What is a 02 996tt x50 needing engine work worth?
I like this idea, just like car clubs of old. Bunch of like minded guys getting together to help another member get his hot rod back on the road.
Might as well give it a try, doesn't sound like you can do any more damage to that engine!
I would caution you from taking it to a dealer for a 'rebuild'. Official Porsche Corporate Policy for ALL water cooled engines is to replace them. Dealers do not rebuild water cooled motors. If they claim to, then they are using a local shop and adding their markup to it.
Just a heads up.
Just a heads up.
I would caution you from taking it to a dealer for a 'rebuild'. Official Porsche Corporate Policy for ALL water cooled engines is to replace them. Dealers do not rebuild water cooled motors. If they claim to, then they are using a local shop and adding their markup to it.
Just a heads up.
Just a heads up.
For a project car though, it'd be a blast.
as a side thought the oem rods and carillo rods are the same cost. some time spent clearancing the oil pump and you have a foundation for a strong motor. head bolts run about 750$ and the rebuild kit with all the seals and gaskets runs 1600 from ebs
What do you owe on the car? That should tell you a lot. If you just bought it and still owe $30k then ur in a pickle and should go for broke. If it's yours, it's still a financial loss but not as bad.
Typical early 996t wrecked cars with mostly front end damage at auction go for $12-15000 depending on damage, and that's with a good motor. Panels have some value but the motor and tranny are key for these guys buying at auction. The good motor is the most valuable piece and they turn and sell it for roughly what they paid for the car and get their investment back in relatively quick order. From there profit is in order over time. The tranny while they are advertised for $5000.....sit and sit at that price. The big stuff and interior will sale if in good shape.
Porsche parts, especially in the late model cars are not highly sought after but when someone needs it they want it yesterday and may spend a month looking for it. I wouldn't buy the car for $15k expecting $20k in parts and therefore $5000 in profit. That's a **** ton of labor, cleaning, advertising, cataloging, and storing for $5000+ profit. While it's true there is likely a quick (3-6 months) $10000 in parts to be made the next $10000 in parts may cost you 1-3 years before you realize the gains. Beyond that, you will end up with a garage full of crap that may never sell. I just sold a single cam housing from a motor that I have had sitting in my attic for 3 years and the guy didn't even want the cams.
Doesn't sound like ur loaded with cash. I'm in the same boat!! A blown engine would be a bad day for me too. While no expert, I'd say an OEM build is in order IF the heads, crank, cams, IMS, and case are good. But what's OEM these days?!?! Oil pump is gone, forget it! Crank and IMS may even be bad depending on how much metal circulated. But you won't know until case is split!! Crank can likely be turned but for the labor $400/journal you can buy a NEW GT3 crank $2000. I have a crank that needs one journal done and that was my quote at mile high in Denver for turn and re-nitride! But like eluded earlier, even OEM is not OEM anymore. NO way in hell should you put stock rods back in this baby, tho it has been done. But then what have you got?? Nothing you could count on and something worth getting shot over (particularly in Texas) if you didn't disclose this information. Go with carillo or pauter.
Here lies the problem! Now uv got something worth having! Add just studs and lifters and uv really got a fair platform. Tim will certainly recommend factory pistons in your circumstance and runs some I sold him in his monster motor. Yours are likely good. You still need an oil pump, iv got the GT3RS dual pick up one new for slightly less than the OEM one if you need.
Also keep in mind vivid has a 90% assembled custom 4.0 possibly 3.8 short block with better than your used stock, but ****ty ARP head studs. The case is sealed and pistons need to be installed as far as I know. They want $13k. I think it's only worth $10 based on the parts they have in it. They have factored in labor costs but are gonna have to eat that to get rid of it. They didn't disclose who built it tho I specifically asked and the ARP studs are a real **** up on that kind of motor. From here just transfer ur heads, cams, and top end stuff.
There's an overwhelming amount of things to think about and consider. You just don't know enough yet. I do agree its worth slightly more with the motor not being pulled. The buyer takes a bit more risk hoping for the best on the motor. You have introduced additional shipping cost with the motor out (if it's part of sale) and once any buyer "knows" how blasted the motor is the price comes down quickly. Plus you spent $1500 to get it out and take a relatively exterior look and at least $2000 to get the crank out.
I say suck it up and build the ****er either way. Just gonna have to lie to your wife....get used to that! And for Christ sakes, use a good builder!! Don't know what Tim charges but seems like a damn good first choice.
