What weld? (They are machined connectors made from solid aircraft grade aluminum.)

i believe he's talking about my original picture.

yea, check out the original picture. I zoomed in and I think you have a crack adjacent to the weld you can clearly see what appears to be a crack....perhaps this is the source of you leak???

I bought the forge hose boost kit from: http://www.turbodynamics.co.uk/shop/...es-p-4689.html (you can pick your color just put it in the comments during checkout)

It's a UK based site, and it was $330 USD after shipping, and they arrived in less than a week. It was the best pricing I could find on a full set and the forge hoses are strong as hell (trying to drill into it for the aquamist kit proved that without a question!).

the shop fixed it, adjusted the intercoolers, used 997 clips, modified them to have a harder bite, still holding strong at 1.2 Bar

so...months later i'm back to where I started. I purchased new forge boost hoses to connect into my agency intercoolers, and am having a hard time with the c clip biting onto the new aluminum connector. At first I thought this was because my OEM hoses were worn down, but now i'm certain it's not.

The c clip is fully seated, but will not hold the notch down into the intercooler which is going to cause a boost leak. I've only pulled one intercooler so far, but i'm guessing it's the same issue on the other side.

Any ideas how I can fix this without welding the new connected TO the intercooler? I'm running a thicker o-ring inside which makes it snugger but still pulls out (and probably still will pull out under high boost).

Thanks for any help!


video: http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/...pswnwzpt0v.mp4

I could of told you 3 years ago those flanges do not fit in the ap Ics.
You need to shave doen the flange

one side hooks in fine, the other does not. the lip mounts flush to the i/c but the ridge that the c clip cathces on doesn't catch on one side.

what part are you referring to shaving down?

I've seen it before. Everyone just assumes that xxxx part will fit yyyy part. I've seen eve other AM coolers where I had to cut the flange off and weld my own. If both oem and Forge do not fit then you may have to get dirty and simply make it work whatever it takes. That's what I do when needed.
I've seen flanged not drop all all the way for example. Or the ridges on some flanges not cut right. ( other brand. )

thanks mark. Looks like i'll just be welding them in. Already had to cut the unibody a bit bigger to allow for clearance on the silicone boost hoses. it's never easy is it...

Dan,

I would weld them and be done...

You didn't have to do that. A couple years ago I did some work for which I never got any credit lol. I took a forge flangea an extended it an inch so you can clamp the hose on the flange on the inside of the body and not on the outside as the hose clamp hits the body. So I pased it on to forge and they started to supply 2 longer flanhes which should go on the upper tanks. Clamp it on the inside of the body In the engine bay and bam problem solved.
If you can weld do it and even extend the flange if you got all 4 short ones.
Maybe just cutting a wider slit for the c clamps will help with the sealing.
its vey doable u just have to figure it out.

How do you guys make the worm clamp that comes on most aftermarket hoses go through the sheet metal where the flange connects to the IC (hose that connects IC's to Y-pipe)?

what happens to the o-ring once you weld them? can it go back post welding or is it not necessary if you weld them in place? Is the o-ring making a connection or just there to help the seal?

Mark,
What adapter do you use to do a pressure check from the lower boost hose? I believe you said that's the preferred way of doing it but the adapter you sell on your website is designed to pressurize the turbo cold side if I'm not mistaken. That's how I have always done it.