996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

996t idle question

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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 07:15 PM
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996t idle question

So I now have 100 miles worth of seat time in my new to me '04 996t Cab with 18k miles. My question is...how smooth should this car idle? I have a hopped 6.0 PSD that when I don't have blown out injectors you can't feel it idle. My daily driver is a Pontiac G8 and same thing...you have to look at the tach to know its running. My 996, although runs good, definetly has an idle shake to it. Idles smooth at about 800 rpm. I've put about a half tank through it and
Topping off with Mobil 93 oct at the pump. Today it went for its NYS inspection at the local Porsche stealer and their "mechanic"didn't say anything. So....how smooth should I expect this thing to idle?
 
Old Apr 14, 2014 | 08:32 PM
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change your plugs... you just bought the car... simple... an 04 probably has original 10 year old plugs... I would... car will run smoother.. next get a tune and call it a day..
markski
 
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 08:32 PM
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you just wrote it idles smooth at 800. that's all it's supposed to do. the idle "shake" is probably the 400+ hp hidden directly behind your *** that you're getting used to lol. if your idle "hunts"? that's a problem. but if it idles smoothly at 750-800 and doesn't move? it's fine.

try fixating on checking the oil level while at stoplights like i did. see if you can get a reading on the gauge before the traffic light changes. it'll take your mind off other stuff real, and imagined
 
Old Apr 14, 2014 | 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by '02996ttx50
you just wrote it idles smooth at 800. that's all it's supposed to do. the idle "shake" is probably the 400+ hp hidden directly behind your *** that you're getting used to lol. if your idle "hunts"? that's a problem. but if it idles smoothly at 750-800 and doesn't move? it's fine.

try fixating on checking the oil level while at stoplights like i did. see if you can get a reading on the gauge before the traffic light changes. it'll take your mind off other stuff real, and imagined
I'm glad to know I'm not the only one who does that!
 
Old Apr 14, 2014 | 08:40 PM
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...only some of us are man enough to admit it lol
 
Old Apr 14, 2014 | 09:14 PM
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Boxer engines have a distinct vibration at idle that you don't get in other engine configurations.

But definitely also change your plugs, and make sure your coil packs are in good shape too. If not, replace them with the 997TT versions.
 
Old Apr 14, 2014 | 09:47 PM
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worn motor mounts will also greatly contribute to any perceived idle/vibration issues. 911s have two big engine mounts holding the powertrain in and not a whole lot more.

I replaced mine shortly after getting the car and you could see the difference by watching the passenger seat at a stop light.
 
Old Apr 14, 2014 | 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by MARKSKI@911tuning
change your plugs... you just bought the car... simple... an 04 probably has original 10 year old plugs... I would... car will run smoother.. next get a tune and call it a day..
markski

+1

To the OP please do this you will feel a huge difference with the upgraded 997 coils and FR6 plugs.
 
Old Apr 15, 2014 | 04:37 AM
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I just purchased FR6 plugs, what should I gap them at? Also purchased 997TT coils to accompany them!
 
Old Apr 15, 2014 | 05:13 AM
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Originally Posted by '02996ttx50
you just wrote it idles smooth at 800. that's all it's supposed to do. the idle "shake" is probably the 400+ hp hidden directly behind your *** that you're getting used to lol. if your idle "hunts"? that's a problem. but if it idles smoothly at 750-800 and doesn't move? it's fine.

try fixating on checking the oil level while at stoplights like i did. see if you can get a reading on the gauge before the traffic light changes. it'll take your mind off other stuff real, and imagined
I should have said consistent 800 rpm meaning no hunting or anything. My bad.
 
Old Apr 15, 2014 | 05:15 AM
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Originally Posted by zmt
worn motor mounts will also greatly contribute to any perceived idle/vibration issues. 911s have two big engine mounts holding the powertrain in and not a whole lot more.

I replaced mine shortly after getting the car and you could see the difference by watching the passenger seat at a stop light.
That possibility is exactly what was in the back of my head. I'll research the project and put it on the list along with a stg 1 tune and plugs.
 
Old Apr 15, 2014 | 05:18 AM
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Originally Posted by '02996ttx50
you just wrote it idles smooth at 800. that's all it's supposed to do. the idle "shake" is probably the 400+ hp hidden directly behind your *** that you're getting used to lol. if your idle "hunts"? that's a problem. but if it idles smoothly at 750-800 and doesn't move? it's fine.

try fixating on checking the oil level while at stoplights like i did. see if you can get a reading on the gauge before the traffic light changes. it'll take your mind off other stuff real, and imagined
Nothing would make me happier than to know that it's nothing more that than the odd shaped motor in the back seat taunting me to unleash it the second the light goes green!
 
Old Apr 15, 2014 | 05:33 AM
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Originally Posted by WaterNWheels
Nothing would make me happier than to know that it's nothing more that than the odd shaped motor in the back seat taunting me to unleash it the second the light goes green!
the others advice is good and perhaps those things could use a look, but there is so much about this car's "normal" that takes some getting used to. the noises etc. you learn over time what's right vs what isn't. usually any odd noise you sense/hear? has a hundred threads in here associated with it

but again, unless it's doing something really wierd? i wouldn't worry about it. i would hasten to add that given the relative age of the cars, things can be ready for replacement simply owing to time ( if not actual miles. ) so just enjoy it. there will be plenty of little niggling things that crop up. chances are, many of us have already dealt with em.. so..until then

just drive the hell outa her, and watch out for smokey lol
 
Old Apr 15, 2014 | 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by redturbo01
I just purchased FR6 plugs, what should I gap them at? Also purchased 997TT coils to accompany them!
that's the ticket. they are a plug and play combination. no need to gap em. though folks will swear by fiddling with em at .26 and then putting em in. but really it's just a waste of time of an extra 5 mins lol ..
 
Old Apr 15, 2014 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by '02996ttx50
the others advice is good and perhaps those things could use a look, but there is so much about this car's "normal" that takes some getting used to. the noises etc. you learn over time what's right vs what isn't. usually any odd noise you sense/hear? has a hundred threads in here associated with it

but again, unless it's doing something really wierd? i wouldn't worry about it. i would hasten to add that given the relative age of the cars, things can be ready for replacement simply owing to time ( if not actual miles. ) so just enjoy it. there will be plenty of little niggling things that crop up. chances are, many of us have already dealt with em.. so..until then

just drive the hell outa her, and watch out for smokey lol
You touched on the one thing i really lack...knowing what's normal. The 600 hp monsters in my boat shake the whole 12k lb package and i'd be worried if they didn't (rigid offshore motor mounts). On the flipside as I mentioned the diesel truck i pull with gives no indication that it's running.

PS driving it like I stole it every chance I get but winter will just not let go of its grip!!
 


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