I am looking to purchase my first 911 and I have found 2 cars that are very similar in every way except the year. One is a 2001 and the second is 2002. I see that the engine displacement was increased from 01 to 02 but what are the other differences? I plan to do some minor mods. Looking for mid 500 horse. Any suggestions?

 

02 - glove box and no bumperettes
you'll still have the same problem as the 01-05's though..

what are you going to do about this ...



just ****ing with you fellas.

 

With most all other factors (mileage, condition, PPI, etc.) being pretty equal, I'd lean to the newer year. I believe all 996TT's were relatively solid but I believe some things like bumperettes were removed in '02 along with some interior / dashboard changes. You already mentioned displacement. I'm not a huge fan of first-year models and have learned my lesson from them but again, the 996TT's were pretty solid no matter which year.

 

LOL... I would be stressed about getting into a 997 model but with a new/first baby boy on the way, it's no longer a goal. I love the fact that I at least chose a Turbo and can retract my roof as opposed to being 'couped' up all the time. j/k too.

 

Is there anything in particular I should look out for? A local dealer told me I should have it inspected before I purchase.

 

There is one difference. The 01 is a manual. The 02 is auto.

 

Paying for a PPI (Pre-Purchase Inspection) from an independent and competent third party is always a good idea. Trusting the seller (dealer or private party) to dish all the real faults on a car puts you completely at their mercy.

I am not trying to say everyone selling something is going to screw you, but information is power. Empower yourself.

 

Any recommendation for an inspector in the Chicago area?

 

Auto or manual is up to personal preference.
It is my understanding that both transmissions can take the power levels you seek (mid 500 horse at the crank) without issue.

Row-your-own for engagement and greater participation in the driving process.
Auto if you want pure quickness and a car that anyone can step into and drive on the offchance you want to share. Being able to transition through gears without lifting (staying in boost) is a secret bonus of automatics that rarely gets spoken of.

That being said, every car I have owned has been a manual. Take that for what its worth...

 

I have an '04 996 TT Cab with Tiptronic. Running at about 550 hp. No issue with the Tiptronic as it's the same transmission as in SL65 which has over 600 hp.

 

AFAIK there was no engine displacement increase from 2001 to 2002 for the 996 Turbo. The engine started out a 3.6l and remained a 3.6l all through the model run.

Only you can answer the question Tip vs. manual.

As for which one to buy, all other things being equal the newer one.

What to look out for?

Everything. Either car is just a used car.

Visit the car cold. Be sure the CEL comes on when you turn the key to on and goes off as the engine starts and runs.

Listen to the engine idle as it warms up. The engine could sound a bit ragged (VarioCam Plus (low lift) coupled with an overly rich mixture to warm up the cats) but as the engine (converters) gain heat the engine should smooth out and the idle speed drop.

Continue to let the engine idle as you walk around the car.

Have the seller take you on a test ride, 15 miles, and drive the car in a variety of ways. You pay attention to how the car sounds, feels, how the engine sounds, runs, and how the tranny (manual or Tip) shifts.

Pay attention to the manual for any signs it wants to come out of gear.

Watch the oil pressure gage. Hot idle wants to be around 1 bar to 2 bar. At 3K RPMs and above the oil pressure should be at least 3 bar. Generally the rough rule of thumb is 1 bar per 1000 RPMs. But remember the oil pressure gage is not the most precise gage around.

During the ride (and later during your drive) watch the boost gage under hard acceleration. Stock the boost should hit 0.7 bar. Under some conditions it can go higher (elevation can cause the boost to go over 0.7 bar), and once it hits its peak it should taper down gradually as RPMs climb.

After the test ride then you switch seats and take the car out as a driver, following the same route, driving the car the same way.

The test wants to have at least one multi-gear hard acceleration run to ensure the engine pulls good from down low and then strong once the turbos kick in and pulls strong all the way up to red line, and then continues this after an upshift. Afterwards, the engine should settle into a nice smooth idle.

Back at the starting point, check everything. Get a hold of a used car check list (PPI list) and go through that.

Check everything, assume nothing works until you confirm it does.

Afterwards arrange for a PPI and get the car in the air and look for fluid leaks. Everything. RMS. Spoiler hydraulics. Axle boots. Tranny seals. Shifter rod seals. Water pump. Camshaft covers. Diff flange seals (rear and front!). Power steering rack, hoses/fittings. Anywhere there is a fitting, gasket, seal, or connection, check for any leak sign. Do this after the test ride/drive as use will give the leaks, if any exist, a chance to well, leak.

 

Same displacement as mentioned above.

 

What is the CEL?

 

You've obviously read about the displacement increase from 3.4 to 3.6 on the 2002 Carrera. This is the Turbo. Even though the body shells look similar and the interiors certainly are, a Turbo is a different 911 Model line, with different dates of manufacturer, completely different engines, and many other systems that are markedly different from the Carrera. For instance, the 996 Carrera was made for model years 1999 - 2004, where the 996 Turbo ran from MY 2001 - 2005.

Many people think of it as a Turbo Carrera, where a turbo system was added to an otherwise unchanged Carrera, like in many entry-level sportscars or sedans. But this isn't the case.

Just trying to make sure you don't do your research in places where they're talking about 996 Carreras, because too many things are different mechanically to get much use out of that.

Good luck with your search!

As mentioned, between 2002 and 2001, if all other things were truly equal, then 2002. A year newer, glove box, and maybe most importantly, a significantly more rigid structure. Or not. Many in-print and internet sources (including Excellence Magazine in the current 2013 Porsche Buyers Guide) claim that the 2002 enjoys around a 25% increase in torsional rigidity. Some other people make a case that this is not true, and was a misprint or misinterpretation in some Porsche literature. Don't know how we'd find out. Since I have a 2002, I'm going with the It's Stiffer story!

EDIT: Just read further in the thread and saw where the 01 is a Stick and the other a Tip. If the condition of both is similar, then look no further than this. You either want a stick, or you want a manual. That decision is about a billion times more important than gloveboxes and torsional rigidity that nobody can even feel anyway. If you want a stick, you will be disappointed in the 02. And vice versa. Neither model has enough advantage over the other to even remotely offset having the transmission you didn't prefer.

 

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