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Had a bit of a rough idle after hot start when shifiting into reverse (Tiptronic) - RPM would drop (almost die) and I'd need to lightly tap the gas pedal to bring it back up to normal RPM. Cleaned the MAF today with CRC MAF Cleaner. Solved the rough idle problem and by my butt dyno the throttle response and power seem smoother too across all RPMs. Not bad for a few minutes of work.
Next up on the 60,000 mile service schedule: new plugs, coils and accessory belt. A couple weekends from now I will dig into this project. Gonna test the "You don't have to remove the rear bumper, intercoolers, etc" claim. If I can do it I will post a DIY with pics since there doesn't seem to be a DIY thread for a plug change with the bumper still on the vehicle.
I just changed my plugs and coil packs, all i can say is that the only difficult plug to get to without removing the intercooler is the passenger side front plug, omg it couldn't be in a worse spot, but is definitely doable with patience and beer. Fwiw new plugs and coils will definitely improve the driving excperience in your car. Have fun!!!
Cleaning the MAF usually only helps for a short period of time, your better off buying a new not rebuilt MAF. Just my experience from many MAF episodes lol.
Your MAF sensor will be on the tube leaving your air box and heading into the intake - not my photo but this is the general idea - MAF sensor is at red arrow:
You will need a Torx Anti Tamper T20 driver to remove the two screws holding it to the intake tube, remove the wiring clip before removing the sensor - pinch the side tab and pull off. Then unscrew and remove the MAF sensor. DO NOT TOUCH the wires on the sensor, on the side or where the yellow circle is:
Use this spray cleaner to clean the sensor, and then clean it some more. Clean the whole sensor but specifically the wire on the side and the wires inside the yellow circle.
Let it dry completely - I let it dry for 30 minutes. Then re-install.
Had a bit of a rough idle after hot start when shifiting into reverse (Tiptronic) - RPM would drop (almost die) and I'd need to lightly tap the gas pedal to bring it back up to normal RPM. Cleaned the MAF today with CRC MAF Cleaner. Solved the rough idle problem and by my butt dyno the throttle response and power seem smoother too across all RPMs. Not bad for a few minutes of work.
Next up on the 60,000 mile service schedule: new plugs, coils and accessory belt. A couple weekends from now I will dig into this project. Gonna test the "You don't have to remove the rear bumper, intercoolers, etc" claim. If I can do it I will post a DIY with pics since there doesn't seem to be a DIY thread for a plug change with the bumper still on the vehicle.
Cheers.
Bumper and intercoolers only take 20 min to remove. Super easy and makes the plug job easier and quicker in the end.. Plus it gives you a chance to clean out all the crap that has accumulated on top of the ICs.
Hmm, not sure why you wouldn't spray the MAF cleaner directly onto the sensor. The directions on the can say to spray direct, the Renntech DIY on this says to spray direct - every MAF sensor I have cleaned on my VWs, Audi, and even my Challenger I have sprayed direct without any harm.
Maybe I've been doing it wrong but I've never had an issue spraying direct.
Hmm, not sure why you wouldn't spray the MAF cleaner directly onto the sensor. The directions on the can say to spray direct, the Renntech DIY on this says to spray direct - every MAF sensor I have cleaned on my VWs, Audi, and even my Challenger I have sprayed direct without any harm.
Maybe I've been doing it wrong but I've never had an issue spraying direct.
If you're not supposed to touch the wires, I don't think it makes sense to spray a stream of liquid at it either. Some of those cans spray with quite a bit of pressure.
I'll probably get flamed for this, but here goes.:
1. There is absolutely NO data to support "cleaning" the MAF (what are you actually cleaning) has any affect on the performance of the MAF
2. If the MAF is "fried", no cleaning will revive it.
Hopefully you all realize the way the hot film sensor works by sensing the air temperature differential (changes from one side of the film to the other) in conjunction with O2 sensors supposedly provides an accurate measure of airflow (taking into account factors that affect combustion....altitude, air density, etc.). The wires are simply the connection between the sensor and the ECU. They have nothing to do with the measurement itself.
However if it makes you "feel" better then go for it...
I'll probably get flamed for this, but here goes.:
1. There is absolutely NO data to support "cleaning" the MAF (what are you actually cleaning) has any affect on the performance of the MAF
2. If the MAF is "fried", no cleaning will revive it.
Hopefully you all realize the way the hot film sensor works by sensing the air temperature differential (changes from one side of the film to the other) in conjunction with O2 sensors supposedly provides an accurate measure of airflow (taking into account factors that affect combustion....altitude, air density, etc.). The wires are simply the connection between the sensor and the ECU. They have nothing to do with the measurement itself.
However if it makes you "feel" better then go for it...
Here's something that might help you understand what the wires are doing, but don't get distracted by Lauren's blonde hair and ***** :