Custom enclosure is the way to to. Sounds like you are in the need for a single 10" or 12" DVC with lots of dynamat and a monobloc amp to get that volume cab forward

 

But I do like the looks of the factory enclosure... doesn't looks "stereo competition" etc... If i can get decent punch with upgrading the 2 that are in there, that seems like a viable solution....

 

5" speakers in the sub box

 

If you can wait a bit mine will be coming out of the shop and I can give some impressions - I'm pretty sure my installer would not think highly of putting speakers in the stock Bose box though! If you listen to music that thumps you may not be happy with just front speakers - while its's all apart I'd run speaker wire to the back for a sub, if the front isn't enough add a sub in a custom enclosure. IMO you don't need the rear side speakers like the stock setup - who sits back there?! I won't have any in mine and judging from how Irish's sounded they will not be missed one bit.

Sound deadening is a PITA to do, you've been warned. I did Spectrum Sludge, Damplifier Pro, Closed Cell Foam, and MLV Pro. I still had drone <ahem> Getting the rear panels and carpet to fit back was rough, especially the tiny cover in the far back under the window - I had to remove a good bit of the foam on the carpet. My seats were also dorked up because the Bose unit was shoved forward. Behind that unit is carpet, there's a Turbo emblem that looks like the Bose one (if memory serves) that can be put back there but a custom enclosure will likely cover that area. Side panels, also tough to get to lay properly - argh! Mine kept popping loose and looked like ***. I didn't care when I finished I was so exhausted and just wanted to see if the drone was gone - nooope! My installer is fixing my work <sigh> and I bought an Unobtanium exhaust

I'm doing a pair of 8s in the rear at my installer's suggestion. I've seen some slim subs that go where a rear passenger's feet would be - my installer unimpressed - but it might work for others. My guy is charging me a reasonable fee for doing the 8s though so certainly ask what other's might charge. If you're in the Maryland or Virginia area I can put you in touch with him or you can get him through that DIYAudio thread. I've sent him this thread too but don't know if he's a member.

As I said before - you don't need super uber Cadillac amps, lots of decent stuff out there that don't weigh a ton. I'm using an Arc Audio 1200.6 to run all my front my component speakers. Not dirt cheap but it's a 6channel amp and compact. I cannot recall what was chosen to drive the sub but can check. Hope that helps a little....

 

I found Dynamat didn't make any perceptible difference. Don't waste your time!

 

New subs are definitely needed. Toss the Bose enclosure and have your local custom stereo shop make something like this: http://rennlist.com/forums/parts-mar...enclosure.html

 

That's a sexy box...

 

What exactly were you expecting? Did you do any measurements? Was Dynamat ALL you used? What noise were you trying to stop?

Read up on what I used - multiple products in layers. Each of them was designed to do different things and work in conjunction with one another! Dynamat alone, particularly if not placed properly, isn't going to have much of an effect nor would I expect it to. The work I did most certainly had an effect, it just wasn't able to stop the deep low frequency drone which is a pretty damned long wave. It certainly damped it but not nearly enough to make me happy. DynaMat alone is only going to damp some panel resonance IMO and there's far more than that going on. If you've pulled it all apart do it right, telling someone not to try based on what you did makes no sense....

 

You can install two amps in the boot without taking up much space at all. I am running a 6-channel JL Audio amp powering all six speakers and a JL 500 mono amp powering an 8" bazooka sub enclosure and it sounds great.

The front and rear speakers were upgraded to JBL 4" components with crossovers and the door speakers are Cerwin Vega 5.25" components with crossover. Everything in the cabin looks stock except for the subwoofer. All of this is running off of an Alpine 5920HD.

 

I like that Bazooka! Used to use those years ago and they were decently effective I thought. If I'd remembered them I might have tried one for my install. My amps are going low and replacing the spare, I want the weight low and can toss the spare in for trips. I also want it hidden but it looks great mounted n the open!

 

When I got my first car about 20 yes ago I used a small powered sub by the brand "watermark".

I loved it. Just a little sealed 8 that was in a small box. I bought it because my targa top went in the trunk so it had to be small. Most people asked if I had a pair of tens.

The company is long gone.

 

Alpine 8" and JL amp, stock speakers, VERY ACCEPTABLE

 

I have done this to other cars and the difference was night and day. In the 996TT, I removed all the carpet and covered everything with Dynamat and did the doors as well. If I need a db meter to detect the difference, I just wasted a lot of time and money on sound deadening. The 996 sound deadening is really quite good from the factory. The rear carpet is about an inch thick and apparently very effective.

 

The carpet itself isn't much help but the backing is some sort of closed cell foam and is helpful. Long waves like those from a droning exhaust are pretty damned hard to stop but regular road noise can be stopped and there's areas near the IC scoops that have got to be allowing a ton of noise in. On the back deck there's a flat panel that resonates like a drum too. Just using a product like Dynamat isn't enough, it works best for some noises and not for others, it's got to be done as a package to be most effective - it's a pita. I get drone from my exhaust in the back, nothing else. Unfortunately the drone is what I wanted most to remove and my efforts didn't have enough effect. A new exhaust should solve that.