ABS/PSM Fault Code 4266 ?!?
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ABS/PSM Fault Code 4266 ?!?
seems like there are a myriad of reasons for the ABS/PSM fault to appear from the MAF to a simple brake pedal switch
however, there isn't much out there on fault code 4266 - unless i'm missing it
anyone have this issue? Just had my buddy scan the car with a durametric. Here's the possible causes:
4266
– Return Pump Fault
Probable Cause[s]
1. Open or short circuit condition
2. Poor electrical connection
3. Brake fluid condition
4. Faulty hydraulic pump
Lights came on for the first time last week - the car had been sitting for almost a month with not much use. I noticed that the car didn't crank over as strong as it normally does and attributed to the battery not being charged as it sat in the miami heat for a month.
When the ABS/PSM error came on, I took it to autozone to have my battery tested. They said the battery is good but needed a charge. Removed the battery and they put it on a quick charger. Replaced the battery but the lights stayed on for the remainder of the day (i probably turned the car on/off three more times after putting back the battery). The next day the lights were off but came on once as my wife said she was going down into a garage and went over a speed bump. The lights were off when she got back in the car and remained off all week. Drove the car everyday since then with no faults. Today, while i was driving it, i went over a speed bump in garage and the faults reappeared. Lights cleared themselves on the next start-up (on my way to my friend to have the codes read).
Anyway, totally lost. I doubt it's a faulty pump. I'm thinking maybe bad battery notwithstanding the autozone test (still doesn't seem to crank over with the vigor it once had). I also have no idea how old the battery is but i've had the car 14 months. I also don't know what condition the brake fluid is in, i will change it for motul 600 soon since i may take the car to the track early next month. Seems strange that the condition of the fluid could cause a fault.
I was thinking maybe dirty wheel speed sensors since i noticed my front CV boots are slightly ripped and grease has escaped - but the wheel speed sensors don't seem to be a cause of the 4266 code -- definitely a cause for others that have the ABS/PSM lights, but it's difficult to tell if the people that made threads had the codes read (those that did, none had 4266).
How to approach? Also, what should our voltage gauge be at ? -- i believe mine is at 13 when's she running.
however, there isn't much out there on fault code 4266 - unless i'm missing it
anyone have this issue? Just had my buddy scan the car with a durametric. Here's the possible causes:
4266
– Return Pump Fault
Probable Cause[s]
1. Open or short circuit condition
2. Poor electrical connection
3. Brake fluid condition
4. Faulty hydraulic pump
Lights came on for the first time last week - the car had been sitting for almost a month with not much use. I noticed that the car didn't crank over as strong as it normally does and attributed to the battery not being charged as it sat in the miami heat for a month.
When the ABS/PSM error came on, I took it to autozone to have my battery tested. They said the battery is good but needed a charge. Removed the battery and they put it on a quick charger. Replaced the battery but the lights stayed on for the remainder of the day (i probably turned the car on/off three more times after putting back the battery). The next day the lights were off but came on once as my wife said she was going down into a garage and went over a speed bump. The lights were off when she got back in the car and remained off all week. Drove the car everyday since then with no faults. Today, while i was driving it, i went over a speed bump in garage and the faults reappeared. Lights cleared themselves on the next start-up (on my way to my friend to have the codes read).
Anyway, totally lost. I doubt it's a faulty pump. I'm thinking maybe bad battery notwithstanding the autozone test (still doesn't seem to crank over with the vigor it once had). I also have no idea how old the battery is but i've had the car 14 months. I also don't know what condition the brake fluid is in, i will change it for motul 600 soon since i may take the car to the track early next month. Seems strange that the condition of the fluid could cause a fault.
I was thinking maybe dirty wheel speed sensors since i noticed my front CV boots are slightly ripped and grease has escaped - but the wheel speed sensors don't seem to be a cause of the 4266 code -- definitely a cause for others that have the ABS/PSM lights, but it's difficult to tell if the people that made threads had the codes read (those that did, none had 4266).
How to approach? Also, what should our voltage gauge be at ? -- i believe mine is at 13 when's she running.
