Should i stick to 0w40? or
but for the record. it'll happen once in a awhile when it's 110+ ambient temps and i'm running 0/40 ONLY. if? you can grasp that coupled with the FACT that the use of a heavier viscosity DOWN LOW EG 5/40 0r 5/50 or a mix of the the two of them ( both with 5W on the bottom! which you must've missed upthread! ) as was suggested by my racing acquaintances that earn their living fixing cars far more equipped than ours!! mitigates and eliminates it? then that's all that matters.
i dont want or need to read your bobtheoilguy stuff though i've seen it countless times over the ten years or so.. sometimes ya just "know what ya know". ya know? but thanks for your help, and i'm struggling to be sincere

Now be nice.
You do realize that folks that race their cars are constantly rebuilding their engines...they don't really care about long term reliability. So, no I wouldn't take their advice on what to use in my DD.
What makes it "my" Bobs the Oil Guy...? I'm struggling to be less condescending..."ya know"... And ya know...without data you just have hypotheses.
Now be nice.
What makes it "my" Bobs the Oil Guy...? I'm struggling to be less condescending..."ya know"... And ya know...without data you just have hypotheses.

Now be nice.


it became "your" "bobtheoil" guy when you posted those links, which i've seen a hundred times, give or take. doesn't mean you have to own it, and you don't lol.
then let me ask you. do you support my hypothesis that a low viscosity ..oh i dunno, how about ZERO!? might be the consistency of mineral oil or as i've oft mentioned "crisco" as it burns and thins while heated by extreme ambient outdoor temps? and that that occurence? might well be responsible for an "oil starved condition", that is immediately remedied and disappears once oil has been circulated throughout the lifters, cams any other places LEAST likely to have an residual oil given the propensity of THINNER oil to leave less residue "possibly" that a higher viscosity might well leave more of!, while better "coating" the internal metal bits??
..and just because guys re-build motors all the time, and you're correct in pointing out they do.." does little to support the notion that the advice was given to me because ultimately my motor "doesn't mater all that much as it'll need a rebuild soon enough?!" that is the only takeaway that your assertion leaves me with, it is just implied logic inherent in your assertion. they gave me advice ( whether good or bad or indifferent, as my motors day were numbered anyway!? ) that would be dubious advice to be sure!
so, that surely needn't be the case, nor was it the reason they suggested a cure for a screech at startup! you DO understand the "screech" goes away within a mere moment after oil circulates? and that i would prefer never to hear it at all, as i know what metal on metal sounds like
5/40 and or 5/50 prevents it from occurring AT ALL!so in my circumstance.. if it were you? what would you do? tear apart your motor? or simply use a heavier porsche approved heavier viscosity that eliminated the symptom entirely simply by using a higher ( "5" ) viscosity oil on the low end of the multi viscosity oil!??
ps i welcome any/all attempts by you to "condescend" toward me. it will i predict, fail miserably, but if you are game? have at it
Last edited by '02996ttx50; Apr 19, 2015 at 10:29 AM.
Well after reading that even at high ambient temperatures 0W oil is too thick on cold start I started wondering why most manufacturers only recommend it at very low temps, surely BMW etc would recommend 0W for everything?? in fact you can have the best of both worlds by having a 0W60 !!!
02996ttx50: Thank you for your reasonable reply (and rational hypotheses). We will have to agree to disagree with what may be causing your "screeching" and the affect of higher viscosity oils on startup. Cheers.
am i mistaken in believing that the higher the "number" the "thicker" ( for lack of a more technically accurate term ) the oil's viscosity actually is?
if so, then it easily explains how i am able to run a thicker oil during the hottest months and not have an "oil starved condition" when i sart the car at 110 + temps.
if so, then it easily explains how i am able to run a thicker oil during the hottest months and not have an "oil starved condition" when i sart the car at 110 + temps.
works for me thanks. the info you've always provided ( or in this case to me? the lack thereof lol ) is the first time in recent memory i haven't found your contributions here incredibly helpful and knowledgeable. figures it was my question though lol

cheers, and enjoy your weekend!
Well after reading that even at high ambient temperatures 0W oil is too thick on cold start I started wondering why most manufacturers only recommend it at very low temps, surely BMW etc would recommend 0W for everything?? in fact you can have the best of both worlds by having a 0W60 !!!
1. Startup...the lower the weight the better
2. Normal operating conditions (at temperature)
3. Race conditions (temperatures exceed 215F)
and that oils are not just for lubrication, but also for cooling.
Hence the creation of multi-grade oils. What oil you use is likely dependent on how you drive, ambient conditions and age of your car.
I don't have any data on the effect of 60W on the internals of a Porsche, but, theoretically, unless your internals are at extreme temperatures (>215F), the viscosity is not what you would want for DD.
Perhaps...realize there are multiple situations the oil is dealing with, for example:
1. Startup...the lower the weight the better
2. Normal operating conditions (at temperature)
3. Race conditions (temperatures exceed 215F)
and that oils are not just for lubrication, but also for cooling.
Hence the creation of multi-grade oils. What oil you use is likely dependent on how you drive, ambient conditions and age of your car.
I don't have any data on the effect of 60W on the internals of a Porsche, but, theoretically, unless your internals are at extreme temperatures (>215F), the viscosity is not what you would want for DD.
1. Startup...the lower the weight the better
2. Normal operating conditions (at temperature)
3. Race conditions (temperatures exceed 215F)
and that oils are not just for lubrication, but also for cooling.
Hence the creation of multi-grade oils. What oil you use is likely dependent on how you drive, ambient conditions and age of your car.
I don't have any data on the effect of 60W on the internals of a Porsche, but, theoretically, unless your internals are at extreme temperatures (>215F), the viscosity is not what you would want for DD.
that's all i could ever figure it could be. thanks.
So you are saying that no matter what ambient temperature we live in we all need 0W oil on startup? Im amazed the oil companies that make heavier weights stay in business !!! And what effect does engine wear play on this scenario, ie should we put the same weight oil in a car with 100K miles as a car with 1000 miles ??
So what weight do we think is good for a 70K miles and summer temps say in LA? Just curious as to what people think is best not trying to be funny.
Re the Slick 50 comment about does anyone use it? I believe there was a time that all US military vehicles used it! Also I remember a test where they drained the oil from 2 cars after one had been treated with Slick 50 and drove them around a test track, the one that hadnt been treated failed within a lap the other did many many laps.
Re the Slick 50 comment about does anyone use it? I believe there was a time that all US military vehicles used it! Also I remember a test where they drained the oil from 2 cars after one had been treated with Slick 50 and drove them around a test track, the one that hadnt been treated failed within a lap the other did many many laps.






