What should I prepare for with an exhaust swap?
I myself would change out all the studs and nuts without question.
They are a metric size M8 x1.25. The stock studs are 30mm long with 10mm section that goes into the turbo and a 4mm shank and another 16mm threaded section.
Also I would get nordloc lock washers which would necessitate a little longer stud if the flanges on the aftermarket exhaust are thicker then factory. Here is one web page with some stud info just FYI. http://catalog.automotivefasteners.c...s/metric-studs it shows both 30mm and 35mm long studs and many more.
Here are the Nord Lock washers. They seriously are the chit for exhaust type flanges. Not 100% necessary just a very very good touch to hold your exhaust on. http://www.nord-lock.com/products/mu...wedge-locking/
I would use stainless steel nuts to, hey they are, you guessed it, M8x1.25 as well.
The turbo flange dounuts are reuseable many times but if they are bad they are done and do you want to be waiting for such a part down in the U *** Eh. <-- That's Canadian speak for America.
They are a metric size M8 x1.25. The stock studs are 30mm long with 10mm section that goes into the turbo and a 4mm shank and another 16mm threaded section.
Also I would get nordloc lock washers which would necessitate a little longer stud if the flanges on the aftermarket exhaust are thicker then factory. Here is one web page with some stud info just FYI. http://catalog.automotivefasteners.c...s/metric-studs it shows both 30mm and 35mm long studs and many more.
Here are the Nord Lock washers. They seriously are the chit for exhaust type flanges. Not 100% necessary just a very very good touch to hold your exhaust on. http://www.nord-lock.com/products/mu...wedge-locking/
I would use stainless steel nuts to, hey they are, you guessed it, M8x1.25 as well.
The turbo flange dounuts are reuseable many times but if they are bad they are done and do you want to be waiting for such a part down in the U *** Eh. <-- That's Canadian speak for America.
Ck engine light
Hi All,
I don't know about anyone else but immediately after changing my exhaust system from stock to a Fabspeed with 100 cell cats I have had a check engine light. We tried relocating the o2 sensors more out of the air stream which didn’t help. And still haven’t got the problem resolved
Codes are the usual
P0410
P1411
I know they are secondary air faults and may not even be directly related to the exhaust change, but it happened at the same time. Could even be a vacuum leak. I have no clue.
My “Indy” who sold me the exhaust system says there is nothing I can do about it.
I’m not trying to hijack this thread, just letting you know that I had problems. But I love the sound.
Regards,
George_B
I don't know about anyone else but immediately after changing my exhaust system from stock to a Fabspeed with 100 cell cats I have had a check engine light. We tried relocating the o2 sensors more out of the air stream which didn’t help. And still haven’t got the problem resolved
Codes are the usual
P0410
P1411
I know they are secondary air faults and may not even be directly related to the exhaust change, but it happened at the same time. Could even be a vacuum leak. I have no clue.
My “Indy” who sold me the exhaust system says there is nothing I can do about it.
I’m not trying to hijack this thread, just letting you know that I had problems. But I love the sound.
Regards,
George_B
Last edited by george_b; Jul 22, 2013 at 12:45 PM.
I myself would change out all the studs and nuts without question.
They are a metric size M8 x1.25. The stock studs are 30mm long with 10mm section that goes into the turbo and a 4mm shank and another 16mm threaded section.
Also I would get nordloc lock washers which would necessitate a little longer stud if the flanges on the aftermarket exhaust are thicker then factory. Here is one web page with some stud info just FYI. http://catalog.automotivefasteners.c...s/metric-studs it shows both 30mm and 35mm long studs and many more.
Here are the Nord Lock washers. They seriously are the chit for exhaust type flanges. Not 100% necessary just a very very good touch to hold your exhaust on. http://www.nord-lock.com/products/mu...wedge-locking/
I would use stainless steel nuts to, hey they are, you guessed it, M8x1.25 as well.
The turbo flange dounuts are reuseable many times but if they are bad they are done and do you want to be waiting for such a part down in the U *** Eh. <-- That's Canadian speak for America.
They are a metric size M8 x1.25. The stock studs are 30mm long with 10mm section that goes into the turbo and a 4mm shank and another 16mm threaded section.
Also I would get nordloc lock washers which would necessitate a little longer stud if the flanges on the aftermarket exhaust are thicker then factory. Here is one web page with some stud info just FYI. http://catalog.automotivefasteners.c...s/metric-studs it shows both 30mm and 35mm long studs and many more.
Here are the Nord Lock washers. They seriously are the chit for exhaust type flanges. Not 100% necessary just a very very good touch to hold your exhaust on. http://www.nord-lock.com/products/mu...wedge-locking/
I would use stainless steel nuts to, hey they are, you guessed it, M8x1.25 as well.
The turbo flange dounuts are reuseable many times but if they are bad they are done and do you want to be waiting for such a part down in the U *** Eh. <-- That's Canadian speak for America.
Where did you source the hardware? Im in Calgary.
Ill just get the gaskets from South Center.
Thanks
I made my own out of stainless in the end.
What did you order for an exhaust?
Hi All,
I don't know about anyone else but immediately after changing my exhaust system from stock to a Fabspeed with 100 cell cats I have had a check engine light. We tried relocating the o2 sensors more out of the air stream which didn’t help. And still haven’t got the problem resolved
Codes are the usual
P0410
P1411
I know they are secondary air faults and may not even be directly related to the exhaust change, but it happened at the same time. Could even be a vacuum leak. I have no clue.
My “Indy” who sold me the exhaust system says there is nothing I can do about it.
I’m not trying to hijack this thread, just letting you know that I had problems. But I love the sound.
Regards,
George_B
I don't know about anyone else but immediately after changing my exhaust system from stock to a Fabspeed with 100 cell cats I have had a check engine light. We tried relocating the o2 sensors more out of the air stream which didn’t help. And still haven’t got the problem resolved
Codes are the usual
P0410
P1411
I know they are secondary air faults and may not even be directly related to the exhaust change, but it happened at the same time. Could even be a vacuum leak. I have no clue.
My “Indy” who sold me the exhaust system says there is nothing I can do about it.
I’m not trying to hijack this thread, just letting you know that I had problems. But I love the sound.
Regards,
George_B
if okay your secondary o2 sensor tolerance can adjusted to tollerance a 100cell
secondary air system failure are often a def divertervalve/do a leak test on both sides vacuum and pressure side
Last edited by winnigt2; Jul 26, 2013 at 02:29 PM.
Looks pretty straight forward.
Ill let you know when it's on and we can go for a drive
You will love it. Not sure if you have seen this thread, but it may give you some nuggets reference straps and emissions:
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...w-exhaust.html
Still love mine! Enjoy!!!
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...w-exhaust.html
Still love mine! Enjoy!!!
You will love it. Not sure if you have seen this thread, but it may give you some nuggets reference straps and emissions:
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...w-exhaust.html
Still love mine! Enjoy!!!
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...w-exhaust.html
Still love mine! Enjoy!!!
Do you have the links handy to bumper removal?
I would not. The opposite is true and it seems like the problem is the bolt/studs seem to rust/gall themselves together and removal is more the issue then nuts loosening. I personally use anti-seize on the threads when I re-assemble.



