So I just did a SACHS 2.5+ clutch on my car, and during the test drive afterwards the slave cylinder developed a big leak. I had known about the issues with the OEM slave but had hopped to not have to do it as mine had worked fine up till this point. Anyways, the OEM slave and accumulator are around $750 for the parts from Porsche so at that point I might as well go GT2 from EVOMS for reliability and simplicity first and better peddle feel second.

I don't really feel like doing this myself after just going through the clutch installation experience on jack stands. (sucked) I have yet to find anyone local that has done this conversion so they are unaware of what is involved and therefore how to quote the install. Can someone please share their installation experience so I can pass on the info? Do you remove the transmission front cross member and then do the install with the transmission in the car? How much of a PITA is it? How long did it take a first timer?

Thanks!

 

Too bad you did not do it at the same time as the clutch job.

Looking at about $1,500 USD in labor (+/-) if you go with a 3rd party shop.
plus whatever parts cost.
As I understand it, the transmission has to be dropped and the preferred method is to tap into the bell housing, using normal GT2/GT3 mounting point / parts.

The research I have done = if you are not tracking the car, you may want to stick with stock setup. Even if it fails occasionally, relatively cheap and straightforward replacement. Retain the light clutch pedal feel and likely easier to resell the car later.
Also understand that the GT2 conversion is not necessarily 'bulletproof'. You can still have problems requiring similar work to dig into it (fork, release bearing, needle bearing issues)...seems as though poor installs are more to blame here - but how do you know that you will get a good one?

 

With all due respect I think you estimate is a bit high.
Porsche quoted $1700 parts and labor to replace the stock tt slave and accumulator. When I was quoted for the clutch install it was $1400 in labor from my local indy so the slave can't be nearly that much as the transmission stays in the car. As I understand it the whole reason why you would pay a premium from EVOMS over doing it the stock GT2 way is for the convenience factor of not having to source all the parts and because you can do it as a bolt on without having to remove the transmission to drill and tap for the OEM GT2 slave in the GT2 location thus saving labor and offsetting the parts cost.

 

Hello - If you managed to change the clutch, then the gt2 install wont be that big a deal for you.

I managed to do it with the gearbox in the car. just drop the front mount and lowered the engine. Your still on your back, and you have to bolt it in blind, but its not that tough at all. In fact, the hardest part is the master cylinder - Honestly, spend 6 or so hours, take your time and do it yourself the right way.

 

Some additional reading material for you...
GT2 conversion posts

 

evoms slave is all oem parts plus a braided line and the bracket. so 525$ fpr the oem parts and another 500$ for a braided line and a bracket.

drop the tranny again as big a pain as it is and drill and tap the trans for oem gt2 setup. its easy and as long as you flush the system really well before adding the new parts you will be fine. the hardest thing of all to do is installing the master cylinder under the dash. i had to remove my seat to get the right angle and it was a biatch!
either way requires removing the power steering pump and res and tapping for plugs. have water close by , almost impossible not to spill petosin everywere
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...onversion.html

GT2 Slave…996 116 237 90 $130
GT2 Master…996 243 171 06 $65
GT2 Assist spring (you definitely want this, trust me)…996 423 081 18 $55
Brake fluid cap…996 355 119 01 $5
GT2 Hose…996 423 377 90 $105
GT2 Clutch fork…997 116 086 90 $180
GT2/Tip PS reservoir (optional, you can just plug the lid)…997 314 920 50 $480
GT2 PS pump (optional, just remove the coupler from the turbo pump)…996 314 050 01 $400

 

Thanks for the input everyone. I agree that if I was up for dropping the tranny again or had the hindsight to do the conversion when I was doing the clutch that the GT2 slave in the OEM configuration would be the way to go. Unfortunately I don't have the time or desire to get my hands dirty again right now so I've decided to go with the EVOMS kit; my local indy has quoted 6 hours to install it.

 

I did the conversion a few years ago. I did it with the transmission installed (i.e. using the bracket for the slave rather than tapping the transmission). I thought the master install was a pain and removing the power steering pump was a pain.

I know what you are going through as I just finished my clutch install ending in a very similar result. I didn't reinstall my GT2 slave properly, and it failed. Just ordered a new one and will have to reinstall it (I don't plan to drop the engine and/or tranny at all).

I'd be on the fence about doing the conversion at this stage. You'll get plenty of opinions. I definitely like the feedback I get from the fully hydraulic setup, but given the additional effort and the fact that I have hacked up my car, I'm not convinced that I would do it again.

I seem to recall that it was a bit difficult getting lines disconnected from the OEM slave, but swapping it shouldn't be a big job. Definitely a much smaller job than the GT2 conversion and a smaller job than the clutch swap.

Just my $0.02.

 

the MAIN key factor to a successful conversion is flushing the system COMPLETELY FROM FRONT TO REAR with dot 4 fluid BEFORE installing either the m/c or the slave. the petosin will ruin either of these quickly if there is any left in the lines. i used almost a full pint of dot 4 before i ever installed the m/c or the slave.

when removing the old system use a strap wrench and tie wrap a large freezer bag around the accumulator to catch the fluid that will come out. strap wrench to break it free.
i have a very stiff pedal by choice and dont use the gt2 assist spring. i use a much lighter spring to engage the c/c safety switch.

if you decide to tackle it yourself i can pm you my cell for any questions you might have

 

Like Krazy says. the key is to get all of the petosin out of the lines.
When I installed my EVOMS kit I first used a motive bleeder full of denatured alcohol and flushed with that. Then disconnected all the lines and flushed with brake Klean and compressed air. Then flushed with DOT 4 fluid.
May seem like over kill but I have had no problems what so ever post conversion.

 

We did it at my shop on the hoist with transmission installed. 6-8 hours roughly for first time. Listen to everyones advice regarding the pentosin. It is KEY to remove all the fluid out of the system to avoid premature failures.

 

Got my car back last night after having the conversion done. Between the GT2 SACHS clutch and the GT2 hydraulics conversion I would say the pedal feel is twice as hard yet twice as predictable. Perfectly useable as a DD; more manly feeling to driving the car; better control and response.... clutch doesn't feel like your driving a Honda anymore.

 

We recommend 8-10hrs of labor depending on the skill level and familiarity of the person doing it. Definitely doable with the trans in the car, but not an amazingly easy job due to limited access. The master cylinder, as in any car, is not fun to do as well.

The most common problem we see, by far, is that Pentosin isn't fully flushed from the lines and clutch reservoir. If there is any trace of it, it will kill the new hydraulics immediately. Aside from that, we include everything needed for the conversion in the kit, ready to go, down to brake fluid and custom fittings for blocking off the stock lines.

 

OP: My car is at the indy right now getting the same clutch kit and a gt2 clutch conv, if you'd like I can PM you the name of the place where I got the best deal on my conv kit.

 

Sounds interesting is it necessary to remove any of the mounts, or can it be done without this hassle?

Regards
Jason