Instead of multiple cables from the head unit to the DSP or amp you run a single fiber optic if I've understood correctly. No chance of RF interference and far fewer cables.

 

I ran the older alpine 8" and now have the newest 8" and had no real complaints about either one. I upgraded simply to stop using the lighting to 30 pin adapter for the iPhone. There was ever so slight cutting required of the horseshoe, but you can't really tell it's been cut unless you really look at it. The link that BLKMGK posted is to the build of my audio system. It is simply perfect in the front stage. I'm swapping the rear 12" sub for two 8" subs simply because I want to run the mile fast at some point and will need a cage. With the audio the way it is now you would be hard pressed to find something better (IMO). I have 3 mosconi amps, a mosconi DSP and the alpine goes straight to the dsp then the wires run from there. I also have an upgraded XS power battery (similar to stock but not as wide) and love every minute of it. My old 8" is for sale if you're interested.

James

 

Nice build I've followed that . I'm still on the fence about the amps and space occupation in the boot

 

Honestly they don't take up but probably close to 1/3 the space, but I don't notice much of the difference. There were other ways I could've done the amps, but I'm happy with how they turned out.

 

Truly it takes up very little space, you remove the spare. Honestly that bothered me at first but would you really be willing to use it? Pondering it I realized I would almost never use it and if I'm far away enough from home on a trip I can throw it in there on top just in case. Weight was a slightly larger concern but these are class D amps not the beasts of old that weighed a ton and sucked tons of juice...

 

apologies to the o/p but this thread is what I'm looking at doing.

To rxbike and irish100p what are your thoughts on these pieces for a budget (decent ) build? I'm doing all the labor myself so I'm not looking for sea quality like you guys have!
dash and doors
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121174686850?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
behind the seats
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400705885948?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITinside the factory sub box
http://www.ebay.com/itm/231480402914?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITamp
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261741506700?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
this is just what i found surfing around. haven't picked a head unit yet but it will be 7 or 8" bluetooth and gps unit. thinking alpine or maybe parrot radio

and lastly to show everyone how little i know about this stuff is this the proper routing? h/u to amplifier to crossovers to speakers?

 

For the price what you have listed is pretty good. If you're doing it yourself you will definitely save some cash. You may have to modify the door pods to fit the focals in there. but what you have isn't a bad setup at all. IMO unless you really want rear speakers you don't really need em, which might give you some extra to step up to the polyglass focals or save it for something else. I'm also not sure how big a difference the focal subs would make in the factory subwoofer box, but any quality speaker will sound better than whats in there now.

 

would the subs in the doors be sufficient enough and ditch the bass box? if i had to get rid of something thats the piece i would like see disappear

 

I agree, front staging will be all you really need especially in our cars. Ditch the Bose sub box and run a set of 8" or a single 10" . Consider the 700/5 JL amp for your one stop shop amp. I have that in my son's jetta and it has been a very gutsy amp running mids/highs and a single JL 10w6 sub in a ported box. Add the sub control **** to decrease or increase bass as you wish at all volume and I think you'll be happy.
Up the ante to better focals and don't look back.

 

IMO, when I listened to Irish's car without the sub it sounded just fine to me. I was actually going to have my car done with NO sub but the installer said he would run the wires and setup the rack to accommodate anyway while it was all apart. Then offered me a reasonable price to just do it so I jumped! I would suggest doing the best you can up front but perhaps running wire to the back just in case. If you decide you don't like it you've got the wiring and can save up to drop something in at a later date. If you don't listen to bass heavy music you may never miss having a sub. Do sound deaden while you're at it IMO as that pays lots of dividends and doesn't need to weigh a ton.

I'm NO expert with audio hardware but I know I liked what I heard and bit the bullet on this install. I may yet tweak my DD afterwards! I regret the amount of funds sunk but expect I'll change my tune as soon as I listen to it. I'm already trying to figure out what sorts of music will show it off best while bouncing off the walls waiting for it to be done.

P.S. I'm actually pretty curious as to how the Bose box wold sound with halfway decent speakers in it. My installer didn't seem to like the idea of tweaking it and he's certainly more the expert than I but I remain curious

 

I went with an Alpine PDX-5, replaced all the speakers with Infinity Kappa and added two 6.5 JL Audio subs and two 6.25 Infinity's in the custom enclosure in the rear. The amp fits great where the stock CD player was so no new space was consumed except for the sub enclosure - that space was not used anyway. It may not be audiophile quality but it's 100 time better than stock...

 

Saw this over on rennlist:

http://rennlist.com/forums/997-turbo...d-stuffed.html

Similar hack for the bose box. Might crack mine this weekend and see how the inside is. I have a set of JL C5 I can throw in there, can't be any worse than the stock

 

This thread is exactly what i was looking for. No apologies needed 32, I'm interested in everyones opinion on all options here.

That being said, I don't need an insane system with 9 crossovers, optical cables, unobtanium tweeter shells and unicorn juice powered amps.... I just need my **** to sound better. lol.

But I do everything over the top, so i guess i will be ordering unicorn juice amps soon.

If everyone thinks that there is no need for rear subs, I'm ok with getting rid of my bose box. But what is under it? Is it a finished item decklid etc? Also, without those subs, will i still get some thump and hum out of front speakers and rear speakers?

I need to examine closer the items that 32 has listed for his build and see what I want to go with. thanks for all this info guys.

 

My opinion: Door speakers even with cramming an 8" into the door will only give you bass and midbass depending on the driver size you are using. A 6.5 dedicated bass driver will only reach down to 60-80 hz depending on the manufacturer's rating and appropriate power applied to it. Keep in mind that these are automotive speakers with a one speaker fits all air space /enclosure design of the automotive industry's quirks in space. There are automotive setup out there that vents the speaker outside of the whole car in an infinite baffle setup.

OP, what type of music do you primarily listen to ? Hip Hop, Rap ? Jazz ? Classical ? Hard Rock > Electronic Dance ? Different types of music will somewhat govern your needs for subs .

I will also add the setup in your engine bay may dictate your needs for more sound in the cab. Exhaust ? Big turbos ? LWFW ?
What ever you do, do look at sound deadening materials back there to quiet the rest of the cabin. And don't skimp on amp power, nothing beats great speakers and crappy amps to drive them

 

I listen to a mix of rap, rock, hip hop, dubstep, and electronic. I like loud music and heavy bass.... so i guess i need some subs in the rear. Is the stock bose box better with a good 6.5" sub in it? What can the bose box be made to hold? or am i better with a custom enclosure back there?