engine?
 

Last edited by cburke996; Sep 5, 2013 at 09:05 AM.
Old Sep 5, 2013 | 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Cowtown10
Out of interest what is the price range for a OEM new replacement pump installed, coolant flush etc at a Porsche dealership and and Indy shop.
Answered my own questions, lowest price was $1400 and the Pcar Dealership was $1200 just in labour plus the $500 pump.

So I am buying the OEM pump/gasket for $400 and DIY. IT looks fairly straight forward but I am concerned about dropping the engine a few inches as described...any tips or other pitfalls to watch out for or torc spec on tightening everything back up?
 

Last edited by Cowtown10; Sep 5, 2013 at 02:57 PM.
Old Sep 5, 2013 | 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Cowtown10
...any tips on where to locate the floor jack or other pitfalls to watch out for?
Step #10 shows exactly where to put the jack. I use a puck to minimize any effect on the finish on the engine casing. It is really not that hard, just be very careful when releasing pressure in the jack not to let the engine free-fall. You can loosen the nuts holding the top of the rear mount and practice moving the engine up and down 1/2 an inch if you want to perfect your technique before removing the nuts completely.
 
Old Sep 9, 2013 | 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Cowtown10
Answered my own questions, lowest price was $1400 and the Pcar Dealership was $1200 just in labour plus the $500 pump.

So I am buying the OEM pump/gasket for $400 and DIY. IT looks fairly straight forward but I am concerned about dropping the engine a few inches as described...any tips or other pitfalls to watch out for or torc spec on tightening everything back up?
I just lowered my engine this past weekend for a different job. It really was very easy. Those two bolts are all you need to remove. The tech manual says lower a max of 30-40mm. torque specs for the botls: 63 ft-lb
 
Old Sep 9, 2013 | 08:09 PM
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Thanks for this. It came in handy today as my pump started leaking and I had to replace it. Rep added!
 
Old Sep 10, 2013 | 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by cburke996
I just lowered my engine this past weekend for a different job. It really was very easy. Those two bolts are all you need to remove. The tech manual says lower a max of 30-40mm. torque specs for the botls: 63 ft-lb
Good to hear...still sweating this a little bit...

Any other while I'm in there things I should be looking at or thinking about swapping out?? I am going to replace the serp belt as well, the car doesn't run hot at all so not going to touch the thermostat...any thing else to consider?
 
Old Sep 16, 2013 | 04:06 PM
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Got the old pump out. And as I suspected there are pieces of the impeller broken off. Should I flush the entire system? Or just top it off? There is Green coolant in the car now any recommendations on replacement coolant?

Does anyone have a schematic of the pump assembly? Or have a link to it. Of the 7 bolts securing the water pump to the engine 2 are different and I messed up the order so want to double check where the 2 odd ones go.

So far so good though.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 04:20 PM
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This shows where one of the bigger bolts goes... (#5. I don't know why the others aren't listed?!?!)

 
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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 08:05 PM
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New pump in and the car is back together. Thanks SLIDER great write up, easy DIY...

This should be my last question, there is green coolant in the car and it was just put in there after the coolant hoses were welded a few months ago.

Can I just top up the system with distilled water and get it to a shop to change out the coolant?
Changing it out my self sounds like a huge PITA

Thanks
 

Last edited by Cowtown10; Sep 16, 2013 at 08:52 PM.
Old Sep 16, 2013 | 10:22 PM
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If you have a specific gravity tester, you could test to see what temperature your coolant is good for and decide if adding water would still allow it to work for the winter you are expecting. If you coolant is green, it's not the stock Pentosin - it should be pink.
 
Old Sep 18, 2013 | 08:43 PM
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The coolant is actually yellow not green, once I put it against a white background it is pale yellow, so I believe the OEM Mercedes coolant. Went to the Indi Porsche shop and he gave me a gallon to top up what I lost from doing the water pump

It'll be back on its feet tomorrow
 
Old Sep 18, 2013 | 11:20 PM
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Best of luck - I hope all is well...
 


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