I took apart my spoiler rams and pump. My rams are working fine but my pump rotates and does not extend the rams.
After disassembling the pump I found out that the electric motor is functional but the main shaft gear is broken at the connection to the electric motor (poor design).
I am thinking of welding the two parts together.
If you have a broken pump that has a shaft intact please let me know.
If your motor rotates and does not elevate the rams you may have a broken shaft too. Note the motor rotated for about 30 seconds, probably because it could not reach a stop.

 

If the 997tt pump is the same...?

 

Not sure. If you like you can unbolt the four hex nuts at the end. Tap the motor in until the whole system is out.
I searched the net and could not find any images of this assembly.

 

You may want to check the hydraulic rams that lift the spoiler. A lot of the failure to the pump are caused by a ram that starts to leak (which may not be readily apparent due to the construction of the rams), but cause the wing to go up a little crooked. When the wing goes up crooked, it can get in a bind, causing a lot of stress on the pump parts.

Later, Steve

 

I assume that the sensor on the right ram sends a signal to stop the pump motor's rotation. Thus, if the sensor is broken the pump will not stop and will break its internal components.
Also if the right ram is leaking and not extending it could cause the same problem. ie continuously activating the pump without the stop signal.
Not so much the left ram, as it does not seem to communicate it's extension.
Too bad the pump's electric motor can not sense excessive resistance and stop it self.


Not sure how to check the rams without the pump functioning. They look visually clean with no signs of leakage.

 

This thread has more pictures of the assembly and shows another way this system can fail. https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ifference.html

There is a big problem if your fluid is low because the sensor that stops the motor from spinning is only engaged when the spoiler gets to the top. If the spoiler does not go up - the motor will keep running until something breaks. This thread has illustrated, yet another way, for this system to fail. Usually it's one of the plastics parts that breaks.

 

They should have installed the the sensor inside the pump so once you reach maximum extension the pump stops and the same on the way back. Then if the rams did not work it would have been a caused by the lack of pressure.
Who is the manufacturer of the pump? Why dont they sell parts?

 

I agree - it would have been better engineering. You can only get the parts as a complete unit from the dealer (they call the whole assembly - a pump). There is a company that rebuilds them, but I think you have to buy the whole unit from them as well.

 

After seeing your post on rebuilding the carbon fiber block, this should be easy to weld.
I think I will frame the whole system between wood blocks before I weld it, so the motor and shaft are aligned correctly. Any suggestions?

 

Yes, the end of the screw with the slot fits absolutely perfectly in the washer (that I suppose was to stop it from breaking like yours did) so make sure when you weld, that the screw/slot ends up being the correct diameter for the washer to fit over. I suppose you can always grind it down after to make sure it still fits properly. For that matter, you could probably even weld the washer end on there too.

... and make sure you completely refill the hydraulic fluid before you light her up again.

 

I was planning on leaving the washer and the ball bearing out. I cant assign any function for these parts. Instead I plan on overbuilding the welding, to have full encapsulation of the motor tab. I hope it would be stronger then the washer. What do you think?

 

That sounds like a good plan. From the look of your failure there must be quite a bit of force exerted there. The only way that could happen would be for the screw to stop turning while the motor is still pushing. When you disassembled the parts - where was the brown plastic piece? (Top or Bottom) If it was the bottom - your fluid was low or "spoiler up" pressure switch failed, if it was the top - the pressure switch for "spoiler down" must be toast. I would think that if the block was at the bottom, the plastic would have broken before the metal screw.

 

I finally finished it. The pump pushes the pistons well beyond their stop point. The motor stops and reverses its polarity when it reaches resistance.
Note the pistons in the pump push out only the force of retraction comes from the springs in the Rams. Very important because it can not be used to draw up fluids into the lines. The best way I found for filing the lines was to fill the pump and push the solution into the lines and Rams while allowing gravity to refill the pump with air that was in the line or Rams.

 

I could not weld the motor to the screw, the heat would have damaged the motor and the black plastic block. I squared the end of the screw. Then I
made a wax pattern of the connecting piece and cast it in metal (dental lab technician did that for me cost $50).
By the way this same part can be fabricated using my measurements and milling it with a CNC milling machine and Aluminum block. cost $180
Attached are photos of the fabrication and diagram:

 

Nicely done!