Typical early 996t wrecked cars with mostly front end damage at auction go for $12-15000 depending on damage, and that's with a good motor. Panels have some value but the motor and tranny are key for these guys buying at auction. The good motor is the most valuable piece and they turn and sell it for roughly what they paid for the car and get their investment back in relatively quick order. From there profit is in order over time. The tranny while they are advertised for $5000.....sit and sit at that price. The big stuff and interior will sale if in good shape.
Porsche parts, especially in the late model cars are not highly sought after but when someone needs it they want it yesterday and may spend a month looking for it. I wouldn't buy the car for $15k expecting $20k in parts and therefore $5000 in profit. That's a **** ton of labor, cleaning, advertising, cataloging, and storing for $5000+ profit. While it's true there is likely a quick (3-6 months) $10000 in parts to be made the next $10000 in parts may cost you 1-3 years before you realize the gains. Beyond that, you will end up with a garage full of crap that may never sell. I just sold a single cam housing from a motor that I have had sitting in my attic for 3 years and the guy didn't even want the cams.
Doesn't sound like ur loaded with cash. I'm in the same boat!! A blown engine would be a bad day for me too. While no expert, I'd say an OEM build is in order IF the heads, crank, cams, IMS, and case are good. But what's OEM these days?!?! Oil pump is gone, forget it! Crank and IMS may even be bad depending on how much metal circulated. But you won't know until case is split!! Crank can likely be turned but for the labor $400/journal you can buy a NEW GT3 crank $2000. I have a crank that needs one journal done and that was my quote at mile high in Denver for turn and re-nitride! But like eluded earlier, even OEM is not OEM anymore. NO way in hell should you put stock rods back in this baby, tho it has been done. But then what have you got?? Nothing you could count on and something worth getting shot over (particularly in Texas) if you didn't disclose this information. Go with carillo or pauter.
Here lies the problem! Now uv got something worth having! Add just studs and lifters and uv really got a fair platform. Tim will certainly recommend factory pistons in your circumstance and runs some I sold him in his monster motor. Yours are likely good. You still need an oil pump, iv got the GT3RS dual pick up one new for slightly less than the OEM one if you need.
Also keep in mind vivid has a 90% assembled custom 4.0 possibly 3.8 short block with better than your used stock, but ****ty ARP head studs. The case is sealed and pistons need to be installed as far as I know. They want $13k. I think it's only worth $10 based on the parts they have in it. They have factored in labor costs but are gonna have to eat that to get rid of it. They didn't disclose who built it tho I specifically asked and the ARP studs are a real **** up on that kind of motor. From here just transfer ur heads, cams, and top end stuff.
There's an overwhelming amount of things to think about and consider. You just don't know enough yet. I do agree its worth slightly more with the motor not being pulled. The buyer takes a bit more risk hoping for the best on the motor. You have introduced additional shipping cost with the motor out (if it's part of sale) and once any buyer "knows" how blasted the motor is the price comes down quickly. Plus you spent $1500 to get it out and take a relatively exterior look and at least $2000 to get the crank out.
I say suck it up and build the ****er either way. Just gonna have to lie to your wife....get used to that! And for Christ sakes, use a good builder!! Don't know what Tim charges but seems like a damn good first choice.
Again not a builder but no way would I preventatively just change the chains unless part of a build or if you had to be in it that far for some other reason. Case has to be split to do chains.
ok OP keep us updated when your choice of shop finds out what the damage is i just went for a full motor upgrade and might have most of the parts you'll need if you decided to put her back together stock, i had 44k miles on my motor (without a single issue i just went crazy!!! and did the upgrade) so keep us updated.
I called the shop this morning, they dropped the engine enough to see what was going on in there.
As expected, the chain had snapped. One of the valves was bent, but apparently the piston looked fine.
They also said that the residue oil in the engine didn't have any metal in it. There were only a few little nicks where the engine hit the case after it snapped, no major gouges in the case. They haven't been able to find the missing link, so they're still looking for it while assessing the amount of work required to rebuild it.
Either way, so far it apparently looks promising.
As expected, the chain had snapped. One of the valves was bent, but apparently the piston looked fine.
They also said that the residue oil in the engine didn't have any metal in it. There were only a few little nicks where the engine hit the case after it snapped, no major gouges in the case. They haven't been able to find the missing link, so they're still looking for it while assessing the amount of work required to rebuild it.
Either way, so far it apparently looks promising.