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seems like there are a myriad of reasons for the ABS/PSM fault to appear from the MAF to a simple brake pedal switch however, there isn't much out there on fault code 4266 - unless i'm missing it anyone have this issue? Just had my buddy scan the car with a durametric. Here's the possible causes: 4266 – Return Pump Fault Probable Cause[s] 1. Open or short circuit condition 2. Poor electrical connection 3. Brake fluid condition 4. Faulty hydraulic pump Lights came on for the first time last week - the car had been sitting for almost a month with not much use. I noticed that the car didn't crank over as strong as it normally does and attributed to the battery not being charged as it sat in the miami heat for a month. When the ABS/PSM error came on, I took it to autozone to have my battery tested. They said the battery is good but needed a charge. Removed the battery and they put it on a quick charger. Replaced the battery but the lights stayed on for the remainder of the day (i probably turned the car on/off three more times after putting back the battery). The next day the lights were off but came on once as my wife said she was going down into a garage and went over a speed bump. The lights were off when she got back in the car and remained off all week. Drove the car everyday since then with no faults. Today, while i was driving it, i went over a speed bump in garage and the faults reappeared. Lights cleared themselves on the next start-up (on my way to my friend to have the codes read). Anyway, totally lost. I doubt it's a faulty pump. I'm thinking maybe bad battery notwithstanding the autozone test (still doesn't seem to crank over with the vigor it once had). I also have no idea how old the battery is but i've had the car 14 months. I also don't know what condition the brake fluid is in, i will change it for motul 600 soon since i may take the car to the track early next month. Seems strange that the condition of the fluid could cause a fault. I was thinking maybe dirty wheel speed sensors since i noticed my front CV boots are slightly ripped and grease has escaped - but the wheel speed sensors don't seem to be a cause of the 4266 code -- definitely a cause for others that have the ABS/PSM lights, but it's difficult to tell if the people that made threads had the codes read (those that did, none had 4266). How to approach? Also, what should our voltage gauge be at ? -- i believe mine is at 13 when's she running.
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havent flushed brake fluid but it's next on my list
wouldnt you expect it to throw the codes immediately upon starting up - not after driving it for a while and over a speed bump ?
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Not if you took it to autozone and they said it still needed a charge. Your voltage could have dropped triggering the CEL while driving.
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Low battery voltage causes a myriad of problems with these Euro cars. There are a lot of things drawing power all the time, ECU, sensors, pumps, injectors, etc...You could have OK voltage, but cell deterioration. Did they LOAD test it? Or just put a meter on it and check voltage? Alternator is working overtime to keep that battery charged. Spend the money on a new battery and see if your problems go away.
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the whole speedbump twice thing has me thinking perhaps my battery cables/connection may be at issue
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From: kirkwood pa
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Start with the battery in the frunk make sure connecting are clean and tight. There is another ground listed in post on other forum left side of motor I believe= someone will chime in.
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Low battery voltage causes a myriad of problems with these Euro cars. There are a lot of things drawing power all the time, ECU, sensors, pumps, injectors, etc...You could have OK voltage, but cell deterioration. Did they LOAD test it? Or just put a meter on it and check voltage? Alternator is working overtime to keep that battery charged. Spend the money on a new battery and see if your problems go away.
new battery is only $190 at autozone - i assume it's okay to run a non OEM porsche battery, right?
when I used to own m3, believe it or not. battery went full dead overnight, why? because it was old, Plus I don't believe in charging the battery- if its few years old.just get a new battery.
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only thing you need to match on a new battery is the cca#. make sure it's porsche spec.
then get a trickle charger. these cars demand it, even if used as a dd.
add: re trickle charging..sorry about the apt. lol.
then get a trickle charger. these cars demand it, even if used as a dd.
add: re trickle charging..sorry about the apt. lol.
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I got a BOSCH AGM battery at pep boys for about $150...
There is a ground strap from the motor to the chassis. Check there, or use a multimeter and check ground at various points.
This might help:
http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...trap-location/
There is a ground strap from the motor to the chassis. Check there, or use a multimeter and check ground at various points.
This might help:
http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...trap-location/
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