After some reading. Let me ask this differently. Why even test at the turbo instead of the maf and just do the entire system?



Markski is currently out of them, but I'd like to test mine tonight. Throwing lights and now boost is down a bit. I have never done this on my car. I've read markskis full post, now I just need the parts. Anyone have a list of everything needed and what size? I have the compressor.

Thank you.

 

the other thread had everything spelled out in the first post
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ml#post2429269

You will need to drill the top of one of the stoppers to place the nipple fitting.
Another good idea if you have the time is to put a pressure gauge on the other stopper but you should be able to hear any leaks. I used to use a spray bottle with dishwashing liquid and spray where I heard leaks and look for bubbles.

But you want to test after the compressors where you have positive pressures normally

 

You only want to test those areas that see boost normally, from the turbo's inlet is easiest. You just need a couple of couplers that fit the inlet, a pair of pvc plugs to fit the other side of the coupler, a schraeder valve, and a gauge. Plumb one cap with the nipple and gauge. Plug both sides, clamp them TIGHT, and pressurize with the nipple to about 20psi then watch to see how quickly the gauge falls.

Be careful, if one of those caps lets loose it's a little missle!

 

So...if I plug both turbos and test, won't the air leak right out of the air filter? That's where I'm confused. Don't I need to plug the maf?

 

Nope! The airflow goes like this - in through the air box, through the MAF, splits into two tubes, and enters each turbo. The point where it enters the two turbo is what you want to disconnect and cap. The caps will be attaching directly to the turbo inlets. Alternately, you could disconnect the turbo discharge pipes and pressurize from those.

What you're pressurizing is the intercoolers, the Y-pipe, the intake, all the funky vac hoses and check valves attached. Making sense yet?

 

here you go this is the best way... take ti to 20 psi and see if it holds for 30 sec..

 

Does it make any difference if you do by capping and pressurizing the lower intercooler hoses vs capping and pressurizing at the turbo compressor inlets?

 

Input, output for pressure sensing but, If you have a 997, check your FRP valve. Pressure is related!

 

You need to test at the maf to check thediverter valves and n75 though right?

 

No.

If diverters are leaking you can feel/hear it in the inlet plenum right behind the maf (so I usually pull the maf off when I test).

If the n75 is bad, you can pull the little tube that taps into drivers side turbo inlet and feel/hear the leak from there.

Hopefully that helps.

 

No way.
Do it the way showed u and all ur issues will go away. It's that simple. End of next week I should have them. If ur not too far from Chicago stop by we can log the the car and see what's really happening. U have been going back and forth about this for a while now. Man up and get it gone

 

If by a while means 3 days. You are right. Keep your parts in stock and maybe I'd have it done ;-)

 

lol, nice reply!