Tried search first but... Trying to identify wiring bunch IN car. Here is what is bundled together, some are twisted together some single:

Twisted
Blue/Brown and Blue/Red
Yellow/Brown and Yellow/Red
Green/Brown and Green/Red
Purple/Brown and Purple/Red

Single
Blue with Purple
Thin Black and Red
Lavender and Gray
Black and Yellow
White and Blue

Heavier
Orange
White
Red and Black
Brown

I can figure out the head unit side of this but Porsche's selection of colors is where I'm having trouble to match them up. The weird thing is the driver rear at the speaker is white and white/brown The passenger rear is blue and blue/brown, etc. Anyway, if someone can chime in or direct me to the "color chart" I would greatly appreciate it

 

What year is it that you have ?
If you have the MOST bus then it is a pain with the Bose system

 

it's a 2001 Non-Bose/MOST, had a Becker and now I have a kenwood to go in

 

If memory serves me right then it should use the same harness adapter as the VW/Audi from Scosche. You might try that, it would make like a little easier

 

I have an 01 and removed the stock radio myself. Here is what I made up to do my wiring. If you need anything else, I probably have that too. The speaker wires are properly coloured - except the Sub (the car didn't come with one).

 

Slider, That is a great diagram thanks for posting it. Curiously I pulled both reqar seaker covers and one was white/white & brown other was Blue/Blue & Brown, but, at the head unit connection there are pairs of Blue, yellow, green, and purple.....no White no Red.

I'm thinking that I might just scrap all of it and rewire in 16g myself. It will be a PITA to feed the wires but I would know it's done correctly. Of course that means pulling carpeted and trim panels etc but at first look it seems the factory wiring is a rather small guage to begin with.

 

Ah, OK - I see where you are now... The speaker wires go to the AMP - not the head unit. Now, I have (/had) OEM Nav. Check and see if you see something under this cover in the front trunk...



If the Non-Nav radio uses the same wires, it should look like this:


Here is the Porsche Wiring Diagram:

 

so, assuming there is an amp buried under there and the six speakers are wired (12 of them) into the amp there are only 8 that come from the amp to the head unit for speakers. Blue = Passenger Rear, Yellow= Drivers Rear, Green = Drivers Front and what I call Purple = Passenger Front each has positive and negative. Are the mid-bass doors already wired in series to the fronts? AND, is it better to combine the negative leads of Driver dash Driver Door passenger door and pasenger rear all to the driver side dash ground at the Head Unit which looks like what is in the schematic. Wouldn't it make more sense to take RR to RR and RL to RL, etc. For example the blue/red is the RR positive and the Blue/Brown is the RR Negative, shouldn't that just match up with the HU RR +&-???

 

can't tell if the photo is a Kenwood but it looks like you matched + to + and - to - for each of the four speaker set leads?

 

I think you need to back up a little bit (at least if I'm understanding what you're trying to do).

From what I gather you're doing the following:
-Pulled out OEM becker
-Replacing with aftermarket headunit
-Trying to connect low-level RCA output from new headunit to the original harness that used to connect to OEM Nav to OEM amp?

Am I correct?

Were you not able to get a Metra cable to do the conversion for you? I'm pretty sure they make a Metra harness for this and that would by far be the easiest.

However, if that's not what you're doing and you're trying to run powered speaker output from the new headunit into the "speaker wire" behind the oem unit, you're going to run into problems. There are no powered speaker outputs going from your oem headunit directly to speakers, they all run low-level to the DSP/Amplifier.

The OEM becker sends low level signal (RCA signal) to the amp in the front trunk you've already found. But built into the OEM amp, it also has a DSP as a signal equalizer and then splitting them to according channels for the amp output. You'll need to make sure the DSP is getting power as the signal has to go through it in order to make it to the amp. I swapped from an OEM nav to an OEM becker 220 (should have been a straight plug & play swap) but the DSP wasn't getting power and wasn't playing nice, so I just swapped in an aftermarket amp and was done with it. So just warning you, the oem DSP may not play nice and be a big headache for ya. Or everything could fire up right away =)

I just did all of this, and I personally feel the best way to do this is:
-Use the RCA cables that used to go from OEM headunit to the CD changer in the trunk
-Connect RCA out from new headunit to the CD changer cable
-Unhook CD changer RCA's and use it as source plug into aftermarket amp
-Run speaker out wire from the OEM amp to the new amp in the same location
This runs a front only setup (doors and tweeters), but that's what I prefer anyhow. You could splice the signal into 4 as well and just not have a different signal for fade if you really wanted front and rear.


Also, just for your reference, from the amp to the speakers, there is a dedicated speaker wire to each door speaker, and then is a dedicated speaker wire to each dash pod with a resistor that filters out lower frequency for the tweeter. I.e. 1 speaker wire to each door, 1 speaker wire to each dash (but the midrange and tweeter are on the same wire with just a frequency filter). All of these wires come from the output side of the oem amp though and are thicker cables (~16 gauge or so).

 

Oy, yes I have pulled the Becker out and somewhere along the lines I have lost (cut) the connecting harness. There are as I mentioned above 4 sets of twisted leads that I assume come from the amp somewhere under the bonnet. instead of these connecting to the Becker I'm looking to hook up a Kenwood dnx9990hd. the receiving harness has connections for the four channels (Front Rear Left Right) and of course the power and grounds. Shouldn't these connections be the same right rear to right rear, etc... Am I thinnking about this wrong?

 

I "think" what I have coming out of the giant hole in the dash now is the wires that go from the head unit TO the amp. The reason I say this is that the actual wires on the speakers themselves are set in different color combinations than what is in the dash. Wouldn't it make sense if only the old Becker came out that this was the 'input' to the amp and the actual wires to the speakers FROM the amp are buried behind the dash and trim. So if not trying to wire to the speakers but wire into the amp does that make it less complicated if I'm explaining myself. If the wire harness out of the Kenwood had a connector that mated with the old connector in the dash isn't connecting the wires the same thing as matching the plastic connectors together.

 

This is what I was trying to say. From the headunit the only cables you'll see behind the dash are RCA low-level cables TO the Amp. From the Amp are a different set and different colored set of cables that go to the speakers.

Due to your issue, that's why I was suggesting your best bet may be to ditch all the cables and use the CD changer RCA cable to run your source audio to your amp. But you'd need to be using an aftermarket amp to do that.

 

If you had OEM Nav, there is no way to get the old AMP to play nice with the new head unit. It will be expecting you to transmit the unlock code which you cannot do with the new head unit. I'm not sure how it works if you didn't have Nav.

The speaker wires all go to the AMP to to the head unit in the dash. MGBT72 summed that up nicely. Put your amp where the OEM AMP was or the OEM CD Player and the speaker wires will be close at hand. Then you just need the RCA cables from your new head unit to the AMP. I added a new set of rear speakers in addition to the subs. That gave me 2 channels for front (old front and door) and 2 for rear (old rear and new rear). You decide about whether to put them in series or parallel by the speaker resistance and what your AMP can handle.

You should have 6 sets of speaker wires (Front, Door, Rear) X 2.

 

what speakers are people using to upgrade the low range door speakers that will fit in the factory speaker enclosure? i wouldnt mid enlarging the hole slightly; but deff do not want to go crazy or remove it.

not trying to hijack but expand.

thx