K16 adjusting WG actuator rods tighter?
K16 adjusting WG actuator rods tighter?
All the WG adjustment talk revolves around setting K24s for 1.0 bar. Can a flashed K16 996 Turbo with 60k miles benefit from a small amount of WG rod adjustment to help with spool and compensate for actuator deterioration over time?
I was considering going two turns tighter on the nut which IIRC would equate to approx 2mm of rod length to improve spool time but don't want to have a big mid range boost spike that the stock dash boost gauge doesn't register.
I was considering going two turns tighter on the nut which IIRC would equate to approx 2mm of rod length to improve spool time but don't want to have a big mid range boost spike that the stock dash boost gauge doesn't register.
All the WG adjustment talk revolves around setting K24s for 1.0 bar. Can a flashed K16 996 Turbo with 60k miles benefit from a small amount of WG rod adjustment to help with spool and compensate for actuator deterioration over time?
I was considering going two turns tighter on the nut which IIRC would equate to approx 2mm of rod length to improve spool time but don't want to have a big mid range boost spike that the stock dash boost gauge doesn't register.
I was considering going two turns tighter on the nut which IIRC would equate to approx 2mm of rod length to improve spool time but don't want to have a big mid range boost spike that the stock dash boost gauge doesn't register.
not the cheapest way but the proper way
my understanding is that manual adjustment will prevent the dme from opening the w/g when the computer wants it to open. so overboost when you least want it may happen. the proper way would be to install 1 bar w/g and adjust them for 1 bar. this way the computer can do what it needs to.
only thing i can add is that any adjustment made that isn't equal or is imprecise adjustment will have you fiddling with them as i ( well ..with help ) did for weeks. a 1/4 turn here, a 1/4 turn there. reminded me of messing with old amal carburetors on my old triumphs for some reason. probably because i would do the same thing with those decades ago. mess with the left.. mess with right... wait, almost!...and mess them all up
when i installed 1 bar w/g on my k24 they had to be pressurized on each side to see were they crack open and then from the n75 to see they both crack open at the same time
I would hazard a guess because the spool is so fast manually tightening allows more chance of over post before the computer can interact
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All the WG adjustment talk revolves around setting K24s for 1.0 bar. Can a flashed K16 996 Turbo with 60k miles benefit from a small amount of WG rod adjustment to help with spool and compensate for actuator deterioration over time?
I was considering going two turns tighter on the nut which IIRC would equate to approx 2mm of rod length to improve spool time but don't want to have a big mid range boost spike that the stock dash boost gauge doesn't register.
I was considering going two turns tighter on the nut which IIRC would equate to approx 2mm of rod length to improve spool time but don't want to have a big mid range boost spike that the stock dash boost gauge doesn't register.
__________________

2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
9.66 seconds @ 147.76 mph 1/4 mile click to view
160 mph @ 9.77 seconds in 1/4 mile click to view
50% OFF ON PORSCHE ECU TUNING BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL

2001 996TT 3.6L and stock ECU
9.66 seconds @ 147.76 mph 1/4 mile click to view
160 mph @ 9.77 seconds in 1/4 mile click to view
50% OFF ON PORSCHE ECU TUNING BLACK FRIDAY SPECIAL
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